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-   -   Tile selection for shower floor (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/tile-selection-shower-floor-172377/)

John28 02-19-2013 11:16 AM

Tile selection for shower floor
 
I'm getting ready to place my final mud bed for my shower floor, and had the wife pick up tile so I could set the strainer height once at that point.

I'm just questioning the selection of tile for a shower floor?

They are 2X2 Glazed Porcelain, Roman Travertine.

Even though they are glazed they are rated equal or greater than a C.O.F. of .60 wet, which I'm guessing should be okay in 2X2, with the grout lines?

But question the sharp corners? The tiles are about 3/8in. thick on mesh 12X12 sheets, with really clean sharp square corners. I just thought a tile with rounded over corners would be a better choice, but not sure? Is there an issue with these tiles for a shower floor, and will you notice the sharp corners on your feet? I'm guessing the grout should take care of the sharp corners, but still question it? Thanks

kaschmid3 02-19-2013 11:30 AM

U should be fine as long ad it's not sharp if u can tub your hand across without feeling your fine if u cut your finger I'd pick another tile(ps I assume you did pitch your mud right)

JazMan 02-19-2013 03:25 PM

And I'll add by asking if you're doing a traditional deck mud floor with deck mud under and over the shower pan, or a surface membrane method with the special drain, like the Kerdi?

Jaz

John28 02-19-2013 04:55 PM

Traditional, pre slop mud bed, PVC liner, and Top mud bed. Thanks

John28 02-20-2013 08:10 AM

Also when setting the strainer height, all I ever read is to level it with a piece of your floor tile? But with thinset, this would put the strainer surface a bit below the tile surface.

Do you go this route or account for the thinset too? And if so, what is the thickness of the thinset going to be here? As they are 2X2 tiles, but the trowel used I'm guessing dictates the thickness of the thinset after pressing the tile in?Thanks

carpdad 02-20-2013 08:37 AM

If this applies to your case, the part of the drain assembly may have drain holes for water trapped under the mud floor but above the liner. Read the direction that comes with the drain, but I think I had to put some small gravel around this part of the drain. Don't take the mud right to the drain and block these holes.

JazMan 02-20-2013 11:53 AM

Oh it definitely applies to this method. :yes: Many people don't do the pre-slope, which I see John will do.:thumbsup: But most, (even so-called pros), don't protect the weep holes and I've yet to see anyone apply the silicone between the lower half and the membrane. When I mention it to plumbers they say huh?:censored:

Jaz

John28 02-20-2013 01:24 PM

When I installed the liner over the Pre slope, I placed a bead of 100% silicone to the liner bottom and lower flange only. And I did not put any silicone under the clamping ring. Did a 24 hour flood test that was no drop in level.

I know when mudding final top layer to not block weep holes. But my question was setting the strainer height? Only directions I see is to level it (thread the barrel in or out) so the top strainer surface is level with a piece of tile. But questioned if I should consider the thickness of thinset too? And if so, what would the thickness of thinset be here? Once mudded I can't adjust it, so need to know the correct method of setting the height?

JazMan 02-20-2013 04:01 PM

John,

I should have known that since you're here that means you know more than the average person and that you did the drain/membrane/silicone right, so far at least.:thumbsup: Use spacers or pea gravel to keep the weep holes clear when you get to that step.

I like to keep the strainer a hair lower than the tiles. So use your judgement, the thinset under those tiles will be minimal.

Jaz

John28 02-20-2013 04:32 PM

To be honest I didn't know anything about building a mud floor with pan liner. I just did a lot of research and reading and asking questions before proceeding. So far everything has gone well, very pleased with mud deck consistency, and slope, as this was a concern before starting, but I consider myself pretty handy, and figured I could do it, with some guidance?

As for the strainer height I guess just using a dry tile and setting it flush will work? Like you stated thinset is minimal here, which should put the surface slightly below the tile like you stated?

I have another question, as to my next step with my Hardie Backer, and couldn't seem to get a clear anwser? Hardie is installed per manufactures instructions, but still have to thinset gaps. I have no barrier behind this, as I'm going to waterproof it with Hydro Ban.

Hardie recommends 2 in. alkali tape and thinset for all gaps. And Hydro Ban requires no tape in voids under 1/8 in. Since I'll be thinsetting gaps first there will be no voids when I apply the Hydro Ban. My question? Is it a must to use the alkali tape when thin setting, before applying a waterproofing? My reason for asking, as stated Hydro Ban doesn't require tape, but like the idea of the anti-fracture tape in change of plains with the waterproofing but do not want to double tape and create high spots.

To make my question easier which method would you use?

1. Alkali tape and thinset all voids, then apply Hydro Ban with no anti-fracture tape?
2. Thinset all voids with no alkali tape, then apply Hydro Ban and antifracture tape to all seems over the thinset?
3. Alkali tape and thinset all voids, and Hydro Ban with antifracure tape too?

I'm guessing 1. and 3. are both approved methods, but liked the idea of no. 2, just wasn't sure of skipping the alkali tape, as recommended. As stated trying to avoid double taping, and if you must use the alkali tape, I'll go with no. 1 Thanks

JazMan 02-20-2013 06:09 PM

I agree and think you should go with #1. I also think #2 is fine with Laticrete, but #1 is safer. Be sure to use a 6" flexible (not stiff) knife to apply the thinset.

Jaz

John28 02-21-2013 04:38 PM

Thanks for the advice and anwsers, another question I overlooked with the tile, was trowel size?

I'll be setting 2X2 mosiac on 12X12 mesh sheets on the floor, and probably 6X6 on the walls,with Versabond. Have read all different size trowels from 1/4x3/16 V nothch to 1/4x5/16 v notch and even 1/4x1/4 square notch for the 2X2?

Keep in mind the 2X2 floor tiles are about 3/8in. thick, if this matters with trowel size? Not sure how thick the wall tiles are, as I have to get them yet?

The trowel size chart I got off the web shows

2x2 tiles 1/4X3/16 V Notch
6x6 tiles 1/4x3/8 Sq. notch

Sound right? as I have to buy them yet, so might as well get it right, Thanks

kaschmid3 02-21-2013 06:51 PM

I would not recommend v notch unless using glue( which if u r tiling floor it shouldn't be)yeah 1/4 by 1/4 square notch for floor tiles and 1/4 by 3/8 for wall 6x 6 will be fine ( I recommend the cushion handle trust mr after hrs of tiling with dry hands will be worth the extra 10 dollars

JazMan 02-21-2013 06:52 PM

Yes both of those will work fine. But generally V's are for mastic when setting tiles. I've done it hundreds of times though. The preferred for 2x2 is probably about 3/16" square notch if you can find one. That should work well since your tiles are pretty thick. If they were thinner I'd say 1/8" square.

But also remember the it's not a science and depends on the type of thinset, how you mixed it and how you hold the trowel, etc.

Jaz

John28 02-26-2013 04:32 PM

Thanks, haven't had time yet to set floor tile, but wondered if I'd be better off setting them individually or with the mesh?

The gaps seem pretty good, and was hoping to set the whole sheet, but wasn't sure which way would produce a flatter surface? And does the mesh take away from coverage for a good bond? Just would seem more of a hassel setting them individually and spacing, if needed to do so?

I know V notches are not recommended for floors, but my thinking is maybe a deep V notch and lightlly butter the whole back of the sheet, might produce the flatest surface, with good coverage? Thanks


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