Suggestions on possible sump pump installation

theedudenator

I have an original basement in a 1947 house. It never had a sump pump in it.
In 2001 the house was added-on 8 foot out around the original foundation.
So there is 8 foot out of new poured basement.
this is 3-4" lower then the original basement.
This also has NO sump pump or pit.

In certain rain conditions (lots of rain quickly) I get water in the new section.
Looks like it is coming in from the wall/floor intersection.
I am guessing the water table has risen.
This happened once last year and now once this year.

I have all gutters going into drain tile and running about an acre out in the yard.

I was thinking of starting with a sump pit and pump in a corner of the basement - seeing if this fixes the problem.
Then I would need to look at a perimeter drain?

theedudenator

No one has done this before?

itsreallyconc

we do it every week i'd install a proper trench drain leading to the sump to manage the wtr,,, no apron store pumps, either,,, use the m53 by zoeller

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if you hear it from a guy in the apron store, be VERY suspicious the mtl/method will work,,, when it time to build something together, they won't answer phones NOR help
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theedudenator

I was going to start with the pit, then add the drain lines if I need them.

concretemasonry

Gutter should never be run into perforated drain tile since the gutter watter can flush in debris and plug the drain tile. Gutters should be drained separately using solid, unperforated pipe (I was assuming you had the common perforated drain tile). For transporting water away, solid pvc is preferable because of less friction and elimination of low spots. - The idea is to get the water away and not spread it around the house.

Dick

itsreallyconc

saw that, dick, but thought he meant leader drains

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theedudenator

I am not using this for the gutters - where did that come from?

I already have the gutters tied into drain pipe 20' out from the house underground.

This is just for the water table water on the freak storms.
happened once last year and once again this year.

theedudenator

I ended up doing some digging looking for drainage tile. I have found nothing.

I do have 4" of gravel under the basement slab.

Based on this do I need to install the perimeter pipe? Or will this gravel drain ok? Again my house is on a hill, all outside drainage issues have been corrected. I only get water when the water table rises high enough. Once or twice a year. All of this is a recent problem. It is possible I damaged or collapsed a daylight drain...

If I should install the perimeter drain do I need 4" size?
Can I run 3" size instead? Based on long run of pipe, I want to keep the slope correct and not have to bring the pipe down to the bottom of the footer. With the combination of full gravel, 3" pipe and not a large need for the system, I thought I can get away with this.

If it matters, I dug to the side of the footer on the inside and outside of the house. Outside was dry, inside has water sitting in the gravel.
I wonder if there was not some sort of exit point for the inside water that is now blocked?

theedudenator

I picked up the following items:

Zoeller N53 Sump Pump

The only brand my local stores carry is Parts2O
Their vertical float switch, check valve and sump basin.
Any comments on this brand of equipment?

The float switch is a piggy back plug. Is this the proper way to wire the pump/switch?
I will be running a dedicated 15amp line to the sump pit.
Does this need to be GFI?


The sump basin is smooth tapered plastic. There are no holes for water to drain in. There is one large hole for the 4" drain tile.
I would have prefered to make my own 4" holes, but this is all I could find.
I am guessing I will be drilling drain holes in the bottom?

itsreallyconc

M 53, NOT N http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CF8Q8wIwAQ - the switch is mounted on stainless steel guides

sumps come w/no holes allowing water into them - get out your 3/4" spade wood bit & drill in 50 - 60 holes incl the btm

zoeller is the standard of the bsmt wtrproofing trade - 15a is fine w/o gfci UNLESS the pump is exterior

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theedudenator

I go the N version because I did not want the switch directly on the pump.

So I need to get a float switch for it.

itsreallyconc

that's your choice - the industry knows float switches are generally less reliable

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stevatchis

Can sump pump drain be routed from basement drain to the exterior perimeter drain?

itsreallyconc

yes, it can - should it OR to what advantage would that be ? no f'n idea - we're pro's & we haven't yet in 39yrs but its your home so do as you wish

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theedudenator

I rented a cement saw and cut the concrete around the perimeter of the basement.

Also cut out a square for the sump pit.

Also cut a trench for a future basement drain to go to the sump pit.

Need to rent a jackhammer to know bust all this scored concrete out!

Looks like I have 4+ inches of gravel under my basement floor, which is probably a good thing.