DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   Building & Construction (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/)
-   -   Steel I-Beam in basement remodel - Advice please! (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/steel-i-beam-basement-remodel-advice-please-83670/)

Sammyc53 10-11-2010 08:08 PM

Steel I-Beam in basement remodel - Advice please!
 
Looking to get a steel I-beam to replace to eliminate a post in my basement.

Span of existing 7”H x 5.25W wood beam: 13’ (there is a 6x6 post in the middle of it, this is what I want to get rid of as it is right in the middle of my new living area)
Span of perpendicular 2x8 joist the rest on it: 10’ each side (So the house spans 20’ total)
Above is a kitchen and bedroom. Nothing in the attic (Although maybe someday…)

Do I really need a structural engineer for this one? Isn’t a beam going to be far stronger than what is there? In the past when I have bought laminate beams, an engineer will come for free as long as you buy the lam from them. Does steel work the same way?

My only concern is how to securely attach the beam. On one end, I plan to embed it into the foundation like the existing beam. On the other end, not sure. Also, I am guessing the beam will not be 7” tall, so I will have to make up for this distance. How to I attach the above joists onto the beam? Should I place a 2x8 plate ontop of the beam?

Location: Minnesota

PICS:
http://i.imgur.com/aNOq3.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/oUBKp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/F16z7.jpg

itsreallyconc 10-11-2010 09:23 PM

most engineers i've met want to get paid :laughing: glu-lam builders have staff engineer's cost incl in ovhd,,, yours may suggest a flitch beam.

' embed it into the foundation ' = beam pocket,,, other end, use a supporting column of adequate strength on a supporting independent foundation,,, the in-between part's when we call an engineer :thumbsup:

1910NE 10-11-2010 09:30 PM

you will need to either plan on embedding it in the foundation on the other side (harder), or plan or a post underneath that end (easier). if you havent already looked into them, check out these I beams.

http://www.litesteelbeam.com/

much easier for a retrofit than traditional i beams.

all that aside, your best bet is to work with a structural engineer.

Scuba_Dave 10-11-2010 09:30 PM

Every wood beam I have installed has had an engineers stamp on the plans
So...I'd say you need one

steveel 10-11-2010 09:57 PM

In every jurisdiction I have lived in, removing a post would qualify as a structural change requiring a permit, and applications for such changes required specs from licensed architect or engineer. As a bonus to staying legal you don't have to lie when you sell, when asked to disclose any non-permitted work you did.

ENGINEER10 10-11-2010 11:28 PM

Use Light-Gauge Steel Beam
 
First you must shore the existing joists on both sides of the beam.

You then build a Light-Gauge Steel Beam out of 2 Light Steel Joists fastened together back to back. Fastening can No. 10 self drilling, self tapping in two rows @ 24" o.c. must be used to attach the joists to each other.

The joists can be 12",14ga and ordered from your local building supplier, make sure the steel is 50 ksi strength and the protective coating is at least G60 and G90 is best.

You will also need extended steel clips (16ga,50 ksi, G90) to connect the wood joists to the web of this made-up beam, from the same building supplier.

Floor deck can be fastened directly to the top flange of the beam with longer No. 8 or 10 screws, self drilling, self tapping, with wings.

As far as beam supports connection, without knowing what else is there it is impossible to give any advice.


www.chmconsultants.com/Light-GaugeSteelServices.html

jomama45 10-12-2010 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sammyc53 (Post 515198)
Also, I am guessing the beam will not be 7” tall, so I will have to make up for this distance. How to I attach the above joists onto the beam? Should I place a 2x8 plate ontop of the beam?


I bet your right, the beam won't be 7" tall, but maybe 8 or even 10 inches tall.

Sorry to say, no safe + easy + cheap way to do this, unless the steel supplier has an engineer on staff willing to design the alteration. Some of the larger companies that I've dealt with in the past do, but is indead billed into the cost of the beam.

jogr 10-12-2010 01:49 PM

The steel suppier I bought my beam from for my addition had an engineer on staff that sized it for me as part of the purchase. Your supplier might do the same.

Sammyc53 10-12-2010 05:19 PM

Good info guys, thanks.
Perhaps I'll just fire a steel beam UNDER this beam if attaching the joists will be tricky.

Either way, I have someone coming over later this week to look at the options. Now I at least no some of the products avail :)

Thanks!

ENGINEER10 10-12-2010 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sammyc53 (Post 515727)
Good info guys, thanks.
Perhaps I'll just fire a steel beam UNDER this beam if attaching the joists will be tricky.

Either way, I have someone coming over later this week to look at the options. Now I at least no some of the products avail :)

Thanks!

This will work too Sammy, if you have enough head room left.

When you do it also place a brace in a couple of places from the bottom flange of the beam or the web to the joists.

www.CHMconsultants.com/Light-GaugeSteelServices.html


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:42 AM.


Copyright 2003-2014 Escalate Media LP. All Rights Reserved