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Old 08-03-2011, 08:06 AM   #16
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spalling concrete.


I have not done concrete at all ever. So you think I could just tear the wall down and have like a dirt slope of some sort?

I do like the stone wall going around the driveway in the bottom of third picture... would I be able to keep that?

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Old 08-03-2011, 09:43 AM   #17
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spalling concrete.


Yes, in fact if you like that stone wall you ought to just continue it around to replace the concrete wall. Masonry or dry stacking would be much easier than concrete. Is that an option?
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:58 AM   #18
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spalling concrete.


I don't see why not, and I could continue the wall around without any rise so that it eventually just becomes flush with the sidewalk.
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:21 AM   #19
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spalling concrete.


Great, so if I was advising one of my DIY friends here in Austin I would tell them to dig a 1'deep trench where the wall will go and fill it with gravel to serve as the wall footing. That is because where I am the frost line is 6" deep. We will need to get opinions from other people on this forum as to the best way to do a footing where you are for your frost line depth.

If you can do gravel, leveling the first row of stones is very easy, then you go up from there. We can talk about masonry techniques when we get the footing figured out.

Tell us where you are so we know the frost line depth and let's see what the recommendations are from other members.
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:25 AM   #20
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spalling concrete.


Windsor ct
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:41 AM   #21
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spalling concrete.


Dry stacked segmental retaining walls (SRW's) only require a gravel footing, and it can be above the frost line. The depth of the footing is dependent on the wall height and the amount of embeddedment, which varies depending on the wall height & load. I would estimate that you could get away with a 4-6" thick gravel footing with the first half course buried min. Obviously, you will need to make a few jumps in the footing as you go down the length due to the grade.
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:16 PM   #22
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spalling concrete.


I agree. The dry stack can be continuesd around to replace the concrete. I would consider seriously putting a drainage line behind the wall along the bottom back side, exiting at the current end of the concrete wall.
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Old 08-03-2011, 02:01 PM   #23
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spalling concrete.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jomama45 View Post
Dry stacked segmental retaining walls (SRW's) only require a gravel footing, and it can be above the frost line. The depth of the footing is dependent on the wall height and the amount of embeddedment, which varies depending on the wall height & load. I would estimate that you could get away with a 4-6" thick gravel footing with the first half course buried min. Obviously, you will need to make a few jumps in the footing as you go down the length due to the grade.
I really am not up on my lingo, but I assume the first "course" is the first row of blocks. As far as matching the blocks, is that relatively painless?FYI, I wil probably draw a little picture of my game plan, subject to the approval of the board of course

As far as drainage goes, would that require cutting one of the SRWs so that I could have a drainpipe coming out?
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Old 08-03-2011, 05:30 PM   #24
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spalling concrete.


Correct on the lingo question. As for matching the blocks they should be easy to find at a local rock yard. The new ones will look a different color until they weather but the size and cut will be the same.

The drain pipe will come out of a weep hole, you can just pull it between a gap you leave between two rocks in one row.

Cutting rocks isn't bad, a number of ways to do it. Score and break, chip with masons hammer or my personal favorite, concrete saw rented from your local tool rental store. Just make sure you hook it up to a water hose or your whole neighborhood will be white.
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Old 08-03-2011, 05:56 PM   #25
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spalling concrete.


Broughton -

If it is a SRW wall, which is the most common material, weeps are never used or recommended, but frequently a perforated pvc id used to collect the moisture that does not drain though the gaps between the units.

Color matching is not a problem because the same units are used for thr first course and the upper proportion.

they are not "rocks", but are manufactured units. Cutting is rare unless it is a square corner that is minor and can be accomplished with a masons hammer. For a curved wall (inside or outside corner) almost all standard SRW units are designed to handle most landscaping radius's.

Teamcampreder -
Just take a look at one of the web sites for the major and most available SRW systems (Allan Block, Anchor Block, Keystone and Versalok) that provide accurate information and installation instructions for walls from 2' to 40' high.

Dick
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Old 08-03-2011, 06:17 PM   #26
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spalling concrete.


Thanks for chiming in, Dick. I'll stop putting weep holes in my dry stack retaining walls.

I do think you will have to cut the capstones but Dick knows way more about this than I do obviously.

Camp, you can go to lowes or home depot and look at examples of SRW blocks to get an idea. I have never seen the ones you have there but they do have some.
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Old 08-04-2011, 08:24 AM   #27
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spalling concrete.


Thanks for the info guys... will report back with results and/or questions
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Old 08-05-2011, 01:41 PM   #28
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spalling concrete.


If you haven't already started, the family handyman had an article in the june 2011 magazine on how to do this.

http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Pr...retaining-wall
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Old 08-25-2011, 02:31 PM   #29
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spalling concrete.


I saw that exact situation in Neustadt ON, on a 100 year old home. The owner knocked it down and replace it with 6x6 pressure treated wood. BTW it needed to be achored with perpendicular structure half way up. I think they did it every 10 feet, staggered the wall and finished it with two more layers of wood. It looks great but isn't cheap. To get rid of the cencrete is costly here in mid-western Ontario. It was done by Pros and a team of 3 in a few days. Just a thought ..

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