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Old 09-10-2012, 09:12 AM   #1
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Siding Questions


Hello. Have to replace Beveled Cedar siding on house and want to get some feedback on Materials and some general questions.

1800 Square foot for siding.
Current exposure is 6 1/4 inch
I have foam board insulation and no OSB etc on exterior. (a little worried of getting siding nailed without getting waves) I am sure if the first builder could do it it’s only a matter of craftsmanship/know how and nail gun settings.

Ok the real questions.

1. Does anyone have feedback on the pros and cons of Hardiplank vs Maxiplank PPG Cement board....outside of the cost difference! For instance warranty, one is easier to cut/ work with etc. I am interested in the primed only and I am not keen on the price of Hardiplank.

2. I will get killed with this question but I have to ask. Menards currently has a sale on 3/4" x 8" x 12’ beveled cedar siding. (Kiln dried, select Tight knot Grade...however that compares to an industry standard) It’s from Mary River lumber Company. I looked at the wood and unless I just don’t know what cedar should look like I really wouldn’t want my shed to be sided with this stuff....wavy and overall exposed edges missing areas on 1 out of 4 boards. Ok a lot of the pieces where the worst of the bunch but I looked at some of the packaged stuff and it didn’t look that great either. The original price for roughly 1800 square feet was 5,657 USD and the sales price is 2,682. Does anyone have experience using this brand? I will stain so I don’t need clear cedar!

3. What amount of waste should I expect from Cedar siding in regards to waste from the mill. I understand I will have water with the actual project, but what is the percentage of boards are no good from start.

Thats the first round of questions and thanks for helping out.

Giles


Last edited by vtwingiles; 09-10-2012 at 09:24 AM.
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Old 09-10-2012, 04:48 PM   #2
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There’s nothing wrong with products from the Marys River Mills. .75 a lf for X 8 is a very good deal, almost suspicious. Damage should be minimal, expect to lose a an inch or two on the ends of some of due to splits. If I needed a pile of 14’ boards, I’d get 16’s. Usually any other damage (if any) is caused by truck straps or that idiot on the forklift and can usually be cut out for smaller pieces or last coarse rips.

Never heard of Maxiplank, Hardie has been the industry leader for fiber cement. If you’re worried about wavy siding then FC may not be for you. I’d suggest looking a few big walls of FC “up close” before you decide.

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Last edited by kwikfishron; 09-10-2012 at 07:14 PM.
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:04 PM   #3
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if you do use cedar do not nail through the piece below on the lap. cedar moves up to 3/8" throughout the year depending on environment and will split at the top if nailed wrong. if you are having to replace cedar siding why go back with more of it, would hardie last longer and be a better choice?
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:55 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by kwikfishron View Post
Theres nothing wrong with products from the Marys River Mills. .75 a lf for X 8 is a very good deal, almost suspicious. Damage should be minimal, expect to lose a an inch or two on the ends of some of due to splits. If I needed a pile of 14 boards, Id get 16s. Usually any other damage (if any) is caused by truck straps or that idiot on the forklift and can usually be cut out for smaller pieces or last coarse rips.

Never heard of Maxiplank, Hardie has been the industry leader for fiber cement. If youre worried about wavy siding then FC may not be for you. Id suggest looking a few big walls of FC up close before you decide.
Thank you very much for the incite! I agree with the 16 foot boards. Price goes up a little after 16 but this brings up the next round of questions.

1. Is there a "typical Board size to use for longer or shorter runs? For instance the side of my house is estimated 29 foot and the back runs are 60 + feet. Would a contractor order board sizes based on the lenght of the run or get 16 foot boards becasue they are easier to work with or get 20 foot boards as you will have less joints? or doesnt it really matter? Price difference for the whole project to go from 16 to 20 foot boards is under 400 so price is really not the driver. I just wonder what would look best, minimize waste, and be easist to work with.

2. Does anyone prime all 6 sides of the cedar? Then paint only the font side once its up?

3. Anyone use flashing behind joints?

Again thanks for the info and looks like I might try out the cedar. As you said its really a great deal......even when I type it I revert back to everything else in life that seemd like a great deal! But the worst is I get it and its crap and I send it back.
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:05 AM   #5
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if you do use cedar do not nail through the piece below on the lap. cedar moves up to 3/8" throughout the year depending on environment and will split at the top if nailed wrong. if you are having to replace cedar siding why go back with more of it, would hardie last longer and be a better choice?
Great advice and I agree 100 percent.

Price is the main driver on using Cedar vs Hardie. I really dont know why I read everywhere online that cedar is so much more expesive then hardiplank. Sure clear cedar might be but the quck calculations I have done for Hardieplank have it more expensive.

I can argue with the fact there would be a lot less maintenance with Hardie Plank, but I need to paint it anyway as the color I need will be "special". It just seems like a pain to install.....pre drilled holes, cutting, etc.

I also have 1 inch foil backed foam with no "Hard" Exterier. I assume it will be a nightmare keeping this stuff looking good. Cedar has its natural imperfections that hide this better.......This is an opinion.....as I cant really say one way or the other.

Price
Ease of installation
Look

Thanks and best regards from Fort Wayne
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Old 09-13-2012, 08:28 AM   #6
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Well, if you want that price on the cedar at the green store you better hurry, that sale ends Sunday.

Im still a little suspicious of that price especially since one of Marys mills was gutted by fire a month ago. You would think with a mill shut down there would be less supply and the price would go up before down but who knows.

Sure Id love to have nothing but long stock delivered to the job but it just doesnt happen that way. Cedar is a random length product so when ordering large quantities youll end up with a variety of lengths and is not uncommon to see a bundle or two of 6 in there too. May be different at Menards but I doubt it.

If youre going to paint be sure to use a slow drying oil based primer or you may have problems with knot and tannins bleed. As far as priming both sides there are many here that will say yes, you must do it but Im not one of them. You may want to start a new thread in the painting section of this site and ask that question.

Yes, always flash the butt joints.
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:18 PM   #7
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http://www.articlesbase.com/home-and...ng-131102.html

pp. 65; http://books.google.com/books?id=iwS...rafter&f=false

Post #10, I left some links; Any reason not to put on an inch of foamboard insulation under new siding?

Gary

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