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Old 10-02-2010, 06:08 PM   #1
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sistering/replacing a floor joist


So I've done a lot of reading on floor joist replacement, but none seem to address my exact situation. I had a spot that was poorly flashed between my deck and house, and water rotted out one of the floor joists that sits on a sill plate. Flashing has been fixed, but I'd like to get the floor back up to level and give the wall some support by putting in a new joist. My plan is to get the new joist in place, then sister it back 3' from the damaged area of the existing joist. I have about a foot of crawl space below the floor, so I can access it from below.

I can't figure out how to get the new joist in place since it's notched and sits on the sill plate. I know I'll have to jack up at least the joists on either side as well, but how do i get the new joist to sit on the sill? It seems like if I place the new joist next to the damaged one and then jack up the joists with a beam, I'll have to beat on the end of it to get the notch seated on the sill. But will it slide into place, or is there a better way to do this? Thanks for the help.

-Neil
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Old 10-03-2010, 09:58 AM   #2
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sistering/replacing a floor joist


i would probably try to sister the entire joist on one side, right to the other sill plate or ledger.

if you can't, go back as far as you can.

as far as getting it in place, i would try to slide the sister piece all the way in on the flat, and then tilt it up into place. you can relieve the closest corner to the subfloor ever so slightly, just a quick few swipes with a hand plane, or a router or tablesaw or skilsaw, so it will go in a little smoother.

a few hits with a hammer or sledge (using a block of wood to distribute force and protect joist) and it should go right in, with no jacking necessary.

good luck.

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Old 10-03-2010, 01:45 PM   #3
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sistering/replacing a floor joist


The sill is OK, right?

Once you are sistering, will you just screw, or will you do through-bolts and will you use fender washers?

If you have trouble, you can always add shims

Curious how you fixed the outter flashing?



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Originally Posted by schmolze View Post
i would probably try to sister the entire joist on one side, right to the other sill plate or ledger.
If he can get the sister to lay along "enough" solid wood close to the damaged end, why would you go all the way across? Sure, if he wants to strengthen the floor or fix some other issue that would be a reason. But why take down cross bridging and mechanicals any further than absolutely necessary? (I just said "enough" since OP needs an engineer to really KNOW how much is necessary, and anything else is a rule of thumb that may not apply in OP's situation.)
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Old 10-03-2010, 02:36 PM   #4
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sistering/replacing a floor joist


well, there was no mention of any cross bridging or mechanicals in the way. i'm simply saying, if it's a straight, unobstructed shot, there's no good reason to arbitrarily throw in a 3' chunk of sister when you could just as easily run the entire length and sleep better about it.

if the end of that joist is completely munched apart by rot, why would you choose to only throw in a few feet at the end? that to me would be a "cob job."

if all the OP can get is 3', then fine.
then again, what do i care what he does? simply my opinion.
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Old 10-03-2010, 02:41 PM   #5
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sistering/replacing a floor joist


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Originally Posted by schmolze View Post
well, there was no mention of any cross bridging
good point, I was assuming the span is enough to require bridging
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