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Old 06-11-2012, 10:43 PM   #1
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Stud Layout Distances


How should you layout studs when two walls are adjoining? I know that studs are typically spaced 16" on center. I have seen many videos/articles/posts about making sure you space studs correctly, using a 3/4" offset in one form or another to account for the width of a 2x4.

My thought was that if two walls were adjoining, the first wall would have a 3.5" space for the studs of the adjoining wall, then you would put the first stud immediately next to the 3.5" space, then measure 14.5" from the opposite side that stud to the next stud (to account for the 3/4" half-width of both studs, then 16" after that. The picture below shows what I am talking about. Is this the right way of thinking about it?

Edit: This is a basement finish I am talking about.
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Last edited by jpfrench81; 06-11-2012 at 11:10 PM.
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:56 PM   #2
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Stud Layout Distances


In new construction you build corners where the walls intersect. It can be done using 3 studs in a U shaped configuration. This allows a nailing surface where the walls meet.
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:22 AM   #3
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OK, think now. There's the other side of the longer, running wall. And that is often an outside wall where keeping the 16" measurements are much more important.

Think the whole job through.
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:06 AM   #4
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Stud Layout Distances


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Originally Posted by jpfrench81 View Post
How should you layout studs when two walls are adjoining? I know that studs are typically spaced 16" on center. I have seen many videos/articles/posts about making sure you space studs correctly, using a 3/4" offset in one form or another to account for the width of a 2x4.

My thought was that if two walls were adjoining, the first wall would have a 3.5" space for the studs of the adjoining wall, then you would put the first stud immediately next to the 3.5" space, then measure 14.5" from the opposite side that stud to the next stud (to account for the 3/4" half-width of both studs, then 16" after that. The picture below shows what I am talking about. Is this the right way of thinking about it?

Edit: This is a basement finish I am talking about.
Hook the tape on the bottom plate and pull 15 1/4 and then continue like that.

Your diagram is all wrong.
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:50 AM   #5
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Hook the tape on the bottom plate and pull 15 1/4 and then continue like that.

Your diagram is all wrong.
If you do it like this, how do you attach the drywall in the corner for the first wall? The adjoining wall will be covering the stud in the far left corner?
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:55 AM   #6
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In new construction you build corners where the walls intersect. It can be done using 3 studs in a U shaped configuration. This allows a nailing surface where the walls meet.
This makes sense. There will be at least 1"of stud to attach drywall to like in the diagram below. Are there other ways, or is this the standard?
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:56 AM   #7
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Stud Layout Distances


All my corners are 4x4's....

As noted above, the measurement starts from the outside....main reason being that where I am, we have to do shear walls (OSB or plywood panels)....the 4x8 sheet is going to start at the outside corner so you want all the studs to be 16" OC from that corner.

On the inside...I just nail 2x4's to each side of the 4x4....yea, it makes for a beefy corner....but it also makes for a nice square and straight corner....

BTW jp....I went through the same issues when I started my project.
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:58 AM   #8
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OK, think now. There's the other side of the longer, running wall. And that is often an outside wall where keeping the 16" measurements are much more important.

Think the whole job through.
I think I understand what you"re saying, but this is an interior basement wall, so there is no outside wall to worry about.
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:08 AM   #9
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All my corners are 4x4's....

As noted above, the measurement starts from the outside....main reason being that where I am, we have to do shear walls (OSB or plywood panels)....the 4x8 sheet is going to start at the outside corner so you want all the studs to be 16" OC from that corner.

On the inside...I just nail 2x4's to each side of the 4x4....yea, it makes for a beefy corner....but it also makes for a nice square and straight corner....

BTW jp....I went through the same issues when I started my project.
That is beefy! But it definitely takes care of the problem I had in mind.
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Old 06-12-2012, 10:10 AM   #10
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Stud Layout Distances




I use the L corner allows insulation in it. Some just use one stud and drywall clips.
Also I no longer join my drywall on studs. I use Backer boards and join between.
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Old 06-12-2012, 12:00 PM   #11
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Stud Layout Distances


I've always use the "L" stud and measurements are from the exterior.
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Old 06-12-2012, 12:01 PM   #12
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I use the L corner allows insulation in it. Some just use one stud and drywall clips.
Also I no longer join my drywall on studs. I use Backer boards and join between.
Thank you mae-ling. Finally someone showed picture with the studs marked. As a novice when you markout your studs not only mark the edge but mark the whole stud and put an x through it as shown. It is easy to forget which side of the line to place the stud. For a pro this is too time consuming but for a novice will save you at some point. So three peices of advice.
  1. Mark the whole stud location with an x
  2. Dont forget you need a nailing surface on both walls in each corner as shown in mae-ling diagrams.
  3. Drywall corners are butt joints, so along one wall the studs need to be offset by the thickness of the wallboard (typically 1/2). Mark the corner on how you laid out the butt joint. Hint, typically one of the pieces of wallboard will have to be cut anyways, so put it on the outside.
mae-ling or somebody, do you have diagrams for walls intersecting in the middle of other walls. Somebody mention the U layout, but for energy efficient exterior walls there is the T layout as well. I could draw them up if you want.

Side note: I noticed who ever framed my house framed the exterior studs referencing 16" OC from the right and the joists are referenced from the left. the result is the studs land right between two joist. Is there a reason for this?
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Old 06-12-2012, 12:05 PM   #13
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Stud Layout Distances


CLICK HERE to begin to understand the reasons behind the LAYOUT.

This speaks of firring strips, but the same logic applies to studs.
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Old 06-12-2012, 05:31 PM   #14
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[*]Drywall corners are butt joints, so along one wall the studs need to be offset by the thickness of the wallboard (typically 1/2). Mark the corner on how you laid out the butt joint. Hint, typically one of the pieces of wallboard will have to be cut anyways, so put it on the outside.[/LIST]mae-ling or somebody, do you have diagrams for walls intersecting in the middle of other walls. Somebody mention the U layout, but for energy efficient exterior walls there is the T layout as well. I could draw them up if you want.

Side note: I noticed who ever framed my house framed the exterior studs referencing 16" OC from the right and the joists are referenced from the left. the result is the studs land right between two joist. Is there a reason for this?
I do not join my drywall on studs, I join it between and use backer boards.
http://www.google.ca/search?sugexp=c...ll+butt+boards

As far as intersecting walls this is how I used to do it.

Now I use "ladders" for better insulation.

You can use a 2x6 and a 2x4 and make a L with them.

You can even forgo the wood and use Drywall Clips.


The reason your studs and joists don't line up is because it probably does not matter. With 16" on center spacing and double top plates there is no need to line up studs, Joists, and rafters.
Now with 24" on center spacing everything must line up. (Do a google search for Optimum Value Engineering, or framing 24inch on center)
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:37 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by goosebarry View Post
Thank you mae-ling. Finally someone showed picture with the studs marked. As a novice when you markout your studs not only mark the edge but mark the whole stud and put an x through it as shown. It is easy to forget which side of the line to place the stud. For a pro this is too time consuming but for a novice will save you at some point. So three peices of advice.
  1. Mark the whole stud location with an x
  2. Dont forget you need a nailing surface on both walls in each corner as shown in mae-ling diagrams.
  3. Drywall corners are butt joints, so along one wall the studs need to be offset by the thickness of the wallboard (typically 1/2). Mark the corner on how you laid out the butt joint. Hint, typically one of the pieces of wallboard will have to be cut anyways, so put it on the outside.
mae-ling or somebody, do you have diagrams for walls intersecting in the middle of other walls. Somebody mention the U layout, but for energy efficient exterior walls there is the T layout as well. I could draw them up if you want.

Side note: I noticed who ever framed my house framed the exterior studs referencing 16" OC from the right and the joists are referenced from the left. the result is the studs land right between two joist. Is there a reason for this?
Not a good one. Any architect will tell you joists land over studs. (So during the early 70s they built walls 24" o.c. and put joists in at 16" o.c.. That didn't last long either.)
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