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Old 02-23-2012, 06:09 PM   #46
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Stone veneer meets siding...flashing?



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Old 02-23-2012, 06:11 PM   #47
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[quote=George*RLCC;861445]Tom this is what i was referring to...

just instead of brick he's going to finish of top of the wall with the siding.[/quote]


No he doesn’t need weeps read above (you're right) but he could a use drip edge.
Veneer its nothing else than a piece of colored concrete he needs a drip edge unless it will suck up all of the water it gets.
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:54 PM   #48
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Stone veneer meets siding...flashing?


What I'm planning on using is a "man made" stone watertable ...I'm running flashing underneath the siding/weather barrier and then having the flashing kick out over top of the water table. You saying I need more than this?
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:54 PM   #49
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What I'm planning on using is a "man made" stone watertable ...I'm running flashing underneath the siding/weather barrier and then having the flashing kick out over top of the water table. You saying I need more than this?
You'll be fine, as most cultured sills I've seen already have a drip-edge cast into the bottom of them. Nothing more needed............
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:03 PM   #50
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No you dont need more , thats all in good order ,you just need better.
You need to saw a drip edge on bottom of the whatever is overlapping the stone.
And if i was the one doing this job i would replace thin aluminum coil with 20-22 ga galvanized flashing.
Thin coil wont stay in place right, it needs to be bend so it presses down on the sill-cant do with thin stuff.
Also don’t use silicone caulking use OSI or 9000 solar seal
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:09 PM   #51
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Stone veneer meets siding...flashing?


cleated back to the wall will hold it tight,galvi? not sure i would go with any flashing there that could stain
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:35 PM   #52
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It will stain cedar but not stone-limestone.


Siding guys love that 0.019 coil... Tom ...what kind of coil is that that you can cut it with a box cuter ?
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:52 PM   #53
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thats the stuff,but if you do it right it's fine

but maybe some of the commercial roofing steel sheet would be a better choice....depends

and there is always stainless
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:58 PM   #54
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i'm still not buying that masonry can't be installed on to a poured foundation without metal above it,but i like to play
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Old 02-25-2012, 08:50 PM   #55
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Old 02-25-2012, 10:26 PM   #56
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how ya been Ron?
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:21 AM   #57
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What you need is a sealant applicator to professionally caulk the joint between the foundation and the precast ledge, as well as the joints between the individual pieces. This will be a defense against wind driven rain and negative pressure infiltration. It will also shed away any water that gets on the wrong side of the WRB due to solar drive. Then the flashing can be applied as another line of defense.
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:26 AM   #58
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why caulk? seems to me stone veneer cemented to a poured foundation would be monolithic,wheres the movement that would require a flexible sealant?
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:31 AM   #59
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why caulk? seems to me stone veneer cemented to a poured foundation would be monolithic,wheres the movement that would require a flexible sealant?
I'm not as concerned about movement as I am with freeze/thaw. There's also a chance of bulk water being trapped and possible hydraulic pressure, however slight it may be. Damp veneer = algae growth. Keeping it dry on the inside means quicker drying cycle on the outside.
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:31 AM   #60
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how ya been Ron?

Been fine Tom ……buried in work again….finely….can’t keep up.

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