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Old 09-22-2008, 08:01 AM   #1
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Support posts for beam


I've got a triple 1 3/4" x 11 7/8" LVL beam that spans 10' 5". This will be tucked into the ceiling and used to remove a bearing wall so that I give open up a sunroom.
Will a double 2x6 support this or should I step it up to a double 5 1/4" lvl?

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Old 09-27-2008, 11:52 AM   #2
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Support posts for beam


Dawn breaks on Marblehead.
It just occurred to me that I could take an 80 yr old 4x8 sill plate that I removed from this project and use it to support this beam. It's much tighter grain than what we have today with new lumber. I did let it get weathered for a couple weeks so hopefully it will dry straight.

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Old 09-27-2008, 01:06 PM   #3
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Support posts for beam


A double 2x6 or your piece of 4x8 will work just fine to support an LVL spanning that distance. In the interest of keeping consistent dimensions with any new studs or framing in the wall, I'd opt for the double 2x6.

Don't forget to solid block under the trimmer studs beneath the floor (above the beam) to take the point load down to the beam.
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Old 09-27-2008, 01:23 PM   #4
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you have a triple 1 3/4 x 11 7/8 LVL spanning 10' 5" there must be some load that this beam is going to support, like a second story? What I have always done with beams and girders is run the post's down to the foundation sill plate if wood or to the top of foundation if using a steel lally column custom ordered for the length I need. As THEKCTERMITE stated make sure you solid block the floor cavity under the post, I would suggest using the cut offs from the LVL's. rip them down to the same width as the existing floor beams and install them under your post's. this way they will not shrink down when dried.
The next thing I would ask where are these post's going to sit???? are they going to rest on top of a foundation, basement girder??? or center span of a floor joist?? the latter would have to be posted below to a footing. BOB
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Old 09-27-2008, 04:34 PM   #5
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Support posts for beam


Thanks. I hated the idea of wasting the old sill since it was in perfect condition. It isn't PT so I couldn't reuse it after removing it to get to the top of the block foundation so that I could fill it.
The load on this beam is a bearing wall, small portion of roof, and a point load nearly in the center. I'm going with an open floor plan on the first floor and a double 14" LVL will be hung off of this beam. I thought the beam was under-structured, the building inspector said it was overkill but the spec report says that's what it needs to be.
I'm running the post right down to the sill plate on the corner of the foundation since I don't have the floor structured yet.

Edit: Do I need a post cap for this or will toe nailing be enough?
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Old 09-27-2008, 06:49 PM   #6
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If your located in a wind zone you will have to use some type of metal teco or strapping to fasten this to the header and foundation.Good luck BOB
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Old 10-05-2008, 08:11 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buletbob View Post
What I have always done with beams and girders is run the post's down to the foundation sill plate if wood ... As THEKCTERMITE stated make sure you solid block the floor cavity under the post, I would suggest using the cut offs from the LVL's. rip them down to the same width as the existing floor beams and install them under your post's. this way they will not shrink down when dried.
One last question for now, Are you saying run the post to the sill plate or make sure that the load is transferred to the sill plate through the joist framing?
Since this is an inside corner which defines the sunroom, it would be easier to frame the floor, add some blocking where needed, and then install the post & beam. Does it matter one way or the other?
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Old 10-05-2008, 10:55 AM   #8
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Support posts for beam


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One last question for now, Are you saying run the post to the sill plate or make sure that the load is transferred to the sill plate through the joist framing?
You don't have to run the post continuous down to the sill plate...It can sit on the bottom plate of the wall. But, you must must must install blocking directly underneath the post so its load is transferred to the foundation/mudsill. If there's a joist under it, just add some blocking to increase the joist's width under the post.

I'd do if first before there's load on the post that could result in wood settlement underneath it. Otherwise cut the blocks super tight and beat them in place.
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Old 10-05-2008, 11:20 AM   #9
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Thanks KC, I'll build the post into the wall assemble as if it were another stud and add the LVL blocking below the post, that makes it easy. I lost a couple nights sleep as I was trying to work threw how to build the floor around the post.

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