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-   -   Subfloor Surgery... look ok? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/subfloor-surgery-look-ok-167839/)

juryduty 12-31-2012 02:32 AM

Subfloor Surgery... look ok?
 
Happy New Year,
I am putting a new floor in my kitchen and ripped up the particleboard put down by the douchebag termite guy years ago. It looks like over by my sliding glass door I have some rot/wetness issues along the edge of the subfloor where it is "sandwiched" between the base plate of the wall (exterior wall) and the sill plate bolted to the foundation.

Problem is, it seems the base plate is putting a really heavy load on the subfloor, like it is load bearing. There is a loose piece there from a prior repair, and I can't even pull it out there is so much pressure.

What I'd "like" to do is take my sawzall and just cut the subfloor as close as I can to the base plate, then nail a 2x4 ledger along the plate, and use that to hang short joists for the replacement plywood. Make sense? Pictures below. The house has 1.128" plywood on top of 48" OC joists.

Looking for a recommendation on how to fix or if this looks good.. what would you do?

http://s2.postimage.org/fs37150a1/20...0_00_11_09.jpg


http://s2.postimage.org/m727xt6zt/20...0_00_11_24.jpg

Thanks in advance!

joecaption 12-31-2012 08:59 AM

Patch all you want but that's going to fix that problum.
The door was installed wrong and will still leak.

Let me make a guess, there's a deck, stoop steps, something that's even or close to it on the other side of that door.

The best way will involve removing that door and most likly some of the siding to totaly water proof the opening and outside wall before the door goes in.
http://jambsill.com/

Using an ossilating saw or a Toe Kick saw will give you a much tighter cut then a sawsall.
Post a picture of the outside of that door opening.
Most often the underside of the threshold on the outside is also not done right so it's not fully sealed or supported.
If someone installed any form of a 2X under the threshold it will leak 100% of the time. It sticks out to far and will act like a funnel to direct water under the threshold. Using 1X vinyl lumber works much better.

juryduty 12-31-2012 03:28 PM

Thanks for the answers. Interesting. I have attached a few pictures of the exterior side of the sliding door. You are right, there is a stoop there. Should I also caulk around where the stoop meets the house?

It looks like the caulking around the top part of the flashing has broken and the flashing is lifting from the stucco, that seems like an easy fix to stop some of the water. My plan for now is to caulk the crap out of the whole thing and do the "hose test"... not ready to replace the whole door yet!

http://s9.postimage.org/hj57r3g7j/20...1_12_56_21.jpghttp://s9.postimage.org/tz1xku9jj/20...1_12_56_26.jpghttp://s9.postimage.org/xwp7a8wcv/20...1_12_56_41.jpghttp://s9.postimage.org/j20lw2mrz/20...1_12_57_15.jpg

joecaption 12-31-2012 05:06 PM

I'd get rid of whatever that is right up againt the wall. It's causing splash back.
Not sure why that opening for the door was not built with a resessed area so water would not get in behind the vinyl trim. What should have been done is caulking should have been used behind the trim before the door went in. to fill the whole void.
Now about the best you can do is caulk around the outside of the trim.
Do not just blob it on, you only need to use enough to fill the gap. It does no good to have it all over the trim or wall.
As much as I hate using the stuff this is one caulking that will flex the most.
It also comes in white.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ec...kuId=202897457


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