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Old 12-14-2011, 03:20 PM   #1
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Tyvek or Felt?


I'm going to be putting new hardi-board plank siding over my existing redwood siding on my house. My question is, should I use Tyvek or felt inbetween the old siding and the new?

I've heard that Tyvek sweats really bad and is not a good idea to use and that felt is the way to go, but I wanted to get some more opinions.

Thank you!

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Old 12-14-2011, 03:35 PM   #2
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Tyvek or Felt?


Quote:
I've heard that Tyvek sweats really bad and is not a good idea to use and that felt is the way to go,
There's going to be a lot of home builders sorry to hear that about Tyvek. Just think of the millions of new homes out there that are now suffering because Tyvek was used on them.

And you heard that where? On the Internet?

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Old 12-14-2011, 03:48 PM   #3
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Tyvek or Felt?


And James Hardee needs a flat surface to be nailed to. Better read the install instrutions before trying it.
Doing it that way would kick out the bottoms and leave gaps or leave an unsupported area in the middle.
I've never read about or ever seen tyvek sweat.
With tar paper it would form a double vaper barrier if there's also paper faced insulation in the wall.
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Old 12-14-2011, 03:50 PM   #4
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Tyvek or Felt?


All right Bud.... behave yourself.....

*sheesh*

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Old 12-14-2011, 03:52 PM   #5
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Tyvek or Felt?


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All right Bud.... behave yourself.....*sheesh*
Just sayin'.
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Old 12-14-2011, 03:52 PM   #6
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Tyvek or Felt?


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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
And James Hardee needs a flat surface to be nailed to.
But.... doesn't he get mad when you hammer nails in him?
That's gotta hurt......

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Old 12-14-2011, 04:48 PM   #7
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Tyvek or Felt?


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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
With tar paper it would form a double vaper barrier if there's also paper faced insulation in the wall.
Not to mention tar paper under the existing siding.
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Old 12-14-2011, 06:13 PM   #8
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Tyvek or Felt?


if your putting hardie on and you want your warrenty left intact against defect remove the existing siding.. if not you wont be covered it will come under improper installation if you ever try to claim anything

as for tyvek, its supposed to breath. its how moisture inside the wall cavity escapes.. you simply need to install a rain screen before the siding goes up.. remove the old stuff. install tyvek then vertical strapping nailed to the studs.. this creates an air space between the siding and the building so moisture can escape if not the siding will either flake or the paint will blister off
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Old 12-14-2011, 06:15 PM   #9
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Tyvek or Felt?


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Originally Posted by Bud Cline View Post
There's going to be a lot of home builders sorry to hear that about Tyvek. Just think of the millions of new homes out there that are now suffering because Tyvek was used on them.

And you heard that where? On the Internet?

Good point Bud! I figured Tyvek was fine because like you said above most new houses today have it.

My redwood siding is flat...see the pic below...there is tar paper under the existing redwood siding.
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Old 12-14-2011, 06:42 PM   #10
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Tyvek or Felt?


Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
And James Hardee needs a flat surface to be nailed to. Better read the install instrutions before trying it.
Doing it that way would kick out the bottoms and leave gaps or leave an unsupported area in the middle.
I've never read about or ever seen tyvek sweat.
With tar paper it would form a double vaper barrier if there's also paper faced insulation in the wall.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pyper View Post
Not to mention tar paper under the existing siding.
You guys might want to research the properties and characteristics of "tar paper". Vapor barrier is the last thing I would refer to asphalt saturated felt as.

http://bct.eco.umass.edu/publication...tion-barriers/

an excerpt from the article...
Basically, all Model codes agree on the need for a weather-resistant barrier paper (usually specified as #15 felt or Grade D Kraft paper) behind stucco, brick, stone and other porous veneers. The paper requirement is typically omitted for other types of siding when they’re installed over rated structural sheathing. Alone among the codes, BOCA, in its 1998 supplement, requires a layer of #15 felt over the sheathing regardless of the siding type. BOCA has also beefed up its flashing requirements, spelling out nine areas needing flashing, and getting rid of an earlier exception for “leakproof” caulking (apparently in recognition that no caulking is leakproof for long. (See BOCA 1405.3.6 and 1405.3.10) Though 15-pound felt is usually cited, all the codes allow for the substitution of “equivalent” materials, opening the door for plastic housewraps. To qualify as an equal, the housewrap must pass performance tests conducted by an independent lab and paid for by the manufacturer. The manufacturer submits the test data to the evaluation services of the various code bodies, which issue reports describing the material’s properties and stating which code performance requirements it meets. Assuming it meets the right criteria, the housewrap can then be used instead of the felt or building paper specified in the code.

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Last edited by loneframer; 12-14-2011 at 06:44 PM.
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