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Old 07-09-2012, 05:10 PM   #1
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help - with so much siding to chose from - which is some of the best to use on my 1300 sq-ft home, 100 miles south of chicago - so i goes through 4 climate changes, thanks - mike

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Old 07-09-2012, 06:42 PM   #2
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help - with so much siding to chose from - which is some of the best to use on my 1300 sq-ft home, 100 miles south of chicago - so i goes through 4 climate changes, thanks - mike
Well that’s an easy one. Clear Western Red Cedar with a quality slow drying oil based primer and two coats of a quality latex paint.

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Old 07-09-2012, 07:23 PM   #3
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There is still no comparison between quality cedar, redwood or cypress siding and even top of the line vinyl. Wood just breathes and flexes better with seasonal changes and wood looks like wood. I have stripped paint off 100 or more year old cedar, redwood and cypress, primed and painted or re-stained. Maintained, the siding should easily last another 100!

I have seen some vinyl that looks nice but most is pretty tacky---especially the budget stuff. And contrary to claims you never have to do anything but clean it, the lower end stuff can turn brittle or fade or discolor fast. If not installed properly it can trap moisture underneath it.

Some other synthetics are nicer than extruded vinyl in my opinion. I do understand vinyl has its place though and careful color selection can help make it palatable.

I guess it depends on what your budget can handle? A real building supply company and not a box store is likely to haven nicer material choices or they will order for you.

The good news is at 1300sf your house is not huge. Make sure you pick a style and width siding that matches your house! If your home calls for a semi-transparent stained look you will definitely want to go with wood.
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:26 PM   #4
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How about fiber cement siding (e.g. CertainTeed)? How does this compare redwood siding, especially for houses in San Francisco (foggy, lots of moisture in the air, close to ocean, lots of rain in winter..etc.)? Would redwood siding still the best choice? I have heard from some contractors that the redwood quality these days are NOT as good as 10-20 years ago... Thoughts or comments about this? Thanks!
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:45 PM   #5
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ive installed most types of siding.. standard vinyl is hideos.. but the cedar select vinyl that looks like shingles is pretty sharp but pricey. shingles are also nice but quite costly especially if you use prefinished waska r&r's. clapboard works

certainteed fibre cement is absolute garbage compared to harti. certainteed is nowhere near as durable.. this time last year i had to install it on patios of a 86 unit apartment building.. we tried hand nailing it shattered..gun nailing it shattered. screwing it it shattered.. looked at it.. it shattered.. with harti the only issue ive ever had is trying to get color match caulking the same time as the siding showing up

celex siding is a brand new product which our company was used as a test installer to figure out possible issues it would have.. terrible trim design.. the spec'd flashing detail is a joke. the siding itself is ok but they need a redesign on the trim and flashing details

can exel is a masonite type product with a rear flange that sets the reveal.. its supposed to give the same exposure every time though it varies do to the back flange flexing. its dirty to cut too like fibre cement.wear a mask
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:22 PM   #6
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I know that for most siding it would require at least 6" of clearance between the board (siding) and the ground. For redwood siding, does it still require 6" of clearance? Let's say that if we really can NOT meet with that 6" clearance requirement, what type of material would be best for siding that would be most water resistant (without installing extra "exposed" stainless flashing)?? Thanks!
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Old 11-10-2012, 03:39 AM   #7
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Here is a close-up photo from the inside, you can see that from long long time ago when the previous owner first built the house extension, they had added up the concrete foundation...
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:23 AM   #8
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help - with so much siding to chose from - which is some of the best to use on my 1300 sq-ft home, 100 miles south of chicago - so i goes through 4 climate changes, thanks - mike

is this a new home or are you changing the siding over to something new?
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:56 AM   #9
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...Let's say that if we really can NOT meet with that 6" clearance requirement, what type of material would be best for siding that would be most water resistant (without installing extra "exposed" stainless flashing)?? Thanks!
In that instance, I would suggest a vinyl 1x of the appropriate width as a skirt to lap the siding over.
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Old 11-10-2012, 03:08 PM   #10
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"SECTION R317 PROTECTION OF WOOD AND WOOD BASED PRODUCTS AGAINST DECAY

R317.1 Location required. Protection of wood and wood based products from decay shall be provided in the following locations by the use of naturally durable wood or wood that is preservative-treated in accordance with AWPA U1 for the species, product, preservative and end use.

5. Wood siding, sheathing and wall framing on the exterior of a building having a clearance of less than 6 inches (152 mm) from the ground or less than 2 inches (51 mm) measured vertically from concrete steps, porch slabs, patio slabs, and similar horizontal surfaces exposed to the weather.' From: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...9_3_sec017.htm

This may be what you are searching for; "NATURALLY DURABLE WOOD. The heartwood of the following species with the exception that an occasional piece with corner sapwood is permitted if 90 percent or more of the width of each side on which it occurs is heartwood. Decay resistant. Redwood, cedar, black locust and black walnut. Termite resistant. Alaska yellow cedar, redwood, Eastern red cedar and Western red cedar including all sapwood of Western red cedar." From: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_2_sec002.htm

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Old 11-10-2012, 10:02 PM   #11
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is this a new home or are you changing the siding over to something new?
No it's NOT a new home. It's a house that was built in 1935. However, the part that we are fixing right now is the downstairs storage room, which is a house extension for the upstairs sun room (my guess is that it was probably added in the 1960s)... We are changing the siding over to something new as the skirt of the current plywood (t1-11) siding is rotten...

Regarding to Evstarr's idea to use vinyl 1x of the appropriate width as a skirt to lap the siding over.. the problem is that for vinyl siding I believe they are usually NOT paintable.. .is this correct? Is vinyl siding skirt more decay-resistant then preservative-treated Redwood siding? What about if we use another L-(or Z-) shaped flashing as the skirt on the new redwood siding (BodyGuard Wood siding), would that work? Would that be overkill since the BodyGuard wood seems to be preservative-treated and has 30 year warranty over decay and termite? Thoughts or comments? Thanks!


Last edited by ohman; 11-10-2012 at 10:36 PM.
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