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Old 12-18-2013, 07:23 AM   #16
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slanted roof at 5:12 pitch


Is that aluminum you used for the termite shields on the piers?
You can not use that in direct contact with pressure treated wood.
The new wood is treated with copper and will react with the aluminum.

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Old 12-18-2013, 07:37 AM   #17
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slanted roof at 5:12 pitch


I'm with Jim on the sheathing issue.
I lived in a house that only had Cellotex on most of the walls with just plywood in the corners.
Every time there was a gust of window the whole house would crack and pop.
There was always drywall cracks and nail pops.
It will add .62 to the R value.
Hardee planks are brittle enough, add no backing and that's asking for trouble.
Sounds like there building slam bam thank you maam houses.
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Old 12-18-2013, 07:44 AM   #18
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slanted roof at 5:12 pitch


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Originally Posted by cortell View Post
You said "I am considering spray foam insulation which cancels the need for soffit." I'm not following you there.
I assume he means he is sealing in the attic, which is a modern trend. There are some considerations with shingle manufacturer warranties in this case though, that should be explored.
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Old 12-18-2013, 07:49 AM   #19
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slanted roof at 5:12 pitch


Where's all the window and door framing?
I can see what looks like two windows, but there's no header from what I can see.
Mistake to not have a header, install the openings to close to the ceiling and top plates
and there's no room for the trim.
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:02 AM   #20
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slanted roof at 5:12 pitch


Back to the roof. The little blue book that comes with a speed square has tables on rafter lengths. The problem is once you cut them all you will find some of them don't fit for one reason or another. I recommend custom fitting each and every one to avoid problems.
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:22 AM   #21
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you will probably need to shave some off of the top of the joists where the rafter sits next to them on the plate depending on your rafter size. the bird mouth will make the rafter sit lower than the height of the joist. that is something done on the bench usually if the framer knows what roof is going up there and what to plan for.
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Old 12-18-2013, 09:01 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by candigirl39 View Post
Cortell the roof I am going for is a skillion roof I have even heard it called a pole shed roof. I will get the book you recommended. Thank you
I don't think those are the same things. A skillion roof is a lean-to roof. Surely you're not going to do a lean-to roof on a structure that wide, are you? At 5:12, you're going to have to build a rather tall knee wall on one side of that building to pull that off, which will be inherently unstable for a load bearing wall given the pivot point.
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Old 12-18-2013, 09:37 AM   #23
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Big Jim if I am understanding you correctly you are referring to the Simpson straps that come in the coil. I thought so too after reading all the information that was on the Simpson website, especially being in a high wind, hurricane, and tornado prone area and it seems like you didn't have to notch the wood. I was told that the 1x4 method is more cost effective, but it if meant a stronger and safer home, i would gladly pay for the metal strapping. I already have simpson ties from the brams to the frame and i am putting ties on ceiling joists to cap plate and of course hurricane ties. It would only make sense to use sheathing on the frame since I have seen it used on every home except for this one. I feel sorry for those homeowners because the houses start at $250,000 in that neighborhood and it's closer to the coastline. I will be starting with the sheathing shortly and take the advice on the strapping.
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Old 12-18-2013, 11:35 AM   #24
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The fellows posting here now know what they are talking about, listen to them. They know the new methods, I am an older builder and a lot of the newer things I haven't tried.

I do know if I were to build in a high wind area, I wouldn't build on just piers especially that tall. There some things you are talking about doing that just don't seem to be beneficial to you.

One is the style of roof you are talking about. If you are in a high wind area your house would be the first to go with that type of roof, it will catch way more wind than a conventional roof. The strongest roof will be a hip roof for high wind, or flat which I hate.

If your building is 24 feet wide, a regular roof would be about 5 feet tall at the ridge, a shed roof on a 5 and 12 will be about 10 foot tall at the high point, much more wind and on piers that tall you are asking for destruction. You will also need rafters at least 26 feet long (2-14 foot on a knee wall). you really need to stop at this point and get a plan that will work.
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Old 12-18-2013, 11:40 AM   #25
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There is no way I would depend on materials applied to the inside walls for permanent bracing.
Yeah... what if someone decides to re-finish the interior walls?
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Old 12-18-2013, 12:31 PM   #26
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Hey Jim i think i explained wrong initially but I just had this same conversation with a builder working a block over that came by just to see what i was up to this morning. I explained to him about the roof and 5:12 would be the height at the highest point. He told me and sent me to a website that said exactly what you just said that for a house in this area on piers to make this a lean to roof wouldn't be a good idea. So I think you are correct I need to slow down but I really want to get this covered. I thought a flat roof would be easier, but I was told it would have only been easier if this house was 1/2 the size. So back to the drawing board.
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Old 12-18-2013, 12:41 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
Is that aluminum you used for the termite shields on the piers?
You can not use that in direct contact with pressure treated wood.
The new wood is treated with copper and will react with the aluminum.
The pier caps I am using are 26 Guage galvanized steel. Was warned about the aluminum ones a while back.. crazy thing is I couldn't find them anyway.
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Old 12-18-2013, 01:47 PM   #28
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I think i may have to go with a gable roof but I really like the flat roofs and the retro look that the flat roof offers. Literally if I could put a roof on the ceiling joists I would. Is there a way to get a flat roof that does not have to be so high at its highest point??? Just enough for water to run off and still get home owners insurance
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Old 12-18-2013, 02:40 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by candigirl39 View Post
House will have. 6 windows and 2 doors.. I live in the county so the only permit or inspection was septic. I do have knowledge of building roof in theory but since this is my first time actually doing it just thought I would seek advice
Welcome to the forums!

You really should contact a local official as you are under your State Building Code; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...l_jc9tA3Qxc1vQ regardless if they inspect the work or not. That code may require windows equal to a percentage of the room sizes, and so many other things I won't list to meet your HO Insurance requirements. You live in a high wind area, framing above-beyond the minimum 90 mph wind speed construction; 301.2(4)- map; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...?bu2=undefined

http://www.awc.org/pdf/WFCM_90-B-Guide.pdf

IMHO, judging by the pictures alone with 30 years of just framing houses; you really need some professional help/more knowledge other than a chat room. I mean this in the kindest way... not trying to offend you.

Gary
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Last edited by Gary in WA; 12-18-2013 at 05:15 PM. Reason: sp
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:41 AM   #30
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Snow loads are probably not an issue where you are so you could construct a gable roof that is 1:12 and use membrane rather than shingles. It would look almost flat and still shed water. Plus wind driven rain would not get under shingles.

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