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Old 01-11-2011, 10:56 PM   #16
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Sub-Floor Decking


Check with your local B.D. on the conditioned crawl after rigid foam board on the walls for exhaust venting and radon; http://www2.iccsafe.org/cs/committee...E_06_64_07.pdf

http://energy.cr.usgs.gov/radon/rnus.html
http://www2.iccsafe.org/cs/committee...E_06_64_07.pdf
http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...d%20in%20walls
http://www.rd.com/57548/article57548.html

Gary

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Old 01-12-2011, 07:48 AM   #17
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Gary,

I did make a trip to the county. Talked to them about the project. Received a copy of NC Residential Code Section 409 Closed Crawl Spaces. Looks similar to what you attached.

Thanks.
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Old 01-13-2011, 09:39 PM   #18
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Glad we could help! Later....

Gary
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Old 02-17-2011, 09:02 AM   #19
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Sub-Floor Decking


It's warming up and I need to get started on this project.

What would be the best way to cut a 45 degree kerf in the underside of the log? Keep in mind that there are end logs that hang out over the horizontal wall logs.

I'm guessing a circular saw? Considering the way the plate tilts (motor interference), would a worm drive circular saw be the correct tool?
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Old 02-17-2011, 11:03 AM   #20
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Haven't really read the entire thread, but I'd cut a slot for flashing at a 45* angle into the bottom of the log. Recip saw or oscillating saw or skilsaw would work. Stick a strip of ice and water shield along the wall to cover the t&g ends and the rim joist. Slip metal flashing into the slot you've created. Cut a waterboard 1x10, 1x12, at a 45* angle all along its edge. On the other edge of it, cut a drip groove. This will help prevent rain from backing up between the waterboard and the rim joist. Shove the board up tight to the log and nail/screw into place.
You'll need to do some practice cuts on some scrap flashing and waterboard to get it where you want it.
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Old 02-17-2011, 04:50 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earnie View Post
Ok. I like that idea.

Out of curiosity, was this the correct way to construct the sub-flooring? Should the decking have been recessed below the top of the band joist (correct term?) so it would have not been visible?
What happened here? Is this your new house, Addition? Who did this?
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:06 PM   #22
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To mrgrins,

Gary gave me some ideas on how to cover the area. I'll see if I can upload the drawing.


To Joe,

Yes my house, but I moved in a few years ago. Not sure who was responsible. House was built that way in 1992. Maybe there were no building codes when the house was built, there were codes but framing was not an inspectable area, or framing was a code inspectable item and someone wasn't looking.

The prints were drawn and certified by a architect. I don't recall if a framing detail was drawn.
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Old 02-17-2011, 09:34 PM   #23
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Here is a drawing of how I plan to fix the problem.


Sub-Floor Decking-rim-joist-mud-sill.jpg
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Old 03-01-2011, 03:23 PM   #24
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While cedar is my wood preference to cover the rim joist, are there any issues using oak?

I forgot that I have some 1" x 12" x 12' rough cut oak boards in the shed. I would need to have them planed down some. The boards will be stained with an exterior stain.

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