Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Building & Construction

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 08-25-2013, 08:50 PM   #31
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: zentral Iowa
Posts: 1,230
Rewards Points: 546
Default

Sill plate


In my neck of the woods, we leave the slab at least 4" above grade and have either bolts or straps installed every 4' or so, and within some distance of every opening.

On a 24 wall, I just frame up two 12' walls and lift them over the bolts.

It doesn't take a rocket scientist. You don't have to spend much time before you can figure out to put a piece of something under the sill plate for it to slide on, then position the wall over the bolts and pull out the blocking.

Obviously, you don't what the bolts to stick up over 2", just enough to get a washer and nut on them.

So get some 2" pvc and cut it into small pieces and put it under the wall on the ground, tilt the wall up, slide it in place, pull out the pvc, and you are done.

We put the sill sealer underneath as well.

I haven't seen any of this business of the 2 sill plates and a bottom plate.

cleveman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2013, 07:01 AM   #32
DIY staff
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 21,850
Rewards Points: 2,348
Default

Sill plate


Quote:
Originally Posted by jomama45 View Post
NOOOO, DON'T GIVE THE DIY'ER's THE WRONG IMPRESSION!!!!!!

The "grout" you'll find in the HD concrete section is generally non-shrink/anchoring/"precison" grout. It's actually mostly intended for concrete use, but it can be used "ON" block for a situation such as leveling under a sill plate. You certainly don't want to use it INSIDE as block core fill though, it's WAAAAY too strong for that......

Sorry, I'm no mason ---the tool I use for most concrete and masonry?
A telephone---" Hello, this is Mike, could you come to the job and price out some concrete work?"----I
__________________
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--
oh'mike is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to oh'mike For This Useful Post:
hand drive (08-26-2013)
Old 08-26-2013, 07:54 AM   #33
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 306
Rewards Points: 256
Default

Sill plate


Quote:
Originally Posted by jomama45 View Post
NOOOO, DON'T GIVE THE DIY'ER's THE WRONG IMPRESSION!!!!!!

The "grout" you'll find in the HD concrete section is generally non-shrink/anchoring/"precison" grout. It's actually mostly intended for concrete use, but it can be used "ON" block for a situation such as leveling under a sill plate. You certainly don't want to use it INSIDE as block core fill though, it's WAAAAY too strong for that......
why cant you use concrete for that? Why does it have to be grout?
detroittigerfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2013, 08:11 AM   #34
AHH, SPANS!!!
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 1,682
Rewards Points: 1,028
Default

Sill plate


Quote:
Originally Posted by detroittigerfan View Post
why cant you use concrete for that? Why does it have to be grout?
concrete will crack and compress easier than the harder to crack non shrink grout
hand drive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2013, 08:22 PM   #35
Concrete & Masonry
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 2,737
Rewards Points: 2,026
Default

Sill plate


Quote:
Originally Posted by detroittigerfan View Post
why cant you use concrete for that? Why does it have to be grout?
I'm a little confused at the question, but you actually DO want to use grout in block cells to encase the vertical rebar for strength. You just don't want to use non-shrink grout, as it's waaaaay too strong. Generally, block cavity grout is designed to be in the 1500-2500 psi range, where non-shrink can exceed 10,000 psi strength. When the strength of the grout exceeds the strength of the block (somewhere between 3500-6000 psi typically) you create more non-favorable issues......
jomama45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2013, 08:22 PM   #36
Concrete & Masonry
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 2,737
Rewards Points: 2,026
Default

Sill plate


Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
Sorry, I'm no mason ---the tool I use for most concrete and masonry?
A telephone---" Hello, this is Mike, could you come to the job and price out some concrete work?"----I
Technology is amazing, isn't it? Used to be you had to drive to the corner tavern to get a hold of your mason...............

jomama45 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to jomama45 For This Useful Post:
GBrackins (08-27-2013), kwikfishron (08-27-2013), oh'mike (08-28-2013)
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Repair/replace sill plate and joist ends heybales Building & Construction 5 02-16-2013 10:33 PM
Jacking Exterior Wall / Replacing Sill Plate Pittsville Building & Construction 2 06-16-2012 09:11 AM
Replace Sill Plate to Basement Block Wall - No anchor bolts DoItMyselfToo Building & Construction 4 09-10-2011 03:07 PM
Replacing Rotten Sill Plate Material Tester Carpentry 6 03-28-2011 08:08 PM
replacing rotted sill plate and rim joist behind a deck ledger board tommyt Building & Construction 2 08-11-2008 07:38 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.