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-   -   Simple question on 16" O.C. framing (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/simple-question-16-o-c-framing-58019/)

TitaniumVT 11-26-2009 08:44 PM

Simple question on 16" O.C. framing
 
Hi everyone, I'm building a 2 car detached garage. In framing my first wall, I had a simple question on appropriate technique when it comes to 16" OC framing. The wall is 27' wide. The first stud starts flush against the left edge of the wall. I inset the second stud at 15 1/4", and then the remaining studs at 16". Everything should line up perfectly to accommodate 4x8 sheets of material.

The question: Counting off 16" OC, the final (rightmost) stud doesn't line up flush on the right edge of the wall. It actually comes up 3.3" short. Since I'm using 2x6 studs (which theoretically can be spaced up to 24" apart), is it ok to just shift the last couple of studs over by an inch and a half each so that the final stud hits square at the 27' wide mark? Or should I just start the adjacent wall at that corner using a 2x4 stud on the corner and 2x6s for the rest of that wall?

Is there a "right way" to deal with the discrepancy?

Termite 11-26-2009 09:10 PM

Not so sure I understand what you mean about the studs lining up, but I can tell you that the spacing is usually not critical on a single story structure wall bearing roof load only. It is ok to fudge an inch here or there, but if it is just a spacing issue I'd maintain the 16" spacing and end up with a couple studs spaced tighter together near the corner.

TitaniumVT 11-26-2009 09:18 PM

Thanks for the quick reply. By "lining up", all I meant is that if you start at one end of the 27' wall and place studs 16" apart, you end up about 3" short when you get to the other end of the 27' wall (i.e., 16" doesn't divide evenly into 27').

Thanks for confirming that fudging an in inch on the last few studs is ok. I suspected it would be, and it's good to get the confirmation. If it makes a difference, it's going to be a 2 story structure (with small mother-in law apartment above the garage).

Thinking about it a bit, I think I can build an outside corner for the adjactent wall using that 3.3" space. That just means I'd have to move the final stud on the first wall over by approx 2" to accommodate the 2x6 corner stud which will start the second wall.

Sorry for the newbie question. It's my first time framing a wall, and though I understand much of the theory behind wall construction, it's only when actually do it you come across minor details like this.

pyper 11-27-2009 07:01 AM

I'd keep all the studs on 16" centers and add one more for the last three inches (probably a 2x4). Studs are cheap. If you're hanging drywall then you want to make sure that you've got a stud at the end of each of your sheets, so if you're using 8' or 12' sheets you definitely don't want to move the one at 24'

Termite 11-27-2009 11:19 AM

Agreed, you're better off maintaining your spacing at 16" centers and then having a narrow space between the end two. If you space them out wider and then land roof loads on the plate between them, there are circumstances when you'd need to add studs to support non-stacking roof loads because of the top plates' inability to span that far under point loads.

skymaster 11-27-2009 11:29 AM

hmmmmm, how did you build your outside corners? If you built the sheetrock nailer into your corners that would have taken up those 3". IMHO At least that is how I do it, NOT being a full time framing wiz. My corners take up 3 full studs and a bunch of "shorts" as nailers for the full "rock" stud.

Scuba_Dave 11-27-2009 12:19 PM

There's a few different ways to frame the 3 stud corner
I usually wait until the construction is dry-roof on, before I add the 3rd stud
I insulate the corner, drill out the existing 2x, then drill the last 2x - thread my outlet wire thru - then slide the 3rd 2x into place & nail it
An easier method leaves the corner pocket open to insulate:

http://www.kurowski.com/dreamhomes/c...nsulation..JPG

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/graph...108_corn10.jpg

skymaster 11-27-2009 01:10 PM

Dave: :}:} that is ez r than I do LOL LOL I go to the bother of 3 studs
nailed in "U" shape and then double the "bottom " as the nailer for the wall. Damn NEVER send a finish carpenter to do framing :laughing::laughing::yes::laughing:

Gary in WA 11-27-2009 02:44 PM

Dave, your picture doesn't match the diagram..... The pic is using all 2x6's, hence the 1-1/2" of flat stud showing, the way I frame. The diagram uses a 2x4. Inside partitions the same way.(slower is to use horizontal blocking at drywall breaks) The only way to insulate with batts, besides drywall clips.

Read you plans for the shear sheathing on the corners. IF they require a 48" panel on each corner, run 23', 16"oc from one end, and 4' from the other end back. If only a 3' panel, you're fine. If OSB or ply sheathing, I adjust the layout to compensate for the required side butt gap (1/8), unless the material is marked- "Sized for spacing" it is already under 48x96". Build the front and back walls first.



Be safe, Gary

Scuba_Dave 11-27-2009 03:50 PM

Yes - which is why I said there are a number of ways to do it :wink:
I have always "boxed" the corner in with (3) 2x's
So there is a solid 2x perpindicular to each interior wall to attach sheetrock
Some people use (4) 2x's to box the whole corner in

The more wood there is, the more cold air they transfer to interior walls

Gary in WA 11-27-2009 07:51 PM

Ahaaa.... Before my lunch..... must remember to eat... helps think. Sorry!

Titanium, don't forget to bring down any point loads from above with extra studs.
" it's only when actually do it you come across minor details like this." ------- If using Hardi horizontal lap, I pull stud layout from the corner trim, plus 1/8", so when siding all the first starts are based on 16" o.c. (don't have to cut the bottom 12' first board) All the rest get 16" increments cut from them and their waste board starts that corner without any more cutting. (Mix them up, looks better than stair stepping). Takes 1/2 as much cutting -the corner's 22-24 boards (depends on exposure and wall height).

Be safe, Gary


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