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Old 08-23-2013, 05:46 PM   #1
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Sill plate


When attaching sill plate for a garage am I correct that the walls are stick framed instead of built on the ground since the still need to be bolted to the foundation wall? And is it normal to mark the bolt locations on the foundation wall according to where a stud falls so as to avoid a bolt being in the way of a stud?

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Old 08-23-2013, 05:55 PM   #2
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The garage walls in my parents' house had visible bolts coming up through the bottom plate. But they lived in CA, the land of earthquakes, so that may not be a code requirement everywhere (or even anywhere else). For sure it's the only place I've ever lived that requires strapping for water heaters.

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Old 08-23-2013, 05:58 PM   #3
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The walls are built while laying flat on the slab.
The foundation bolts should have been laid out so they missed the studs.
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:19 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
The walls are built while laying flat on the slab.
The foundation bolts should have been laid out so they missed the studs.
So then if you built the walls on the slab they would have be lifted up and over the bolt. I just figured they would stick frame it.
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:24 PM   #5
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with a garage a big wall that is pre built will need a small crane to lift up onto foundation. even a small wall could be challenging depending on the height of the foundation. might be best to stick build by adding studs every 4' or so and at the top plate breaks first and then fill the wall in later after it is up. sit bottom plate next to bolts where plate/wall will lay and lay out the drill holes onto plate lining up with the foundation bolts. set plate onto bolts and bolt it down...
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:13 PM   #6
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every area has their own way of framing. in my area we typically use a double sill plate. anchor bolts attach the sill plate(s) to the foundation.

for a garage the wall would be frame on the concrete slab then raised on top of the sill plates. there would be a sole plate (bottom plate) for the wall. the sole plate is attached to the sill plates with (3) 16d nails per foot.

the plywood sheathing is then attached to the sole plate and sill plates. we cover the entire exterior side of exterior walls with wood structural panel sheathing (plywood or osb).

if you look at the top of the foundation you'd see (3)2x plates on top of the foundation (2 sill plates + 1 sole plate)
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:09 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by hand drive View Post
with a garage a big wall that is pre built will need a small crane to lift up onto foundation. even a small wall could be challenging depending on the height of the foundation. might be best to stick build by adding studs every 4' or so and at the top plate breaks first and then fill the wall in later after it is up. sit bottom plate next to bolts where plate/wall will lay and lay out the drill holes onto plate lining up with the foundation bolts. set plate onto bolts and bolt it down...
Is it allowable to set the wall on the foundation wall and then bolt it after the fact with sleeve anchors?
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:21 AM   #8
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You need to read GBrackens post----attach the treated sill--then build your wall on the floor---set it on top of the sill---nail or screw into the treated sill with ACQ approved fasteners---

Quick,easy and stable----drill openings in the bottom plate to clear the anchor bolts.
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:43 AM   #9
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The double sill plate is the way to go. Use treated for the bottom, bolt it to the foundation, build the walls on the slab and tip up into place. They aren't so heavy you need a crane unless they are real long...a typical garage wall can be tipped up with two people.

Yep...if it is a poured foundation wall, you can use any typical concrete anchors drilled in after the wall is set, if it is block you would need to fill some cores to have something to drill into. Be careful about using expansion anchors before the concrete or mortar is well cured.

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Old 08-24-2013, 07:48 AM   #10
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stick framing is the preffered method for framing garages. unless the concrete is perfectly level and dead straight the wall wont be level as it will follow the contours of the concrete.


if you set the corner posts then string a line across them you can create a perfectly level top plate. every stud will have to be cut different to allow for variances in the concrete slab
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:49 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
You need to read GBrackens post----attach the treated sill--then build your wall on the floor---set it on top of the sill---nail or screw into the treated sill with ACQ approved fasteners---

Quick,easy and stable----drill openings in the bottom plate to clear the anchor bolts.
even if you put down a double sill your still going to have bolt threads sticking up.
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:51 AM   #12
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stick framing is the preffered method for framing garages. unless the concrete is perfectly level and dead straight the wall wont be level as it will follow the contours of the concrete.


if you set the corner posts then string a line across them you can create a perfectly level top plate. every stud will have to be cut different to allow for variances in the concrete slab
Your not attaching the walls to the slab. Your attaching them to the foundation wall.
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:27 AM   #13
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You can build the walls on the slab, square them up and set them on the foundation wall, then drill in as many anchors as you want. I'd lay a heavy bead of silicone down under the sill, too.
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:30 AM   #14
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for this particular garage how high does the foundation wall sit above the slab and how tall are the proposed walls to be? I've built 14' tall 2x6 walls on a 3' garage foundation, stick built all the way, there was no pre building that one...

Last edited by hand drive; 08-24-2013 at 08:47 AM.
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Old 08-24-2013, 01:07 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by detroittigerfan View Post
Your not attaching the walls to the slab. Your attaching them to the foundation wall.

same difference.. either way it has to be done as i stated

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