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Old 02-19-2008, 02:53 PM   #1
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Tapcon question


Can you use tapcon screws to secure framing to the basement concrete floor? I keep seeing it being used for outlet boxes and other items to the foundation. If they are up to code, does anyone know many need to be in each wall? Say an 8 foot section? I can't find this code guideline anywhere!

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Old 02-19-2008, 03:02 PM   #2
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The Basic Code, for structural walls, stipulates sole plate to joist, or blocking (at structural areas) every 16" OC.
I suggest attaching one every framed bay, or every 16" OC, or more, as needed, just to keep it within building code parameters.
However, you are installing a non-structural frame. In affect, your are building "partition" walls, or, non-load bearing walls.
So that is up to your local inspectional offices. You could go ahead and follow the code for structural walls to not worry about what they will say.
You can use tapcons. Be sure that they are at least 2-1/2" to 3" in length.

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Last edited by AtlanticWBConst.; 02-19-2008 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 02-19-2008, 03:12 PM   #3
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Thanks for the help, and yes none of them are load bearing. I am glad I can just do it this way since I don't have access to a nailer.


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Old 02-19-2008, 03:36 PM   #4
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Tapcons, better than Hilti-Nails by far
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Old 02-19-2008, 04:04 PM   #5
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just make sure you are using a hammerdrill and the recommended drillbit size, to big and they wont grab anything, to small and you'll snap off the heads of your tapcons
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Old 02-19-2008, 04:10 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by rocklyr View Post
just make sure you are using a hammerdrill and the recommended drillbit size, to big and they wont grab anything, to small and you'll snap off the heads of your tapcons
Oh yes, what he said 100% (Not that I have not done it )
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Old 02-19-2008, 09:40 PM   #7
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I tried to use these in my basement but didn't have a hammer drill...Couldn't get through the concrete. Used concrete nails and liquid nails.
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Old 02-19-2008, 10:12 PM   #8
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just make sure you are using a hammerdrill and the recommended drillbit size, to big and they wont grab anything, to small and you'll snap off the heads of your tapcons
That is why I never took a liking to them, the holes must be perfect. Work great with new bit in cinder block, but a few holes in cured concrete and the bit will begin to drift enough to become a PITA.

For my money, a 1/4" hole and a box of Rawl split/deformed shank pins. And hope you never have to pull them out.
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Old 02-19-2008, 11:08 PM   #9
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That is why I never took a liking to them, the holes must be perfect. Work great with new bit in cinder block, but a few holes in cured concrete and the bit will begin to drift enough to become a PITA.

For my money, a 1/4" hole and a box of Rawl split/deformed shank pins. And hope you never have to pull them out.
Ive never had a drillbit drift and regularly can install a box of 100 w/ the one drillbit that comes in the box,although harder concrete can take the edge off the bit and it doesn't drill near as fast as the first one. A good fast hammerdrill, I swear by my dewalt 18 volt, can make all the difference in the world
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Old 02-20-2008, 09:45 AM   #10
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Oh yes, what he said 100% (Not that I have not done it )

Oh yes, yes, definitely 100%, and I have done a lot of it.
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Old 02-20-2008, 10:06 AM   #11
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For non-bearing walls, what diameter should I use and is there a minimum req. by code?

Thanks for all the tips, I didn't know I needed to use a hammer drill! Would an 18volt cordless do the job?
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Old 02-20-2008, 01:33 PM   #12
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I always use a 1/4" shank tapcon(the larger size) they dont twist off as easy, Its not impossible to drill the holes w/out a hammerdrill but it will take FOREVER I use an 18 volt cordless dewalt w/ a hammer option and it works great
as far as code it would be best to ask a code enforcement officer what he or she wants to see that way there are no surprises

Last edited by rocklyr; 02-20-2008 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 02-20-2008, 02:21 PM   #13
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This is the first project I have ever done using code guidelines and its been a HUGE pain in the you know what to find out what to follow. The city gave me some sheet on some very basic things. Tapcon screws of course were not mentioned. They want me to stud-out the walls and get to the point of drywall before they do the first inspection. Do some cities just not have many codes of their own? I guess nationally Tapcon screws are ok for code in the US? Is there a guideline as to how many feet between each is required?

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Old 03-04-2008, 09:50 AM   #14
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Funny this thread should come up, I've been having some problems with tapcons, hopefully someone here has some clues.

I've been trying to secure some walls to the floor and a poured wall, but they keep twisting off, even when it doesn't seem like there's much pressure on it as I'm running it in. I've been using the bit that comes with the tapcon, I've been drilling it much deeper than the length of the screw, and am making sure the hole is absolutely clean before running it in. I've also tried with 3 different other brands of bit, including Bosch, all appropriately sized of course. No matter what I do, they sheer off -- running them in smooth and slow, etc. Any thoughts? I've gone through maybe a dozen of them, only getting a couple in solid.
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Old 03-04-2008, 09:53 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by csharp View Post
Funny this thread should come up, I've been having some problems with tapcons, hopefully someone here has some clues.

I've been trying to secure some walls to the floor and a poured wall, but they keep twisting off, even when it doesn't seem like there's much pressure on it as I'm running it in. I've been using the bit that comes with the tapcon, I've been drilling it much deeper than the length of the screw, and am making sure the hole is absolutely clean before running it in. I've also tried with 3 different other brands of bit, including Bosch, all appropriately sized of course. No matter what I do, they sheer off -- running them in smooth and slow, etc. Any thoughts? I've gone through maybe a dozen of them, only getting a couple in solid.
I can't say why they twist off, but I will add in that I didn't go that route. I went with 3" masonary nails and a small pilot hole. I drilled into the concrete a touch smaller then the nail and smacked them in with a large hammer. It worked out pretty well!

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