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Old 12-25-2009, 09:40 PM   #1
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Suggestions on rebuilding load bearing wall


This is a hard one to describe, so I will try to keep it to the facts - not why the previous owner did the damage.

I have an old sill joist that is no longer on the edge of the basement (basement was extended out 8 feet)

So I have this joist 2x8" running east/west.
Then there are standard spaced floor joists running from the south side and north side. When I had the house inspected it was put on my list of things to correct. I was told me options were to double/triple up the existing 2x8 to make it sturdy, or replace the wall that was removed from below.

It happens that I want a wall where it was removed (furnace room)

So do I build the wall on the floor and try to beat/bang it in place?
I was told I need to do it this way in order to avoid toe nailing all of the studs.
Or just build the wall as I go?
I doubt the old cement sill on the floor is still level..

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Old 12-25-2009, 09:49 PM   #2
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Suggestions on rebuilding load bearing wall


I think I'd 'stick build' it.--Building it in place will allow you to cut the studs to the length needed.

You are right to assume that the floor is going to be uneven. Toe nailing is not the end of the world.

It's easy for me to say-HaHa-I've got a nail gun! Seriously even hand nailing one wall is not to big of a job.


Have fun-be safe --MIKE--

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Old 12-25-2009, 10:00 PM   #3
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I could borrow the proper nail gun.
But this is only going to be about 4 studs total.

I was planning on treated lumber for the bottom.
Then tapcons installed with my rotary hammer.

When the supporting brick wall was removed, 2 steel support pipes were added, I am going to leave those in place.
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Old 12-25-2009, 10:11 PM   #4
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Suggestions on rebuilding load bearing wall


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I could borrow the proper nail gun.
But this is only going to be about 4 studs total.
Borrow a nail gun for four studs? C'mon, get the ol hammer out. Toe-nailing is good for you. It wasn't that long ago when I used to do a lot of toenailing by hand, every time we set trusses. You are going to cutting the studs for a tight fit anyway. Tap each one into place, put your foot on the opposite side of the stud as a doorstop, and drive your nails. Pound a couple more in from the other side and move on. You can be done before you even drag a compressor down the stairs.
Mike Hawkins
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Old 12-25-2009, 10:24 PM   #5
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Ha! I said I could...

What about the treated lumber and tapcons for the bottom plate?
Then I would nail another plate into this?
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Old 12-25-2009, 10:37 PM   #6
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Dont forget that any nail driven in the pressure treated wood should be heavy galvanized or stainless steel nail.
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Old 12-26-2009, 06:47 AM   #7
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Definitely use treated bottom plate. Tapcons are fine--MIKE--I've never used galvanized nails on interior framing into treated plates--Never had a problem?????????????? Learn something new every day-Mike-
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Old 12-26-2009, 08:18 AM   #8
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So do I build the wall on the floor and try to beat/bang it in place?
I was told I need to do it this way in order to avoid toe nailing all of the studs.
.
OMG!!!Who told you that? Sounds like a 90 year old grandma. It amazes me how people are scared or want to avoid teonaling a stud. Even some pros out there will try to avoid it. I've been toenailing studs for over 25 years. It's not rocket science and there's nothing to it even the first time you do it. Any kid can toenail a stud.
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Old 12-26-2009, 12:39 PM   #9
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"So I have this joist 2x8" running east/west.
Then there are standard spaced floor joists running from the south side and north side." ---------- I would fix this ASAP. If supporting one floor, roof and ceiling, 2x4 studs at 16"o.c. are required. If supporting 2 floors, roof and ceiling, 3x4's OR 2x6's at 16" are required per code. Here is some help on toe-nailing: http://books.google.com/books?id=_CP...age&q=&f=false

Hope this helps..... Don't feel bad, we all started sometime, well, most of us.

Be safe, Gary
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Old 12-26-2009, 02:32 PM   #10
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I have cleared out the old brick and mortar leftovers to provide a flat surface for the treated 2x4's
I decided to round the corner and build a complete wall



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Old 12-26-2009, 02:35 PM   #11
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These are photos of the joist I am going to add support.
Note the area with 3 joists sistered together. this is butted to a single joist. This should have been sistered also, but instead I am going to build a load bearing wall under it.




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Old 12-27-2009, 12:30 PM   #12
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Thanks! I let my Dad know he is a really a Grandma...

This was actually due to my lack of coordination with a hammer.
I typically drill and screw everything I can.

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OMG!!!Who told you that? Sounds like a 90 year old grandma. It amazes me how people are scared or want to avoid teonaling a stud. Even some pros out there will try to avoid it. I've been toenailing studs for over 25 years. It's not rocket science and there's nothing to it even the first time you do it. Any kid can toenail a stud.
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Old 12-27-2009, 01:04 PM   #13
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Thanks! I let my Dad know he is a really a Grandma...

This was actually due to my lack of coordination with a hammer.
I typically drill and screw everything I can.
No offense to your dad, but tell him that there's nothing to it when toenailing. If you lack coordination with a hammer there's really no difference between toenaling and facenailing, it's all in your wrist. You have four studs to nail, it will be fun.
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Old 12-27-2009, 01:29 PM   #14
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If he was doing it he would toe nail.
Since I am doing it he suggested that I take steps to avoid toe nailing...

Either way, I need to buy some studs and nails and see how it turns out!

Thanks
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Old 12-28-2009, 05:33 PM   #15
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I starting putting the tapcons in... and my only bit broke... so I got them started anyway.



And some pics of putting in spacers on the top to clear the gas lines




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