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discojv 01-24-2009 02:34 PM

Temporary wall support question
 
I will be removing 23’ of brick/block exterior wall, replacing it with a wood framed LB wall (to allow various access points to new addition). Inside the house, I’ve installed a temporary wall to take the load of the exterior wall once removed. The ‘load’ in this case is an attic space and roof…not second story livable space. The temporary wall consists of a double 2x6 header, and jack post every 4’, sitting on a double 2x bottom plate. The temporary wall sits 1.5’ from interior of existing LB wall, and in parallel.

The existing situation is this - the ceiling joist and rafter meet on top of the block/brick wall, are nailed together and toe-nailed into the top plate (normal stuff). Both, ceiling joist and rafter bear downward load on the exterior block/brick wall at that meeting point (normal stuff). Once the LB wall is removed, downward load shifts 1.5’ back to my temporary wall. Along with that, the nailed ceiling-joist/rafter connection has lost its support (block/brick wall) and the nailed connection itself becomes stressed/loaded by the rafters and everything they support (sheathing and roofing).

Question: Does additional temporary support need to extend from top of the temporary wall (top of double 2x6) through the attic, and to the rafters so that the nailed ceiling joist/rafter connection doesn’t take load that it cannot handle? If so, how is this typically done...just some 2x supports from ceiling joist to rafter placed directly above temporary wall?

Aggie67 01-25-2009 09:05 AM

Sounds like a neat project, but somewhere along the line you should contact a PE. Masonry walls can also act as shear walls, and not knowing anything other than what you posted, I worry that what you put in will be designed properly. And I've braced multiple story structures before, it's never just a vertical bracing scheme. There are lateral bracing elements, especially with roofs.

buletbob 01-25-2009 09:54 AM

Be fore you remove the block wall get a 2x and install it in the attic on top of the ceiling beams, them push it out wards until it hits the roof rafters. make sure the seams are spliced on each ceiling joist. then toe nail this into the joist and rafters. this will cut down on the stress on the nails. Good luck BOB.

discojv 01-25-2009 11:19 AM

1 Attachment(s)
buletbob - Something like this?

buletbob 01-25-2009 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by discojv (Post 218813)
buletbob - Something like this?

Yes exactly.:thumbsup: BOB

discojv 01-25-2009 02:47 PM

That makes very good sense. Thanks for the thoughts/advice.

buletbob 01-25-2009 03:05 PM

Good luck And now http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/images/smilies/grd.gif BOB

Wildie 01-25-2009 07:23 PM

I would suggest that the new wall would be built in 4, 6 foot sections. Remove 6 feet of blocks, slip in a new 6 foot section. Remove another 6 feet of block, and so on! Would require a few extra studs, but only a short section of the roof weight would be partially, unsupported for a short period of time! Borrowing Bob's idea, a 2X12 placed on edge between the rafter and the top of the joist, during the unsupported period, would give extra insurance. The actual size of the plank, would depend on the roof pitch!


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