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Old 08-03-2008, 02:13 PM   #16
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sill / pan flashing questions


i think i got it. here is my plan for the window header piece. where should i put the caulking?

do i need flashing down the side or bottom?

i will see about renting a metal bender tool... if not available i'll just do my best to bend into a Z-shape using a table edge and piece of 2x4



Last edited by Knucklez; 08-03-2008 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 08-03-2008, 02:38 PM   #17
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sill / pan flashing questions


Yep, thats pretty much it. On your window flashing(and maybe you were planning to do this)I would make that lip go around the 3 sides of your header trim. Also, the only place I would caulk is where the header trim meets the jamb. You could also put a kerf just before they meet, on the header piece, to encourage any water to drop off before it even gets to that joint.
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Old 08-03-2008, 08:11 PM   #18
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sill / pan flashing questions


ok, thanks - i've updated the drawing below.

i think folding the flashing in 3 ways will be tricky.. might take some practice before i can get it in one go..

are you sure the caulking is right? i was just thinking that if any water DID get in there, i would like it to gravity feed out. but if there is caulking along the bottom seam this won't happen.


Last edited by Knucklez; 08-03-2008 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 08-03-2008, 09:44 PM   #19
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Nice detail drawing what program are you useing. BOB
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Old 08-03-2008, 10:12 PM   #20
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Are you carrying the extra flap above well beyond the side of the opening/flange?

It seems the caulk can cause more harm than good.

Dick
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Old 08-04-2008, 06:01 AM   #21
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sill / pan flashing questions


As for the caulk, water always seems to find gaps and weaknesses in anybodys project....wherever they are. My personal opinion, caulk it.

Maybe I didn't explain myself with the flashing issue. You already have drawn the final bend, down and in front of the header trim(looks like 1/4-1/2 inch bend ). What I meant to convey was to continue that same bend and create a "return" if you will, on both ends of that header trim.

Unless you will have the thing made up where they can solder the corners, heres what I would do:

Extend that front downward bend beyond the total length of the trim by about an inch on both sides. Then bend that "ear" back over the side, downward bends.

Did I do better?
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Old 08-04-2008, 07:11 PM   #22
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sill / pan flashing questions


no you didn't do any better - but you tried hard and that counts for something

i removed the caulking from the picture (not totally convinced its a good idea) and i drew the over-hang more pronounced.

the flashing is basically just "Z" shaped. so it is one long piece of 6" (hopefully i can buy wider!) aluminium which has 2 folds in it. there are no ear flaps. the total length of this flashing equals the length of the trim piece.

ps. i copy/pasted the image from another website and then edited it using paint.net so it better matched my own application.

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Old 08-05-2008, 06:31 AM   #23
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Ok...I'll give it one last try. See if I can get my feeble mind in gear this a.m.

You are suggesting to have a simple piece of Z-flashing over the trim and I'm assuming it will extend beyond that length by 1/2 - 1 inch or so. I just have always done one more step in mine, and that was to take the bend that is sitting on TOP of the window trim and extend that as well. Then, I would fold that extra extension down, over the end grain, to match your front bend. To finish it off, I would have cut my FRONT bend, say 1/2 inch longer than the TOP bend, so I now have a 1/2 "ear" to fold over the bend that is convering the end grain. Essentially creating a 3-sided pan....

Thats the best I can do...but your drawing is just fine and should work flawlessly! Just different methods.
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:59 PM   #24
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sill / pan flashing questions


ok, i think i understand you now. your method sounds like it was born from experience about what works better than other.

from my ameture point of view.. i went to HD tonight and what they sell pre-made looks more like my first picture. so ... that's what i'm going to use.

but, i do appreciate your willingness to pass on knowledge and help out a DIY'er. please keep it up!

14 yard disposal bin is rolling onto property this weekend. got lots of scaffolding. got family & friends coming over all weekend.. we're going to have FUN ripping off all this old siding

Knucklez
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Old 08-06-2008, 03:26 AM   #25
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Better you than I my friend! Have fun!

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Old 08-06-2008, 09:34 AM   #26
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Hey Knucklez - I see you're in Ontario, Canada - in the southern part or up here in the boonies?

Just looking at your drawing - couple questions (since siding will be on the to-do list here a few years out - might as well start learning what I can now...)

- why board and batten siding - is this for aesthetics, or budget, etc. - what made you go that route?

- furring strips - is this something you do for air space in behind the siding, implying you can't go right against the wrap?

- the furring strips seem to run horizontal - wondering why - lately I've seen a couple houses in the area here where the contractors ran the strips vertical and then siding across them and i figured that was the way to go - hope this isn't a dumb question

this thread has been very informative - thanks all....

-Randy
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Old 08-28-2008, 08:10 PM   #27
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hi rtoni,

i have a lot more info on the subject over here: LINK

chose board & batton because we really like the authentic old age look. you can also choose any colour.

the furring strips are there mostly to allow air passage behind the boards. the boards themselves are groved on the back side to allow air to travel past the furring strips.

furring strips running horizontal because the wood siding is going on vertically.

hope this helps,
Knucklez
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Old 09-02-2008, 12:17 PM   #28
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Thanks Knucklez - I guess I should have figured out the siding thing (vertical vs horizontal) from your drawings - foggy brain - anyway the add'l info and sanity check are very much appreciated

-Randy
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