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tiki16 10-03-2010 04:51 PM

Spalling brick and mortar issue
Hello, I have 100 year old semi-detached brick home, in Toronto Canada. I've noticed that the brick is spalling very badly and that repointing will be needed as some of the mortar is coming out. I've owned the home home 1.5 years. The weather is subjecting to freezing and thawing during winter.

The home inspector mentioned that the brick would need to be repointed in some places, but I don't recall him mentioning replacing the spalling brick.

Can the current deteriorated brick be painted to prevent further spalling or should the brick be replaced? I've attached some pics.
Thanks in advance. Steve

tiki16 10-03-2010 05:12 PM

spalling brick
3 Attachment(s)
Here are the photos

stadry 10-03-2010 07:21 PM

we're attached to our 35yr old home in atl so i can't understand a semi-attached status :laughing: repointing's the 1st issue after that's done, give it a good coat(s) of silicone siloxane ( we use prosoco ),,, did notice 1 thing - is that a cracked brick or 3 adjoining end bricks ? might be an indication of settling,,, normally we'd expect to see the crk follow mortar jnts - NOT THRU a brick.

NEVER paint brick :no:

concretemasonry 10-03-2010 08:13 PM

Tuck pointing does not mean the brick must be removed. If you have access to some original or matching brick, they could be cut into two short haves and used to replace the bad brick.

That could be a bonded brick wall with a course showing the ends and they could be the tie between two separate wythes. If this is how the wall is built and any moisture between the wythes could go down until it hit a cross-ways brick, and saturate it. A brick that is saturated will more of a durability problem. In any case tuck pointing and itsreallyconcrete's sealer suggestion would help. That is assuming the the wall is a true double wythe wall and not just a veneer.

If it is just brick veneer, the ends of the brick are usually shown for a historic pattern, but tuck pointing and a sealer would extend the life.Iy would be good to determine the configuration of the wall and not a veneer on a wood frame wall.

It is entirely possible the the ends of the brick are more susceptible to freeze-thaw damage because they are formed (extruded) differently than the faces (wire cut usually), but the manufacturing process for taht particular brick may have been different.


tiki16 10-03-2010 08:20 PM

Hi, re:did notice 1 thing - is that a cracked brick or 3 adjoining end bricks ? They are end bricks. Where can i buy prosoco?

tiki16 10-03-2010 08:28 PM

That is assuming the the wall is a true double wythe wall and not just a veneer.

Hi Dick how can i tel if it is veneer or double wythe? Do i have to remove a brick?

concretemasonry 10-03-2010 09:11 PM

Determine the internal wall materials and the approximate wall thickness or find someone to actually look at the wall.

In your area, you could have either method of construction. The traditional and European influence might lean toward a multi-wythe wall. The modern, low, cost concepts could be some sort of wood with other material for the interior half.

I had a magnificent home 100 year old home made of 10" hollow clay tile with stucco (original) plus full 2x4s for furring out the interior lath and plaster and was surprised when I started digging around. I even found the name of the wall paper hanger and the date it was hung. You never know what you will find. - for good or bad.


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