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Old 03-08-2011, 02:59 PM   #16
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Small Shop / Garage build thread


As long as you have adequate temporary bracing on your walls you can do the roof first. You have some but not enough. You need all four walls squared up, plumb and angle braced with the braces securely nailed or screwed into at least several studs and the plates. I have built many sheds, garages and even a house, sometimes I will shingle before I sheet the walls but I still usually sheet all the outside corners first. You are putting a lot of mass up on the roof, the walls need to be secure.

On a building that small I would probably just sheet all the walls first. You can quickly sheet it up by using full sheets and cutting out the openings later, after the roof is done. Don't worry about the small triangle shaped pieces to fill in the gable ends, you can easily do those after the roof is on. Those two things will significantly reduce the amount of time it takes to sheet it. When you are ready to cut the openings drill holes in the corners of the openings then use a straight edge to mark outlines of the opening on the outside of the sheeting. I have used a small cordless circular saw, a router with a flush trim bit, a sawzall, or even a jig saw to cut the openings.

Don't use small pieces when sheeting the end with the roll up door. Use full sheets placed vertical and cut the door opening out after the sheet it is nailed on. Your opening takes up most of the end leaving very little for the lateral bracing that will keep that end from racking over time. A full 4 foot wide L shaped piece nailed securely will provide much better bracing than a bunch of scraps.

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Old 03-08-2011, 03:03 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by iamrfixit View Post
As long as you have adequate temporary bracing on your walls you can do the roof first. You have some but not enough. You need all four walls squared up, plumb and angle braced with the braces securely nailed or screwed into at least several studs and the plates. I have built many sheds, garages and even a house, sometimes I will shingle before I sheet the walls but I still usually sheet all the outside corners first. You are putting a lot of mass up on the roof, the walls need to be secure.

On a building that small I would probably just sheet all the walls first. You can quickly sheet it up by using full sheets and cutting out the openings later, after the roof is done. Don't worry about the small triangle shaped pieces to fill in the gable ends, you can easily do those after the roof is on. Those two things will significantly reduce the amount of time it takes to sheet it. When you are ready to cut the openings drill holes in the corners of the openings then use a straight edge to mark outlines of the opening on the outside of the sheeting. I have used a small cordless circular saw, a router with a flush trim bit, a sawzall, or even a jig saw to cut the openings.

Don't use small pieces when sheeting the end with the roll up door. Use full sheets placed vertical and cut the door opening out after the sheet it is nailed on. Your opening takes up most of the end leaving very little for the lateral bracing that will keep that end from racking over time. A full 4 foot wide L shaped piece nailed securely will provide much better bracing than a bunch of scraps.
Thanks. I appreciate the tip about the drilled holes in the cutouts. I have a jig saw I will do it that way.
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Old 03-08-2011, 03:32 PM   #18
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I would ask the neighbors nearby if anyone has a nail gun and compressor and can lend a hand for a couple of hours, it would take next to now time to sheet the sides and roof with an extra set of hands. I know if my neighbor asked I would volunteer my tools and a few hours to be a good neighbor. That's what its all about isn't it?

Framing looks good and the suggestion about the sheathing on the gable end with the overhead door is a good suggestion, that is the definite weak point in the structure and any little bit will help.
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Old 03-08-2011, 03:47 PM   #19
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Great looking job so far… and I anticipate it looking just as good all the way through to completion.


One very important point has been made already. That’s a big opening for the door, so you do want to be sure it is good and square. Then put your sheathing on in full pieces. Your header looks fine. Good and sturdy. But the added rigidity of full sheets making those corners and tying every bit of lumber there together is nothing but valuable insurance against movement.


Have you considered overhead storage? You’re built nice and heavy, so the rafter ties will comfortably support a reasonable amount of weight. Also, putting a light plywood floor up there will also help add to the stability of the whole square shape. Access could be made through one of the gable ends.

You might also want to consider extending the lengths of the center five rafters over the personnel door (or maybe only three) by a couple more feet. It will be easy to frame in a nice entry overhang for rainy weather when you are standing there unlocking the door. It’s a bummer to have the roof shedding all that rain down right on top of you.

One neat thing about having 9' ceilings is that you have ample room to construct nice, high shelves all around the edges of the upper walls... or hangers for long stock, up there out of the way.
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Old 03-14-2011, 08:52 AM   #20
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Update time.

This past week I finished up nailing everything, and also added some OSB to the ends so I could put the jack rafters with lookouts on and cap everything off.







I know this isn't the best way to do this and it would have been better if built a little more structurally stable. I figured when I get everything tied to the roof sheathing, this 1' overhang created by the jack rafters and lookouts will be more solid than it appears. There are 20d 3.5" nails running through the end rafters into the lookouts on the jack rafters. The lookouts are also toe nailed and the jack rafters are face nailed to the end of the ridge board. The fascia board is a 2x6 as well, so that should tie them in well too.

I started putting the roof sheathing on Saturday afternoon after work. It took me about an hour to figure out a way to get the pieces up there. I started with a rope attached to clamps thinking I was going to drag it up there. That was a joke..(5/8 OSB) So I finally figured out if I took my extension ladder and put the two sections side by side and tied them together I could create a ramp. I could then push the pieces up the "ramp" and climb behind them to get them up. The first one was the hardest to put in place on the roof, after that the others seem to fall in place without much issue..other than exhaustion. Heavy isn't the word..







Here's a view from the roof peak showing the cutouts in the sheathing for the ridge vent. They turned out a little smaller than I intended, but it is just a shop so I'm sure it will work fine.



Here I have put my felt on and stapled it in place. I have some felt nails with the little plastic caps, but I will put them on when I start to putting shingles on as I go up. I didn't have to get on the roof to put the felt on, just rolled it on and stapled it on the ends to provide some sort of water protection. I hope to start getting shingles up in the next day or two. Now that the time has changed I will have an hour of daylight each night when I get home. This is as far as I've gotten as of now.





I was talking to some people this morning about the felt, and pretty much everybody agreed that I need to go and put some nails in the stuff so it doesn't blow off. I thought I had it attached well on the ends but I guess it isn't like it should be. I'm gonna try to leave work early today and go home and attach it better. I have some of the felt nails with the plastic caps on them.
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Old 03-14-2011, 09:41 AM   #21
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Looks great J S!
Nice job!

To me it looks thousand times better with a 1' overhang.
Just my opinion.

Nice job.
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Old 03-14-2011, 10:01 AM   #22
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J.S. get you some tin caps and staple through them, it will be much quicker.

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Old 03-14-2011, 08:49 PM   #23
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Looks like you are moving right along! I'll mention a few things and why. Use some sticky window wrap on the bottom edge of the OSB because you don't have the required 8" to earth separation. Run a short sub-fascia from the second common rafter out to hold the gable O.H. fly rafter, cutting the gable rafter short the 1-1/2" thickness required. Your box soffit wall ledger will also run out there for support. much easier to nail the wall sheathing off to the top plate before rafters.... Add more nails at the rafter/joist connection as per minimum Code for your pitch- 4/12= 5 nails; http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...002_par023.htm

Remember your rafter blocking to prevent rotation on top the wall with closed soffits. Check man door R.O 82-5/8", big door= 7' or 8' height plus wrap thickness, same with sides to end with 16' net. Using a ridge vent, may want to check on the width per manufacturer. Remember drip edge, rake flashings and rake board (1x2) if used. Movin' along!

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Old 03-14-2011, 09:11 PM   #24
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I got some felt nails up there today so the felt doesn't go anywhere. Ready to start shingling in the next few days. It is raining now, so I guess we'll see how it holds up.
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Old 03-15-2011, 08:27 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Looks like you are moving right along! I'll mention a few things and why. Use some sticky window wrap on the bottom edge of the OSB because you don't have the required 8" to earth separation.
Can you provide more info on this? I haven't gotten to the window part yet so I'm not sure how they are supposed to be installed. I have done some studying on the flashing and the way the sealing tape and all goes, but just like everything else there are 100 ways to do it and each and every one is right..I assume you mean the same stuff I will be using for the windows..

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much easier to nail the wall sheathing off to the top plate before rafters....
The reason I didn't sheath the walls before I stood them is because I would not have been able to pick them up. I have done every single bit of this project by myself. everything I have done had to be done in a way I could pick it up myself with no help. The rafter seat cuts come down and sit on the cap and some of the top plate, but the top plate still has some surface area to nail the sheathing to. It should not be to much of an issue; no nothces for rafters or anything.

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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Add more nails at the rafter/joist connection as per minimum Code for your pitch- 4/12= 5 nails; http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...002_par023.htm
Thanks. I will do that. My pitch is 6/12 though.

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Remember your rafter blocking to prevent rotation on top the wall with closed soffits.
I was wondering about this, and I'm not sure exactly what needs to be done or how to do it.

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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Using a ridge vent, may want to check on the width per manufacturer.
I did. Both sides of the cut out are about a 1/2" too tall, because I added something wrong in my calculator. I don't think a 1/2" on either side of the ridge board is enough to worry about though. This is only a shop.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Remember drip edge, rake flashings and rake board (1x2) if used. Movin' along!
I have my drip edge, and my rake boards and fascia boards will be covered in metal, to go with the vinyl siding trim.
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:29 PM   #26
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The bottom edge of sheathing is near ground level, rather than elevated away from the splash surface. OSB hates water. The siding should cover the OSB by 1" lap, because the framing is flush with the slab. the OSB will be edge exposed from below, behind the siding. I would cover the edge to protect it from water, bugs, moisture and condensation in the air. OSb does not dry readily, the wet travels sideways into the center of the sheet before drying outward; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...d%20in%20walls I would use the window wrap along the bottom edge for protection.

I meant sheath the walls after frame is up to nail the sheathing at double top plate for ease of installation. Then rafters. No biggie...

The 4/12 was an example, use nails required for your pitch as that is the weak area.

The blocks can install on edge between rafter/joist lined up flush with the outside edge of top plate or there-a-bouts. Code has changed---- blocking not required if under the IRC unless 2x10 or greater when adding the ceiling joist thickness to the rafter thickness; http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...002_par028.htm

Blocking is still required in the seismic zone I live in, as well as floor joist intermediate wall blocking. So, possibly required for others in a high wind area. I stand corrected.

“I don't think a 1/2" on either side of the ridge board is enough to worry about though. This is only a shop.” ---- seems like you are going to the trouble of venting the ridge, taking a few extra minutes to make sure of maximum opening slot would be worth it…. When your slot is 1” wide but under-cut ½”, you would be 50% less effective than total.

Sounds good on the fascia metal, drips, etc…..
http://ohiobuildingcodeconsultants.c...cingdetail.pdf


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Old 04-02-2011, 11:18 AM   #27
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Ok sorry for the lack of updates. I have been busy with work and this thing. I do have pictures though..

I left guys with the roof covered in felt and not properly cap nailed. Well I did leave work early that day to go and put some felt nails in. It rained like crazy that night so I'm glad I got that done. The next day I started with the drip edge and also the fascia boards. Finished up the drip edge and got the shingle starter roll on all the way around.

I didn't get a picture with the shingle starter roll on on because it was dark when I finished that night. Here are two pics with the felt nailed and drip edge up right before I did that though



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Old 04-02-2011, 11:19 AM   #28
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I started on the roofing and finished it up in about three days. Roofing is mentally easy, but physically demanding. Roofers earn their money..that is for sure :yesnod:





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Old 04-02-2011, 11:20 AM   #29
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Old 04-02-2011, 11:22 AM   #30
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I put up a couple more pieces of whole OSB up. Those are easy, because all you have to do is stick them up and nail. You can see that, as well as some other details of the building here-








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