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Old 03-05-2007, 10:10 AM   #16
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Showing off my basement framing pics......


Thanks Kui****g

I have not put anything against the concrete walls.
(Other than hydraulic cement, where needed)

I have also moved the new walls (my framing) 3 inches away from the cement walls.

I think that should be OK?

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Old 03-05-2007, 10:12 AM   #17
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What if I put 2X4's inbetween the 2X2s that are already there now.

Would that work, in terms of sagging?
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Old 03-05-2007, 10:14 AM   #18
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3 inches, that is quite some spaces... how do you hold the insulation from falling off to this 3 inches space then? just curious....

I suppose if you have that 3" space, you are kind of protect from getting mold then... although I really didn't see people doing that before... but other than use up some space... I don't see any issue with that...
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Old 03-05-2007, 10:58 AM   #19
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I had to move in 3 inches because of piping that was behind.

The insulation sits right inbetween the wood studs snuggly and does not move.

When I needed to cut insulation to fit more narrow spaces, I just cut it about 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch wider,and then I got a nice snug fit.
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Old 03-05-2007, 11:02 AM   #20
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thanks for the reply... I would guess this is the case ...

anyhow, one last comment... for those piping which will touch the insulation... may be you should consider insulating them to avoid water condensation in the summer... touching the insulation... if they are of cold water pipes...well that is if you have big temperature difference... which not necessary always so may be you don't need it...
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Old 03-05-2007, 11:17 AM   #21
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They are gas pipes that run along the top.
So insulating not really an issue.

And one of them is a plastic drain pipe which I did not insulate, and I don't think it should be a problem, hopefully.


How about your pictures, Kui****g.
I would love to see them.
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Old 03-05-2007, 11:20 AM   #22
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yes I am too lazy for those computer picture stuff... I just moved my washer/dryer to the new laundry room and get my two wash cycle done yesterday... on my rock solid marble tiles.... I like it a lot... marble tiles is a big different...

anyhow... I will finish the toilet and pedersin sink... then I will take picture...for sure... should be within this week....
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Old 03-05-2007, 01:21 PM   #23
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Marble in the laundry room.
Now that is classy. Must look really nice.

Your basement renovation must be really nice.
Mine is not as detailed as yours.

I decided to put no bathroom. (Too much to learn ) Maybe in my next project

My basement basically is one large room, and a smaller room.
With my laundry area sealed off and my furnace sealed off.
Very simple.

I have two concrete columns to deal with still.
I was thinking of putting mirror (tiles or not), so it would look like
they will disappear. I will leave that till the end.

I am about ready to start my other small room.
Very straight forward.

Perimeter walls, and soffit that runs against top two walls.
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Old 03-05-2007, 01:28 PM   #24
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Marble tiles is no difference in laying as with regular tile, the only difference is cutting, it takes longer to cut, but with wet saw, it is like cut like plastic, and no dangers at all... it just need more time... but the result is tremendas different from regular tiles... I will never lay anything else in bathroom if I am the one doing the project... it just too good to pass... materials cost is minimum consider there aren't much marbles inside a washroom/laundry room anyway... the main cost is still labour cost in cutting... but DIY makes that nothing...
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Old 03-05-2007, 01:35 PM   #25
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Your wife, and my husband are lucky that we are DIYers.
Don't you think?

I need your opinion on cutting ceramic tiles.
I guess I have to buy some sort of tile cutter.

Are they electric or is there something that I can use that is by hand?

I still have not researched any of that, since I am not ready for that yet.


Any advice for me?
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Old 03-05-2007, 01:39 PM   #26
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If you are going to lay your whole basement with tiles, you need a good quality hand cutter, don't buy the cheap one from HD, get a good quality one at low price from the internet or get a good quality expensive one from HD....

options is , also buy a used Makita 9.6V wet saw, this guy is supper in cutting curves in tiles rather than use regular hand biting clamp...


these two tools is all you need for cutting tiles... you don't need wet saw, unless you also use marbles...

and my wife didn't really appreciate it (at least she didn't say so), keep asking me to pay for someone to do it... in order not to use up my time... she doesn't know there are more to this .... besides $$...

Last edited by KUIPORNG; 03-05-2007 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 03-05-2007, 02:02 PM   #27
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My husband, does not want to hire anyone, and does not want to do it either, (besides the fact that he really does not know what he is doing.

I am better at DIY things.

Thanks for the advice on the tile cutter.
When the time comes, I will search for a good one.
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Old 03-05-2007, 04:49 PM   #28
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I do know what I am talking about. It is not code to have a basement vapor barrier where I live.

"In cold climates, the moisture load in the winter months is primarily from the interior, so roof and wall assemblies are generally designed to dry primarily to the exterior. Wintertime condensation control can be facilitated by elevating the temperature of the first condensing surface (the back side of the exterior sheathing) via the use of insulating sheathing. When XPS (with relatively low permeability) is used, then only slow drying is available to the exterior. Accordingly, the majority of drying occurs to the interior during the summer months. Therefore, interior vapor barriers should not be installed."

go see: http://www.buildingscience.com/bsc/d...es/chicago.htm
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Old 03-05-2007, 04:57 PM   #29
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don't know much about the technology... they are so confusing... different opinions everywhere... may be what you said is related to other thing like "double barrier"... anyhow... we just do what the goveronment said... the goveronment could be wrong too...
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Old 03-05-2007, 04:58 PM   #30
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We are talking about a finished basement-from an engineering standpoint, this exterior wall is entirely different than the above grade exterior wall. Air movement will occur above grade. You will have drying to the outside above grade.
You will not have drying to the exterior below grade. You will always have a concrete wall with a higher than average moisture content. It is cold, in winter and summer, and water molecules will condense on the inside of your poly sheet wher it will have no place to escape!

You can do what you want, I am only offering friendly advice. This is a technologically superior option for below grade construction.

I think it is unfair to blast me by saying I dont know what I am talking about. There are many many contractors who have no idea what they are doing!

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