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-   -   they poured the back foundation wall to the wrong height. Now..... (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/they-poured-back-foundation-wall-wrong-height-now-47480/)

CumminsTruck 06-25-2009 04:52 PM

they poured the back foundation wall to the wrong height. Now.....
 
Im waiting to hear how they are going to fix it.

New construction foundation with a walkout (daylight) basement.

For whatever reason they made top of rear foundation wall height even with the footings, so essentially its 4" too low.

Is there a proper way to fix this? Just pouring another 4" of crete on top of whats existing seems weak to me.

any suggestions as to what I should want to hear from the foundation guy tomorrow?

jomama45 06-25-2009 06:41 PM

Maybe they plan on laying half course solid concrete block on the wall yet? How far are the anchor bolts sticking up out of the poured wall? Whatever the solution, I highly doubt they plan on forming & pouring a 4 inch curb on the wall. More than likely, if they poured to the top of there 48 inch high forms, the footing was dug a course too low by the excavator. Whatever they do, just don't let the carpenter lay down 3 green sill plates to make up for this! :no:

Scuba_Dave 06-25-2009 08:49 PM

Even with what footings? Sides, front?
Any pictures?

CumminsTruck 06-26-2009 10:29 AM

even with the basement footings for the front wall and the ones in the middle of the floor that the collums will sit on.


Anchor bolts are sticking up only enough for sillplate.:(

Im meeting him up there at 2 to discuss, illl grab some pictures.

hayewe farm 06-26-2009 06:29 PM

Didn't you say it's a walk out?

SNC 06-27-2009 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CumminsTruck (Post 293297)
even with the basement footings for the front wall and the ones in the middle of the floor that the collums will sit on.


Anchor bolts are sticking up only enough for sillplate.:(

Im meeting him up there at 2 to discuss, illl grab some pictures.

You can use the existing anchor bolts AND drill more holes for longer bolts and epoxy those new ones in and use 3 more plates.
I would not like the idea of just 4 more inches of concrete on top. Could be kind of fragile. Thats called a cold joint

stadry 06-28-2009 07:39 AM

the existing anchor bolts'll act as reinforcement,,, drilling & anchoring more bolts is an accepted method PROVIDED the holes're blown out of dust/swarf/etc w/clean DRY air,,, prior to placing the new conc ' riser ', the existing surface should be ' bushed ' to remove any conc ' sheen ' & coated w/bonding epoxy,,, this complies w/icri & aci specs/methods,,, i'd do it at my house, too ! :thumbup:


there's a difference 'tween plans & as-built's
:yes:

jomama45 06-28-2009 09:04 AM

No offense, that just seems like a complicated way to solve the problem, especially on a NEW construction! I'm sure the contractor has an easier shortcut they were planning on taking.

stadry 06-28-2009 09:17 AM

none taken, jo - that's just an approv'd method & the only 1 i'd use on MY house,,, laying a 4" course of cmu's also another but i wouldn't use it,,, IF the contractor can present an approved alternative AND if the arch/eng agrees, that's fine, too.

SNC 06-28-2009 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jomama45 (Post 294046)
No offense, that just seems like a complicated way to solve the problem, especially on a NEW construction! I'm sure the contractor has an easier shortcut they were planning on taking.

Its really quite a simple prossese

jomama45 06-28-2009 12:21 PM

I would have no reservations about the epoxy or concrete curb added, only saying that's ALOT of work compared to doing it right the first time. Probably 1/2 a day of labor & a few hundred in extra materials. To put things in prospective, the bigger foundation contractors around here will set forms & pour an average house wall in an 8 hour day. I would just be concerned as the HO that they are planning a lot easier shortcut, like 3 extra sill plates.:no:

stadry 06-28-2009 12:38 PM

we don't have any disagreement on that :wink:

the carpenter 06-28-2009 10:30 PM

Yup, they screwed up. But how would tripling up the sill plate with treated lumber be against codes? Bearing walls are always poured up against with your basement slab so why would a walkout wall be any different? You wouldn't want to fill right up against the plates on the outside if thats an issue.

We always used to pour the top of our frost walls level with our rear footings until we saw someone leaving theirs 4" higher and thought that that was a great idea. Maybe this is what they always do.....probably not though.

jomama45 06-28-2009 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the carpenter (Post 294432)
Yup, they screwed up. But how would tripling up the sill plate with treated lumber be against codes? Bearing walls are always poured up against with your basement slab so why would a walkout wall be any different? You wouldn't want to fill right up against the plates on the outside if thats an issue.

A good mason would be putting 1/2 course block down for you first, so you didn't have treated wood where it would eventually fail. Anyways, what if there happens to be a patio door in the walkout (like merely every walkout has), do you hold the patio down 4" or 5" too?

We always used to pour the top of our frost walls level with our rear footings until we saw someone leaving theirs 4" higher and thought that that was a great idea. Maybe this is what they always do.....probably not though.

It's definatly better to keep the wood up the 4" minimum.

the carpenter 06-30-2009 12:24 AM

Agreed, it's better.
Regarding the patio door, we always just used to stop the framing at the doors and pour the slab right out under the doors, then install the doors on top of the slab.

Can't wait to see what the contractor said CumminsTruck


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