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Old 01-08-2011, 07:32 AM   #1
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Sub-Floor Decking


I could use some recommendation on how to cover visible sub-floor decking.

As you can see form the picture, the tongue and groove sub-flooring is visible from the exterior of the house. How could I cover over this area to keep air, bugs, or anything else from getting between the gaps?

The T&G is covered with plywood inside the house. However in the crawlspace, the boards are visible.

The logs overhang the T&G by a half inch or so.


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Old 01-08-2011, 07:36 AM   #2
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Sub-Floor Decking


I would be looking at a wooden or aluminum cap flashing, sealed with caulking. Don't use aluminum if the wood you are covering is pressure treated.

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Old 01-08-2011, 07:48 AM   #3
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Sub-Floor Decking


Ok. I like that idea.

Out of curiosity, was this the correct way to construct the sub-flooring? Should the decking have been recessed below the top of the band joist (correct term?) so it would have not been visible?
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Old 01-08-2011, 07:53 AM   #4
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Sub-Floor Decking


The sub decking should not be visable, a pic with a wider field of view would help.

Typically the sub-floor when built off the floor joists, starts at the rim plate, not over lapping the outer band.
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Old 01-08-2011, 08:22 AM   #5
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Sub-Floor Decking


The band is a 2 x 10. Its sitting on a 2 x ? which is on top of the foundation wall.

Considering that there would be no exterior siding (brick, vinyl, ) to me, it makes no sense to have framed it that way. No telling how much air is entering the crawlspace through all those separations in the T&G.


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Old 01-08-2011, 08:33 AM   #6
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Sub-Floor Decking


Well you change it now, all you can do is correct it.

I would be more worried about insects than anything else with that design.

I would definately cover with a nice, perferably cedar trim piece or siding down past the brick line. Sealing the ends of the T&G before installing trim pieces.
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Old 01-08-2011, 09:00 AM   #7
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Sub-Floor Decking


Wow. All the way down to the brick!

Not against the idea. I was just thinking about sealing the gaps in the T&G then covering the 3/4" area with some cedar a couple inches wide.

Can you get me your concerns for wanting to cover all the way down to the brick?
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Old 01-08-2011, 09:06 AM   #8
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The immediate observation is that there are (2) more longitundinal joints, one from the top of foundation to the sill plate and another between the sill plate and the rim joist. These are not typically exposed to weather, there is a good possibility of water leakage and insect penetration at these points as well.
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Old 01-08-2011, 09:21 AM   #9
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Sub-Floor Decking


Ok. Thanks for those points.

I have looked at this issue for sometime just now getting time to see what can be done to correct it.

We had termite pre-treatment years ago and do have yearly inspections. So far no issues. There could be other insects using these gaps but again, no signs of ant or other bug activity.

Rain maybe.

Can you suggest any products that might work? To cover the T&G down to the brick would require a 12" wide board. Don't want it to look like an after thought, though it surely is.
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Old 01-08-2011, 09:26 AM   #10
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Heres a web site that may give you some good ideas

http://www.buffalo-lumber.com/siding-patterns.htm

You may be able to maintain a common look with the rest of your place.
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:09 AM   #11
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If this was my house i would chauk t&g spray wood for bugs then cover it all w/some type of vapor barrier from top of t&g to about 2 in. past brick & cover w/ceder all should be good i also would put a small bead of clear chauk @ top of ceder , good luck sean
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Old 01-09-2011, 12:14 PM   #12
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Sub-Floor Decking


That appears to be the (Fir) rim joist framing without a trim board to cover. It looks like rim to joists nails showing (which there should be 3 in each) and the works was stained, not p.t. This cannot remain exposed to the weather. Add some stock 2x1-1/4" metal flashing under the bottom of existing trim, install the new trim 5/4x12 cedar making sure to get 1" minimum lap past the mud sill onto the brick. Rip a slight bevel (7*) on the bottom of the 5/4 for a drip edge and run a caulking bead at the wood/brick joint to stop capillary and wind-blown water entry. If using metal, install 4" Grace water shield or window sticky wrap on the mud sill first. Use tap paper or house wrap (vapor permeable) on exposed wood before covering with the new trim to let it breathe, not a vapor barrier.

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Old 01-09-2011, 04:42 PM   #13
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Sub-Floor Decking


Thanks for the help guys.

I know it was suggested, but does anyone see a problem with applying a good caulk over the visible T&G boards to fill in those gaps? I had planned to do this but want to be sure I'm not causing another problem.

To Gary. You metioned sealing the space between the mud sill and the brick. What about a bead of caulk along the mud sill and rim joist?

Actually I would like to caulk all those spaces, brick to mud sill, mud sill to rim joist and the full 3/4 inches of the T&G boards.

Also to Gary. Picture is not real clear but that "trim board" you mentioned is an 8" thick log sitting on top of the T&G.
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Old 01-09-2011, 07:00 PM   #14
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Sub-Floor Decking


You can caulk the gaps, though they are running with the long joints, if they are 2x T&G. So caulking would seal them a little bit better, though not necessary. They will still move with the weather changes in the crawlspace (if vented), and not be noticeable due to the plywood underlayment on top. If anything, I think the gaps will help dry them out.

Mud sill/brick should have had a poly sill sealer between as a capillary/thermal break as the brick is a water reservoir siding. Caulking may help keep any bugs out.

"Also to Gary. Picture is not real clear but that "trim board" you mentioned is an 8" thick log sitting on top of the T&G." --- lol..... I have only done a few log homes and they were the 8" peeler logs, stacked in a plywood spline on each end. And I never did the chinking.
You need to protect the T&G ends. I would set the saw at an angle (40-45*) cutting a shallow kerf in the underside of the bottom log close to the edge to slip some metal flashing in there, embedded in caulking to match stain color. It could be flat flash with a 1/4" drip edge so as not to cut anyone close, extending past the new trim board by 1/4".
Be certain a plastic vapor barrier on dirt in crawl. Any insulation?

Gary
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:01 PM   #15
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Sub-Floor Decking


I understand on those points.

Yes, there is 6 mil on the crawlspace ground.

I am working to upgrade it to a 16 mil to completely close the crawlspace. 16 mil poly on the ground and up to within 4 inches of the mud sill.

Vents have been closed for a few years and I have a dehumidifier installed.

Another project is to seal and insulate the rim joist area. Sounds like I need to place the exterior rim joist project ahead of the interior so I don't trap any water or mositure between the rim joist and insulation.

Log houses are nice but a maintenance headache. If I were to build another one I would cover the exterior logs and keep the beauty of the logs for the inside.

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