Single PT Mudsill Or PT Mudsill & Sole Plate On Concrete - Building & Construction - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum


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Old 08-19-2010, 08:13 PM   #1
TMD
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Single PT mudsill or PT mudsill & sole plate on Concrete


Hiya,

In preparation to building a home workshop on an existing 16 x 24 slab, I have been looking at different building techniques.

On of the questions that has come up is about attaching the walls to the foundation.

One camp says that you can a single sill that is PT. The studs are nailed to the PT sill and the sill is anchored to the concrete foundation.

The other camp suggests using two plates at the bottom of the wall: a PT sill that functions as the mudsill and then non-treated lumber for the sole plate for the wall. This camp suggests, you bolt the PT mudsill down first, build the standard wall and stand it on top of the PT mudsill, toe nailing it to connect the two.


Any preferences fromt eh group or thoughts?

Thanks,
TMD

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Old 08-22-2010, 11:11 AM   #2
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Single PT mudsill or PT mudsill & sole plate on Concrete


i'm at the same stage, wish someone answers! i have a new slab, 16x20 with j bolts installed.

putting down the pt sill plate... should i put Styrofoam (DOW) between the slab and pt sill plate?

1 concrete slab
2 Styrofoam?
and/or
3 Glue or caulk?
4 pt sill plate
5 any type of metal drip flashing used down at the pt sill or sole plate?
thank you!

hanging around construction sites, i believe i've seen Styrofoam used on top of cinder block stem walls then pt sill plate.

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Last edited by Rockie; 08-22-2010 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 08-22-2010, 11:56 AM   #3
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Single PT mudsill or PT mudsill & sole plate on Concrete


Welcome, welcome to the forum!! (To the both of you). The termite shield goes down if required in a high termite risk area. Your local Building Department will know. A sill sealer is the capillary and thermal break from the slab. The single bottom plate, p.t. or naturally decay resistant wood, is required by Code. http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...-building-code
http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=...Sf-fmaa9ayOUVg

Page #3, Plates: http://www.codecheck.com/cc/images/CC5thEdSample.pdf


Be safe, Gary
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Old 08-24-2010, 10:41 AM   #4
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Single PT mudsill or PT mudsill & sole plate on Concrete


Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Welcome, welcome to the forum!! (To the both of you).
Be safe, Gary
thanks gary. i don't see in codecheck anything about drip flashing around the pt sill or the sole plate. do you guys caulk around the pt sill plate? i'll just be using the DOW Styrofoam. (i saw your link for that other foam. is it really much better than DOW?)

in my county i don't need a permit for 200sq feet. but i've done it past code so far, the monolithic slab. my slab with have cured for 7 days on thurs 8/24 and i'm just about ready to start framing.

i hope i can check back here when questions come up.

i'm in OR so our codes/techniques are probably about the same as you in WA.

thanks!
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Old 08-24-2010, 11:47 AM   #5
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Here's for codes: http://bulk.resource.org/codes.gov/

Yes, you can caulk it. Or use some backer rod in front of the caulking, to get that hour-glass shape for optimal protection: Venting Columns

Click on my name icon and again for “read all posts by GBR” -------- I just posted that yesterday, lol.

Another trick I use is run a caulking bead at the bottom, under the p.t., at the drip edge to stop water from following the plate edge to the gap under it. This works on deck ledgers, too.


Any brand sill sealer is fine.


"i hope i can check back here when questions come up."---- Absolutely! That's why we are here....


Be safe, Gary
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Old 08-28-2010, 10:29 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Here's for codes: http://bulk.resource.org/codes.gov/

Yes, you can caulk it. Or use some backer rod in front of the caulking, to get that hour-glass shape for optimal protection: Venting Columns

Be safe, Gary
i read those links. my house is sided with hardie plank 8". followed the instructions to the T, 1/4 to 1/8 gap. all caulk beads have massively split failed in a year on the south side. i'm not sure how to fix that because backer rod doesn't go down to a 1/8? i will read more in detail on your links. i would like to fix those this year but must try to frame/roof the new garage before the rains.

originally i was asking if i could/should use drip flashing on my new slab. (no stem wall on slab) 1. slab - 2.DOW styrofoam - 3. pt sill plate (if i use drip flashing where would it go?)

when i exterior sheath the the framing, the sheathing bottom edge will be near/touching the slab. how do i protect the sheathing? my friend, using a cinder block stem wall, sheathed down onto/over the cinder block. (inspected and passed). this can't be good. just like your links above, you have to have a capillary break so the water doesn't wick into the UNTREATED wood!!! i'm thinking to paint on some wood preservative or use some felt paper down on the sheathing lower edge where it will come in contact or near the monolithic slab. i have no stem wall. i have a 12"x18" concrete footing monolithic slab with a 4" center slab.
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Old 08-28-2010, 10:45 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Here's for codes: http://bulk.resource.org/codes.gov/

Yes, you can caulk it. Or use some backer rod in front of the caulking, to get that hour-glass shape for optimal protection: Venting Columns

Be safe, Gary
i also started to read those links you posted about the roofing. i just found out you shouldn't fasten metal roofing directly to the osb roof sheathing (like the contractors did to my house a few years ago.) because of the no capillary break. the new garage will not be insulated but most of the heat will come through the roof so i need to metal roof it with a heat shield and capillary system in mind.

here is a pic of my slab.
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Single PT mudsill or PT mudsill & sole plate on Concrete-slab.jpg  
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Old 08-28-2010, 11:20 AM   #8
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Single PT mudsill or PT mudsill & sole plate on Concrete


The termite shield or flashing, if used, should go on the concrete- then the sill sealer. http://greencomplianceplus.markengli...ites-2page.pdf from: http://greencomplianceplus.markengli...ites-solution/
The ply/OSB should stop at the bottom of the plate. These sheathings will suck moisture but will dry out, one slower than the other. http://www.apawood.org/pdfs/managed/...TOKEN=27731641
http://www.coastalcontractor.net/cgi...ticle.pl?id=14
http://www.eima.com/pdfs/The%20Perfe...r%20Stucco.pdf

This will get you stared on siding: http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...rainage-planes
I would use some sticky window wrap on the bottom.

Gary

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