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Old 04-15-2011, 01:49 PM   #1
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is this siding any good?


http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1

Does anyone have any experience with the quality or durability of this product? Considering using it on my shed-

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Old 04-15-2011, 01:59 PM   #2
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is this siding any good?


Iíve hauled plenty of it to the dump.

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Old 04-15-2011, 02:11 PM   #3
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is this siding any good?


I see a similar product at Home Depot (Lowes isn't here yet). Pros & cons are that, although it may stand up to weather, bugs, etc. it isn't cheap. Also, if it scratches, the scratch is there for good. Plus, it has to be painted. It is similar to wood decking, be sure you ask all the right questions before you buy. Another point to consider is where you live. Does the product shrink & expand with temperature changes? Does it split or crack under cold? It is cost effective? Personally, I like a quality vinyl siding that can be installed easily, can be repaired if needed, offers a wide variety of profiles and colors, and is probably less costly than what you're looking at.
Primary advice is to do a little more research.
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Old 04-15-2011, 02:55 PM   #4
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is this siding any good?


kwik-would you use t1-11 over this?
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Old 04-15-2011, 03:18 PM   #5
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is this siding any good?


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Originally Posted by drummabouy View Post
kwik-would you use t1-11 over this?
Yes I would.

Stay away from any siding that’s made of sawdust, woodchips, and glue. No matter who sells it or what size or shape it comes in.
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Last edited by kwikfishron; 04-15-2011 at 03:29 PM.
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Old 04-15-2011, 04:47 PM   #6
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is this siding any good?


I agree with Kwikfishron about composite products. I built a shed using the 5.8" T-111 siding in 1996. Primed and painted with Behr and there's not an issue with any part of it.
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Old 04-15-2011, 05:07 PM   #7
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is this siding any good?


As with all panelized siding, the devil is in there details - in this case, mostly the flashing details; LP says "Apply siding in a manner that prevents moisture intrusion" and "LP will assume no responsibility for water penetration".
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Old 04-15-2011, 05:52 PM   #8
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As with all panelized siding, the devil is in there details - in this case, mostly the flashing details; LP says "Apply siding in a manner that prevents moisture intrusion" and "LP will assume no responsibility for water penetration".
Well thatís one way to avoid another class action lawsuit.

Much easier than making a better product.
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:39 PM   #9
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is this siding any good?


You guys can thrash Smartside all you want. I had my reservations as well, until I built a shed for my father in law with it. No sheathing, just Smartside over studs. After seeing it hold up, year after year, I decided to use it on my own shed.

I've been in construction professionally since 1983, right out of High School.

I've seen many products come and go and have witnessed first hand why they fail.

BTW, I used engineered flooring and roof sheathing on my shed as well.
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Old 04-15-2011, 10:33 PM   #10
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is this siding any good?


loneframer,
so you're saying the shed in your pictures uses the stuff in my original post from lowes?

if so, please answer:
  1. how old is the shed?
  2. did you paint it?
  3. can you cut the stuff with a jig saw and circular saw?
  4. do you nail it directly to studs?
  5. what kind of nails do you use?
  6. do you need to predrill for them?
  7. are there any special precautions you need to take to keep water from hitting the edges of the panels?
Thanks-I'm basically trying to find out what my best option for a kid's playhouse/shed like structure are and i'm hearing t1-11, vinyl, and this stuff. Ive heard this stuff is fine and others say it totally sucks, so it's tough for me to figure out the truth!!
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Old 04-15-2011, 10:54 PM   #11
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is this siding any good?


Quote:
Originally Posted by drummabouy View Post
loneframer,
so you're saying the shed in your pictures uses the stuff in my original post from lowes?

if so, please answer:
  1. how old is the shed?
  2. did you paint it?
  3. can you cut the stuff with a jig saw and circular saw?
  4. do you nail it directly to studs?
  5. what kind of nails do you use?
  6. do you need to predrill for them?
  7. are there any special precautions you need to take to keep water from hitting the edges of the panels?
Thanks-I'm basically trying to find out what my best option for a kid's playhouse/shed like structure are and i'm hearing t1-11, vinyl, and this stuff. Ive heard this stuff is fine and others say it totally sucks, so it's tough for me to figure out the truth!!
I just built the shed in the pics about 2 weeks ago.

I was planning on spraying the shed this weekend, if the weather is good.

The material cuts like plywood, but it's more dense, use a good, sharp blade and eye/hearing protection.

I nailed mine directly to the studs,. Be careful to lay out properly, in order to get nailing where you need it.

I used ring shank stainless steel collated nails and a Bostitch coil siding nailer. If you are going to hand nail, predrilling will save you some sore muscles and possibly a couple of blackened finger nails. Predrilling doesn't take much longer, all things considered. I'd use stainless steel ring shank nails with a small head and 2" length, minimum. Maze is a brand I trust.

As for water intrusion, I recommend keeping the bottom well above grade, along with a good coat of primer and finish paint on the unfinished edges.

If you'll notice, my gable sheets overlap the wall sheets, rather than using a flashing detail. Lapping the sheets eliminates the possibility of water and dirt collecting in the flashing and wicking into the edge of the product.

In the pictures, you'll see I didn't install any trim on the doors or gables. I want to get a good coat of finish on everything first, then trim it out. The trim will conceal the hinge bolts, adding to the security of the shed. The doors won't swing a full 180 degrees, but that's not an issue for me.

I didn't back-prime the siding because I feel it's better to allow air circulation on the unfinished side.

BTW, I bought mine from Lowe's. The product at HD looked similar, but had a hardboard backing instead of OSB.
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Last edited by loneframer; 04-15-2011 at 11:31 PM. Reason: corrected proper nail length
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Old 04-16-2011, 08:52 AM   #12
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is this siding any good?


lone
thanks for the specific clear answers to all my questions

how do i handle the corners of the building where 2 pieces of siding meet at a ninety?

what do i need to do at open windows and doors? how do i trim them to prevent damage? does the fact that i'll have open windows in the playhouse that some rain will get in preclude me from using this stuff? if some rain gets in the window and gets the backs of the panels wet, will it ruin them?

is this the exact product you used? http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1

Anything else I should be considering?

Thanks again--
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Old 04-16-2011, 09:25 AM   #13
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is this siding any good?


Quote:
Originally Posted by drummabouy View Post
lone
thanks for the specific clear answers to all my questions

how do i handle the corners of the building where 2 pieces of siding meet at a ninety?

what do i need to do at open windows and doors? how do i trim them to prevent damage? does the fact that i'll have open windows in the playhouse that some rain will get in preclude me from using this stuff? if some rain gets in the window and gets the backs of the panels wet, will it ruin them?

is this the exact product you used? http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1

Anything else I should be considering?

Thanks again--
Yes, Louisiana-Pacific Smartside.

If you'll have open windows, will your floor be done with treated lumber and spaced decking for drainage? I recommend treated lumber for wall framing as well.

If so, I would take the time to prime all edges and back side of the product, as well as a coat of finish, or attach Tyvek or Typar to the bare studs to create a water resistant barrier, eliminating direct contact of water on the siding. Be sure to install the product facing in rather than out. I'm not sure if those products are direction specific, but to be safe....

As for the corners, I ran mine as tight as possible. All joints will get a bead of elastomeric sealant, then painted with finish. I'll probably trim everything with Azek PVC trim, which I used on my house when I resided.

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Last edited by loneframer; 04-16-2011 at 09:27 AM.
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