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-   -   some basement framing question (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/some-basement-framing-question-127649/)

s002wjh 12-25-2011 04:05 PM

some basement framing question
 
so i'm try to do some framing work in my basement. one issue I encounter is one of the wall is parallel to the floor joist, which mean i can't connect the top plate to the joist without bump the wall forward another 10". the wall is 14 feet, is it okay to use an L bracket to make a connection between top plate and joist every other stud??

same thing with another wall 18' which has water/gas pipe hanging from joist. can i do the same with L bracket.

parallel wall with joist

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/..._untitled4.jpg

wall with pipe hanging

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/..._untitled3.jpg

oh'mike 12-25-2011 04:41 PM

I usually attach the walls to wood blocks that are gunned to the foundation itself.

Or add wood blocking between the rim joist and the first floor joist and nail upwards into those.

---If you could resize the pictures more people will respond.--Mike---

s002wjh 12-25-2011 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 802868)
I usually attach the walls to wood blocks that are gunned to the foundation itself.

Or add wood blocking between the rim joist and the first floor joist and nail upwards into those.

---If you could resize the pictures more people will respond.--Mike---

so the 1st method require drill hole into concrete wall?

pic resized

oh'mike 12-25-2011 05:46 PM

I gun them in with a .22 caliber stud gun--cheap tool and fast.

I take a couple of 2x4 shorts (about 16" or so) and nail them together,side by side, so they are L shaped when looked at from the end.

First ,gun the wall to the floor--then get the wall plumb--left to right--position the blocking against the foundation---gun it to the foundation with 2 or 3 shots--

Next--pull the wall forward until it's plumb--and nail wall to the block.

s002wjh 12-25-2011 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 802902)
I gun them in with a .22 caliber stud gun--cheap tool and fast.

I take a couple of 2x4 shorts (about 16" or so) and nail them together,side by side, so they are L shaped when looked at from the end.

First ,gun the wall to the floor--then get the wall plumb--left to right--position the blocking against the foundation---gun it to the foundation with 2 or 3 shots--

Next--pull the wall forward until it's plumb--and nail wall to the block.

i see thanks.

so if i attach L block from wall top plate to the next joist is not a good idea?

oh'mike 12-25-2011 06:02 PM

I don't know what you mean by an L block--Sorry--

s002wjh 12-25-2011 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 802907)
I don't know what you mean by an L block--Sorry--

something like this an horizontal 2x4 parallel to joist attach to wall's top plate, the end of horizontal plate is attach to a vertical 2x4, which is attach to the 7 inch joist side by side.

can i do this?

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...Untitled3a.jpg

oh'mike 12-25-2011 07:12 PM

That looks like it would be weak and wobbly--can you get blocking all the way from the joist to the outside rim joist--above the pipes--then add some blocking down to the wall top?

Gary in WA 12-25-2011 07:36 PM

You have good eyes, Mike! Lol, I can hardly see that......
s002, be sure to foam board the rim joist and air seal it with canned foam before you add the 3/4" plywood (or other) behind the new wall out from the concrete wall for required fire-stop. At vertical wall to horizontal joist cavity as per minimum Code; http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...002_par031.htm

Gary

s002wjh 12-25-2011 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 802931)
That looks like it would be weak and wobbly--can you get blocking all the way from the joist to the outside rim joist--above the pipes--then add some blocking down to the wall top?

the problem is the joist is perpendicular to the pipe. if the pipe is not there i can connect the stud directly to the joist.

the red horizontal line is the joist, perpendicular to the pipe. the vertical red line is the height of joist. the new wall is beneath the middle two water pipe(gap between pipe is about 2-3inch, not enough space for 2x4)

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...Untitled4a.jpg

s002wjh 12-25-2011 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBR in WA (Post 802946)
You have good eyes, Mike! Lol, I can hardly see that......
s002, be sure to foam board the rim joist and air seal it with canned foam before you add the 3/4" plywood (or other) behind the new wall out from the concrete wall for required fire-stop. At vertical wall to horizontal joist cavity as per minimum Code; http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...002_par031.htm

Gary

ok thanks gary. i didn't even think about firestop. basically for fireblock as long as there are insulation or foam to fill the empty space between stud or space between wall and concrete, between ceiling and 1st floor, then it should be fine? basically fill any gap with something to minimize spread of fire from vertical to horizontal or between studs?

there are insulation attach to the concrete foundation(see above pics, silver foil cover for the insulation), do i need to take those off, add plywood between my wall and concrete for proper fireblock ? or i can keep those on, just add plywood or 2x4 blocks against the insulation?

also any other things i should do? i never frame wall before so please let me know if anything worth mention thanks

woodworkbykirk 12-25-2011 10:28 PM

why dont you strap the ceiling first with 1x4's. by doing this you'll have something to attach the top of the wall to something solid.

s002wjh 12-25-2011 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk (Post 803121)
why dont you strap the ceiling first with 1x4's. by doing this you'll have something to attach the top of the wall to something solid.

well, i need to build a soffit beneath the pipe, there is a vent on right side of gas pipe(black). so i was think attach the one end of soffit to the wall top plate, would that work? the other end of soffit will attch to joist.

Gary in WA 12-27-2011 10:17 PM

On fire-blocking and draft-stopping; http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-f...framing-37190/ first two pages cover drop soffits and wall/ceiling.

The foil-faced is not air-tight to stop air movement and moisture; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...-at-rim-joist/

Gary

s002wjh 12-28-2011 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBR in WA (Post 805123)
The foil-faced is not air-tight to stop air movement and moisture; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...-at-rim-joist/

Gary

so I have to remove the insulation/foil that is anchored to the concrete fundation, then install wall/fireblock etc? there is no other way to keep the insulation on the concrete wall?


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