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sandyman720 08-09-2007 02:50 PM

Siding and Brick veeneer wall?
I am building an addition and I would like to have a 3 foot brick veneer then siding from there up.

I have the sheathing covered w. Tyvek now. Do I put something over the tyvek and then the brick? Or do I just leave the brick off of the tyvek and put in anchors every so often?

What about where the siding j channel meets the top of the brick wall. Just caulk?


concretemasonry 08-09-2007 03:29 PM

Put weeps in at the bottom of the brick veneer. Flash up and under your primary moisture barrier (Tyvek) to shed the water.

Caulking in the wrong place can keep the water in and prevent it from exiting. In this case, it goes down until it hits a barrier and often goes inside.

Neither the brick or the vinyl siding is a primary moisture barrier, so you have to assume there will be moisture behind the vinyl. That is why they describe installing vinyl siding as "hanging it".

Ron6519 08-09-2007 03:36 PM

Put tar paper behind the brick veneer and drop it down partially over the brick ledge. This way if water get in behind, it rolls down the tar paper and out the weep holes at the bottom of the brick.
The siding should overlap the brick, not come down on top of it in the same plane. Actually the sheathing should overlap the brick and the siding drop below the sheathing by 1/2-3/4". This way the brick doesn't get water behind it from above. You can cap the plywood edge if you want to keep it protected.

sandyman720 08-09-2007 04:13 PM

Hi Guys,

My sheathing is already up. I do not have a ledge for the brick. I was just going to bolt angle iron to the foundation and then build the wall from there.

So the siding will but right up to the top of the brick. I understand how to put the weep holes (just leave the morter out of a couple of joints correct?)

Not sure how to put flashing up underneath the tyvek though.

Do you have any pics showing the process?

This is the pic of what I want to do:

concretemasonry 08-09-2007 04:15 PM

You can put on tar paper if you choose, but the Tyvek should be adequate.

If you do use tarpaper, you must put it under the Tyvek shingle-style so it will shed the water and not collect it. Keep in mind that your Tyvek is still the primary moisture barrier.

Often, you cannot have the vinyl lapping over a veneer. Because of this, make sure the mason slopes the rowlock on top of the veneer to shed the water outward.

Depending on your situation, you can always slip some flashing under the Tyvek and direct the water out and over the veneer.

Do not (EVER!) rely on tarpaper for flashing since it can become brittle and cause huge problems.

Above all, make sure you have weeps unless you want to force the water inward.

jogr 08-10-2007 01:54 PM

Doesn't he need a 1" gap between the brick and the rainbarrier?

concretemasonry 08-10-2007 03:33 PM

Siding and Brick veeneer wall?
Sorry, but I missed that obvious one. You definitely need an air gap between the brick and the primary moisture barrier. That is what lets things dry out.

If you nail anything directly to the moisture barrier without a gap, you lose that benefit and are more susceptable to moisture/mold problems. - The real big problem is around/over/under windows that are commonly not installed correctly.

Tscarborough 08-10-2007 07:22 PM

Here is a crappy drawing showing you the important details:

sandyman720 08-13-2007 11:49 AM

Nice Drawing!

How often do you have to put the brick ties?

Also, I thought weep holes were vertical slots between the bricks every so often. This looks like they are horizontal?

Tscarborough 08-13-2007 04:02 PM

12-16 O.C. vertically, 24" O.C. horizontally, non-seismic. Weeps can be tubes inserted at the bottom of the mortar joints, or just leaving the mortar out of head joints. Plastic tubes with a cotton tail and copper screen are my preferred type.

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