small garage stairs

Daniel Holzman

Based on personal experience, it is more difficult than you might think to cut perfect stringers. The idea of box steps is very appealing, if I had it to do over, that is what I would do with my deck steps. Simpson and others make very easy to use hangers to attach the treads to the box stringers, bombproof, code compliant, easy to install. There was a post suggesting concrete block steps, which might work very well in your case. Concrete block is very cost competitive, relatively easy to install, worth considering.

gta

Should I use tapcons or concrete bolts when I secure the top riser to the concrete block underneath the threshold?

Hammer450R

Tapcons are fine.

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gta

I haven't started building the stairs, but I will soon.

I am assuming you all suggest tapcons for attaching the header to the wall because of the fact that the foundation is a concrete block construction.


Don't you think those expansion bolts are stronger than tapcons?

I am pretty sure the concrete block wall was filled.

hand drive

[quote=I haven't started building the stairs, but I will soon.

I am assuming you all suggest tapcons for attaching the header to the wall because of the fact that the foundation is a concrete block construction.


Don't you think those expansion bolts are stronger than tapcons?

I am pretty sure the concrete block wall was filled.[/quote]

3- 5.5" or 6" (finished height) steps would fit your situation well and tap cons can be used for the riser if it sits down onto the top step but expansion bolts would be much stronger and recommended, especially for the structural part of the stair to block attachment.

hand drive

3- 5.5" or 6" (finished height) steps would fit your situation well and tap cons can be used for the riser if it sits down onto the top step but expansion bolts would be much stronger and recommended, especially for the structural part of the stair to block attachment.

GBrackins

for a 5-1/2" to 6" riser you should make the treads about 11-1/4" minimum. "Rule of Thumb" for stairs 1 riser + 1 tread = 17" to 18" (old builder's tale) the shallower the riser the wider the tread.

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Gary

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ddawg16

2x12? In my addition, my stringers are 2x14....

Anyway....

Since we are talking only a few steps, why not platform? Instead of worrying about stringers...just build it all the way to the ground. with PT as the bottom plate.....

I personally think the 'sides' on those stairs make for a trip hazard. I would prefer an open tread.

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gta

Well, looks like I'll be cutting box steps.


I cut my first stringer and everything was perfect. The measurements, the materials except for one thing.

The freakin circular saw I had was not square even though I checked it with a square prior to use.

Apparently something happened during the cut that caused it to go out of square. I'm not really sure. Maybe I pressed down on the work piece too hard?

Anyway the first stringer had beveled cuts along the rise and runs. Not acceptable imho. Good thing I only cut one stringer.


The idea of a box stair is now very appealing. I will also be getting a new saw. Perhaps a makita not a cheapo skil.

hand drive

because you will be building landing type steps consider 16" steps and my info in the other post was incorrect, you will need 2 steps built not three. 2 - 6" finished height steps would divide evenly into your 18" height and as GBrackins mentioned, the larger tread steps will accommodate the smaller height risers and you will appreciate the extra tread when stepping down from the doorway onto them. The makita saw is a very balanced saw and I have liked using them , never owned one though.

gta

Im still in the process of cutting out my stairs, but I have a question.


Even with the makita, the cut is not perfectly square. Any reasons why?

It is better than the skil, but there is still a slight bevel. I don't plow through the material too fast and I use a straight edge guide.

I don't know if this makes sense but, the two sides of the blade that are closest to the base plate are square, but when I make a cut, the top side of the cut is indeed square but the bottom cut has a slight bevel relative to the top cut.


The blade could be flexing? I don't know.

GBrackins

have your confirmed the 90-degree angle with a speed square?

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Gary

"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"

kwikfishron

Sounds like time for a new blade.

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gta

Yes. I placed a square up to the blade and it is 90 degrees. For some reason, during the cut, it goes out of square.


I used the blade that came with the saw. It is a makita 24T framing blade. It is kind of thin. Maybe that's the problem?

GBrackins

could be .....

I've seen guys pushing the blade into the wood (pushing down from the side while operating the saw) and the blade might bend a little. I usually use my square as a guide to run the saw against. other than that your guess is as good as mine .....

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Gary

"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"