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Old 05-08-2013, 09:25 AM   #31
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Something faster than tapcons?


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Originally Posted by jomama45 View Post
If it has at least a 3/8" chuck it will take an SDS+ bit.........

The reason for the SDS+ bit is because it's of much better quality than the free bits, and is easily sourced for a homeowner......
Yep, means slotted drive system. Now what do you suppose the slot does?

Correct! It allows the bit to slide in and out and go BAM!BAM!BAM!BAM!BAM!BAM!

instead of didididididididididididididdidididididididididid

The Bam pulverizes the concrete. The didididididididididididididid Pulverizes your nerves.

By the way, you buy SDS bits by the cost per hole, not the cost per bit.

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Old 05-08-2013, 09:43 AM   #32
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Something faster than tapcons?


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If it has at least a 3/8" chuck it will take an SDS+ bit.........
"Taking" and "working correctly" are 2 different things. Yes obviously an SDS+ bit will fit in a regular drill chuck. So will a stick, or a car key, or a screwdriver tip. The point is it's not designed for a regular check, and it probably won't center correctly or spin true.

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The reason for the SDS+ bit is because it's of much better quality than the free bits, and is easily sourced for a homeowner......
No, the reason for the SDS+ bit is that its shank allows it to be used in SDS+ rotary hammers, which hammer the drill bit itself like a piston, rather than moving the entire chuck assembly, making for more efficient hammer drilling. If SDS+ bits are better quality, it's coincidental and beside the point.
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:52 AM   #33
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Something faster than tapcons?


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"Taking" and "working correctly" are 2 different things. Yes obviously an SDS+ bit will fit in a regular drill chuck. So will a stick, or a car key, or a screwdriver tip. The point is it's not designed for a regular check, and it probably won't center correctly or spin true.

Try it and get back to me on how it works. I've done it hundreds of times, I already know the answer.......

No, the reason for the SDS+ bit is that its shank allows it to be used in SDS+ rotary hammers, which hammer the drill bit itself like a piston, rather than moving the entire chuck assembly, making for more efficient hammer drilling. If SDS+ bits are better quality, it's coincidental and beside the point.
I probably own a few thousand dollars in masonry/concrete drilling bits alone. I understand the basics. Again, try chucking the SDS+ in a std. chuck and get back to me..........
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:55 AM   #34
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Something faster than tapcons?


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Originally Posted by jagans

Correct! It allows the bit to slide in and out and go BAM!BAM!BAM!BAM!BAM!BAM!

instead of didididididididididididididdidididididididididid

The Bam pulverizes the concrete. The didididididididididididididid Pulverizes your nerves.
I prefer to use the BAM!BAM!BAM on concrete(or early in the morning) and the didididididi on brick( or later in the night). It's important to use the right tool at the right time.
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:08 AM   #35
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Something faster than tapcons?


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I took that test- what joke. Hilti sales rep gives you a 1 page quiz reads the question and gave us the answers- and we checked off the correct answer.
Well, that's because he wants to sell Hilti guns. Where in Idaho are you? I used to live in the Tri-Cities area of Washington.
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:12 AM   #36
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Maybe someone already mentioned it............ BLOW OUT THE DUST FROM THE HOLES (with air pressure) as you drill. It makes ALL the difference in the world.
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Old 05-08-2013, 11:09 AM   #37
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that is the exact one I have for light duty, it has a flip switch that goes from normal drill to hammer drill.
Surprised it dosent say Wood/Metal- Drywall
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:08 PM   #38
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Something faster than tapcons?


he said he was leaning on it lightly.. that's the problem.. put all your weight on it..

and blow out the dust every ten seconds or so..
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:31 PM   #39
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Maybe someone already mentioned it............ BLOW OUT THE DUST FROM THE HOLES (with air pressure) as you drill. It makes ALL the difference in the world.
It will make basically no difference at all in his situation. He is not being blocked by dust. I'm not even sure he has a hammer drill, but I've experienced what he has when using my hammer drill. There is concrete, or specific areas in concrete, that is much harder to drill than others. Dust has absolutely nothing to do with it.
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:37 PM   #40
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It will make basically no difference at all in his situation. He is not being blocked by dust. I'm not even sure he has a hammer drill, but I've experienced what he has when using my hammer drill. There is concrete, or specific areas in concrete, that is much harder to drill than others. Dust has absolutely nothing to do with it.
Yeah, the areas that are harder is where you hit a stone, or a rebar, Jeff. And cleaning out the hole does make a difference, especially when you are drilling through the sole plate and into the slab. The size and design of the bit has something to do with it too. It is difficult to keep carbide from breaking off the tip of anything smaller than a 1/4 inch drill, because there is not enough support for the carbide. that's why I said to get 1/4 inch rawl spikes, not 3/16" You simply drive them in with a hammer.

No, you DO NOT lean on a real hammer drill, you let the drill do the work. Maybe you do lean on a home and garden one, though.

A salesman from Hilti came to my shop a long time ago, and had a TE12S. He asked what we used to drill concrete for fasteners. At the time we used the long makita drill/ hammer drills. Pretty nice tools. I generally like Makita Tools. He asked If I had a place we could test the two tools against each other. The Hilti drilled 8.5 holes to one hole drilled by the Makita. I bought 6 of the Hilti's at 350 bucks a pop. The Makitas were 140. Absolutely no comparison between a real hammer drill, and a bump clutch, and anybody that knows anything will tell you this.

Images of an SDS Bit, and an older Rawl Spike. They are coated black now. This is the way to go, but you need a real hammer drill. Like I said, Powder actuated is too unpredictable for me in concrete and often blows out the surface. Tapcons are great for concrete block, cinder block, and mortar joints. Forget them in structural concrete.
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:42 PM   #41
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Yeah, the areas that are harder is where you hit a stone, or a rebar, Jeff. And cleaning out the hole does make a difference
I'm telling the OP that it will not help when the drill cannot make progress in the concrete, because in that case, by definition, no dust is being created.

There was definitely no rebar in my case, and the OP has said the same.

Looking into the hole, I examined very closely and could see no evidence of any color or texture difference. It's possible stones are being hit, but we are talking about slabs in houses within the first 1".
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:49 PM   #42
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I'll bet your using a "DDDDDDDDDD" drill. I call it a cam type hammer drill. I used one for years, then discovered the SDS type. You can't believe the difference.

I think Hilti is top....but I use the Bosch Bulldog, about $200. It zips thru concrete, rocks, brick, everything.

Seems like a big expense for a few anchoring holes, but I can't believe how I lived without it. Have a spade bit for digging holes, taking up tile, demo work, splitting rocks. I have the $40 regular chuck for it also and use it for regular higher torqe drilling. (Not like a hole-hawg....but more than a standard drill)

When I use my ramset for non-structural type attachmennt in concrete/ cement, I do like to back it up with liquid nails or silfex or a poly.


Just a thought
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:06 PM   #43
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I'll bet your using a "DDDDDDDDDD" drill. I call it a cam type hammer drill. I used one for years, then discovered the SDS type. You can't believe the difference.

I think Hilti is top....but I use the Bosch Bulldog, about $200. It zips thru concrete, rocks, brick, everything.

Seems like a big expense for a few anchoring holes, but I can't believe how I lived without it. Have a spade bit for digging holes, taking up tile, demo work, splitting rocks. I have the $40 regular chuck for it also and use it for regular higher torqe drilling. (Not like a hole-hawg....but more than a standard drill)

When I use my ramset for non-structural type attachmennt in concrete/ cement, I do like to back it up with liquid nails or silfex or a poly.


Just a thought
Yeah most of my tools are Bosch, nowadays. Good stuff. Now guess what is really holding up the stuff you used powder actuated, and liquid nails on? I would suggest Polyurethane. Maybe thats what you mean Sika-Flex NP1, Bostik Chem calk 900, etc. You will have to tear the house down to get that stuff off.
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:09 PM   #44
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I encountered the same problem when framing up some walls in the basement. Buy the ramset tool, nails, and bullets. They're relatively cheap and work well. There were a few that didn't hold and just blew a small chunk of concrete out, but just fire another one not too far away and you should be good. A lot cheaper than buying a fancy hammer drill and faster.
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Old 05-08-2013, 02:58 PM   #45
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That drill is a hammer drill, has a little switch on top.

Though my second option would be to buy a SDS bit and put it in my bigger (SDS) hammer drill I bought not long ago for another project that did not pan out (tried to use it to break up concrete, was not enough). But I'm on my way to go get a ramset and I'll try that first. Should I go with the more powerful "red" bullets?

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