DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   Building & Construction (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/)
-   -   Support for Header (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/support-header-88521/)

Shakemsam 12-03-2010 08:38 PM

Support for Header
 
Hello all,

I need some advice concerning an opening where I am building a header to hang a multi-folding door for a 6' wide opening in a non-load bearing wall. The door will be used as an occasional room divider and made up of 3) 2' bi-fold doors that will open and close from one end of the wall only. One end of the header will be supported by typical King and Jack studs. The other end of the header will but up to an exterior load bearing wall header above a 6' patio door.
I have 2 options in mind.....

1) use a Simpson Header Hanger Bracket which I cannot seem to find locally

2) Install the header under the top plate and use what is essentially a cripple stud under the end of the header, face nailed to the patio door header.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

jlhaslip 12-03-2010 08:59 PM

If it truly a non-load bearing situation, you would not need any header. Just frame it down to the Rough Opening size.

Can you provide more detail about the room and the framing you have to work with.

Octopus 12-03-2010 10:26 PM

I agree. Why not just fabricate your own header. The last cripple stud would make for a good attachment point into the existing exterior header.

If you have 8 ' ceiling this header would be about 14 inches deep or so.

Build a mini wall. Top and bottom plate and a few mini studs. Will be plenty strong to hang hollow core bi-folds from especially once the drywall is hung on both sides.

Is the new header running with or agaist the ceiling or floor joists?

Shakemsam 12-03-2010 10:41 PM

The rooms involved are a bedroom and an old bathroom. I removed the wall separating the two, creating an L-shaped bedroom. The L portion is basically now an extension of a hallway that led to the old bathroom if that makes any sense. I installed a 6' sliding patio door with a 2x12 header with double jacks in the back exterior wall. I want to use the divider wall to allow access to the patio door while blocking the view into the bedroom as you walk through. The portion of the wall removed was 2x4 framing, single top and bottom plate. There is a full attic above that has been finished for 2 small bedrooms with knee walls. There is a load bearing wall that runs parallel to the non- bearing wall the full length of the house just 3 feet away which creates the other side of the hallway. I just want to make sure that my framing will support the weight of the bi-fold doors.
The header will run against (perpendicular) to the ceiling joists.

Thanks again

mrgins 12-04-2010 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shakemsam (Post 545049)
The rooms involved are a bedroom and an old bathroom. I removed the wall separating the two, creating an L-shaped bedroom. The L portion is basically now an extension of a hallway that led to the old bathroom if that makes any sense. I installed a 6' sliding patio door with a 2x12 header with double jacks in the back exterior wall. I want to use the divider wall to allow access to the patio door while blocking the view into the bedroom as you walk through. The portion of the wall removed was 2x4 framing, single top and bottom plate. There is a full attic above that has been finished for 2 small bedrooms with knee walls. There is a load bearing wall that runs parallel to the non- bearing wall the full length of the house just 3 feet away which creates the other side of the hallway. I just want to make sure that my framing will support the weight of the bi-fold doors.
The header will run against (perpendicular) to the ceiling joists.

Thanks again

Phew! I couldn't digest all that, but I agree that a simply framed 2x4 header would work.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:41 AM.