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Old 03-09-2007, 12:42 PM   #61
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Showing off my basement framing pics......


I understand what you mean about the lift only lifting it to the approximate area that you want. I know I will have to manouver the drywall into place, and that is where my husband comes in to help.

(He better, or else, I won't be very "yummy" )
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:45 PM   #62
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Showing off my basement framing pics......


it is not regard to your bit, it is the equipment, to drive in screws into wood, it require force... whether it turn slow or fast, it is still large turning force... hammer drill is no difference from a regular drill with the exception of hammering action (vertical)... a drill has a lot of power, but most these power is in the form of speed, not turning force... it is exactly like drive a manual car, you won't put in on speed 5 for low speed driving....

it doesn't mean you cannot drive in some screws with drill, but your drill will suddenly not moving and at that time you will know what I meant... I had that experience with a right angle drill before, try to use it to drive a screw at tight spot... and it was a goner...
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:48 PM   #63
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You are very knowledgeable in the area.
I am going to listen to you and not do that.
I thought that it would be OK to just attach a bit and away I go.

I think I am starting to think that I need to start looking for that Makita drywall screw drill. (or whatever it's called).
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:49 PM   #64
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try hang one drywall with your husband holding it and some support... you will see ... another reason is drywall surface is so delicate and you want the screw and the drywall hole in good intact, hand drive will most likely weaken that part and your drywall will not hold as firm vs power drive...
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Old 03-09-2007, 01:09 PM   #65
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don't be tempt by buying a less cost regular power screw driver.... "Drywall Screwgun" can do what regular screw gun do but not the vice versa...

The ability of Drywall Screwgun able to set the depth automatically for you when hanging drywall, solve 90% of the drywall screwing challenge for you, as setting right depth is the most difficult job when screwing drywall screws... especially when you need to do that 2000 times... don't believe yourself you will have the patient to do it carefully...even you do... you will never done a as good job...
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Old 03-09-2007, 01:13 PM   #66
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Showing off my basement framing pics......


I was thinking that because drywall is so delicate and you don't want the screw to break the paper, then what better way to do that then to have complete control when you are screwing it in.

I guess, I should not be commenting because I have still not tried it.
You have much more experience than me when it comes to drywalling.

Hopefully, one of these days I will try.


Also, what size screws do you need for the 1/2 inch drywall?

I have some scrap drywall pieces that the contractors left behind, and I want to try to put one in.
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Old 03-09-2007, 01:14 PM   #67
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Next time I go to HD, I will take a look at the drywall screw gun.
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Old 03-09-2007, 01:25 PM   #68
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If my memory is still good... is what I remember....

but it was the most common type and you saw them everywhere in HD....
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Old 03-09-2007, 01:46 PM   #69
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I have seen the drywall screws but I did not know which length to use.

I saw different lengths.


Thanks for all your time and help kui****g.
You are a great help to me, sharing your experiences
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Old 03-09-2007, 02:30 PM   #70
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I have not been following your whole discussion on this page, but I caught the last 2 posts about drywall screws. For standard 1/2" sheetrock on wood framing - you want 1 1/4" course thread drywall screws. Depending on how many sheets you are going to install....I would suggest getting a 5 pound box to start off with ...
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Old 03-09-2007, 02:52 PM   #71
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If you are going to be using a 'drill' to install your screws to sheetrock, purchase a drywall 'bit' attachment. This will keep the screw head from sinking too far in and 'breaking' the paper surface....

The issue brought up about 'buring out' your drill revolves around this:

When you are driving the drywall screw in...it enters the sheetrock easily and then suddenly hits the wood framing which raises the torque (since it is denser material). So the concern is that if you are going to attach hundreds and hundreds of sheets of sheetrock, you will eventually burn the motor out because it was not designed to have that kind of stress put on it (The constant heavy torqing - 'on' and 'off' of the motor)
Analogy: It's like taking your car out to the highway, getting it up to 55 and then using the gear shift to drop it down to a lower gear, then putting it back in drive, getting it up to 55 again and dropping it down to a lower gear...again,.... & Doing this over, and over, and over... It would not be long before you would be kissing the transmission good bye.

I don't think that the amount of sheets that you will probably be installing in your basement (at the pace that you will be doing it) will put that much strain on your drill.

The big difference with screw guns is that they have a built in coupling that dissengages the drive shaft of the drill when it reaches a certain torque. This action, takes all the strain nad stress off of the motor. We have screw guns that are 10 years old that are still working fine. If we had drills that were put thru what those 10 year old screw guns were put thru...forget it, they would have been dead along time ago.

Last edited by AtlanticWBConst.; 03-09-2007 at 03:18 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 03-09-2007, 03:08 PM   #72
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Atlantic, as usual, you provide an excellent explanation on how drills can be burned.

Considering that I will be going at a slow pace, would a drill bit suffice for my hammer drill?

I don't really want to burn the drill.
But I still have to try just doing it by hand.
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Old 03-09-2007, 03:17 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yummy mummy View Post
Atlantic, as usual, you provide an excellent explanation on how drills can be burned.

Considering that I will be going at a slow pace, would a drill bit suffice for my hammer drill?

I don't really want to burn the drill.
But I still have to try just doing it by hand.

Does your 'hammer drill' have a selector switch on it use it as a normal drill?
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Old 03-09-2007, 04:24 PM   #74
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Sorry, I missed the part about it being a hammer drill. I don't know much about the hammer drills, just my every day corded cheap drill.

It sounds to me like you need a new drill. Whether or not you actually do need one is irrelevant. Who ever said you need a rock solid reason for going out and buying more tools? As far as I am concerned, I DO need 5 claw hammers.
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Old 03-09-2007, 05:33 PM   #75
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Showing off my basement framing pics......


Hey Yummy - that looks great! You sure are adding some major equity to your house.
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