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-   -   Shower floor slope (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/shower-floor-slope-4747/)

Not Sure 11-11-2006 07:28 AM

Shower floor slope
 
Hi! Hopefully, this will be one of my last questions for this house. I thought I had just about every problem resolved. Then, last night, a new problem popped up. My tile person was finishing up my job. The last thing to be tiled in the house was the shower floor. Guess what? Oh, yeah! The shower floor is not quite even. It has a little hump here and a little dip there. The tile layer went ahead and put the tile down, floated it some, will grout tomorrow morning (which is now, this morning), and test to see if the floor will drain properly. No, my current tile layer did not put down the required liner or the portland/sand mix in the bottom of the shower. Another tile layer started the job, but ended up working overtime for his regular job and was not able to do my job after all. So, I hired another person for the job.

If the shower will not drain properly, will I have to have the tile and all the portland/sand mixture removed all the way down to the liner? Will it have to be totally removed? Is there an easy way to solve this problem?

I'm crossing my fingers that the floor will drain properly!!!

P.S. Should this be a plumbing post or maybe a flooring post, instead of a building & construction post?

Ron The Plumber 11-11-2006 09:47 AM

Tile shower floor should be sloped 1/4" per ft towards the drain, sounds like you got a problem.

Not Sure 11-13-2006 07:15 AM

Today, I'll go by the house after work and test the shower to see if I have a draining problem. I thought I'd better let the grout dry well before running the water.

My spouse wondered if a stack of tile left on the shower floor for a long period of time could have made the low spot in front of the drain...
Then, we started wondering, which tile layer left the stack? Isn't the build up under the tile softer than regular cement?

Hummmmm?

Not Sure 11-16-2006 08:58 AM

Yes, I've got a problem. The area just in front of the shower drain does retain some water. More than I would like. The tile layer told me, "I've seen worse pass inspection." My dad says not to worry. If the shower floor doesn't pass, we'll deal with it then. I just want the shower floor to be right from the get-go!

Just a reminder: The tile layer that finished the job isn't the person that started the job. The last tile layer doesn't want to deal with the fix. Just curious.... A good-sized stack of tile was placed on the shower floor for a couple of weeks until the shower was tiled. If the portlant/sand mix wasn't totally dry, would this have caused my problem? Just want to know not what to do when the next house gets started!

I think I have a really good guy that will come and redo the shower floor if need be, but he hates to do tile work. He prefers to lay wood floors, but does have experience with tile.

Hopefully, this will be the last surprise problem!

ncor 11-18-2006 10:38 PM

every time you enter that shower you will notice this defect.
every day that floor retains water soap scum dirt you will notice this defect.
tear it out .
a shower floor when done properly will easily hold the weight of a tubby tiler; a box of tiles shouldnt deform your floor.

Not Sure 11-20-2006 05:36 AM

It was suggested to me that the job might be as simple as tearing out the bottom tile and maybe the bottom layer of the wall tile. (The bottom tile was cut down to 4 inch by 4 inch and the wall tile is 13 inch by 13 inch.) Then, put in a leveling type compund and shape it toward the drain with the proper slope. (I think he said a leveling compound.) Then, retile the bottom and the lower walls.

Another person suggested that I needed tear out the bottom and the lower wall tiles. Remove all the sloping cement mixture to the liner. Do a whole new build up. Then, retile.

Have you ever heard of the top method? Both were suggested by people that lay tile?

Not Sure 11-20-2006 05:42 AM

Oh, I should also say that the liner required is a flexible, rubber looking mat. It is applied over the regular cement before the build-up cement stuff. It is not a PVC looking pan that is firm.

mighty anvil 11-20-2006 03:29 PM

The best way to build a shower floor is to slope the waterproof pan to the drain in order to reduce the amount of the tile mortar bed that is exposed to water and to encourage absorbed water to move toward the drain and for the system to dry more rapidly. If you can find a shower installer who knows this you will get a longer lasting more odor free shower.

Not Sure 11-21-2006 10:49 PM

Great suggestion, Mighty Anvil!

I will at least have a suggestion to the tile layer if I have to rebuild that shower! Maybe, the tile layer will already know "the trick."

Peggy Sue 05-28-2008 01:14 PM

My Shower Floor Does Not Slope Either
 
We have just finished a huge bathroom project with slate floor and wall tiles. Took the first shower, and the water does not drain into the floor drain. It is especially tense in our household, because one of us did not want to do the tiling as a DIY project but wanted to call in the professionals to at least do the shower pan. However, the other one of us insisted he could do anything and proceeded. Even though there is a one quarter inch slope toward the drain, the floor actually slopes slightly toward the outside wall and the person building the pan did not take this into consideration. Anyway, we are just about to end up in divorce court (literally) over this expensive project and now having a shower that does not drain properly. I have been told that I will just have to squeegee the water to the drain after each shower. Won't this problem only get worse?
Is there anyone like ghostbusters we can call to fix this mess? Does it require a jackhammer to repair?

Termite 05-28-2008 03:41 PM

Peggy Sue,
You should start a new thread in the forum to ensure that people see your question.
The answer is, unfortunately, that your shower was incorrectly built and needs to be re-done. The liner might be able to be salvaged, but you'll definately need a new mortar bed (properly sloped) and new tile. Does it require a jackhammer? No...Just a masonry chisel and a bad attitude!

phillipjohn 06-10-2008 12:12 PM

Greetings, I have done alot of shower pans,if there is any standing water the installer didnt do his job. The floor mud needs to come out,just the floor the sides (should be) ok. Be careful not to puncture the rubber pan as you take out the tile and mud. Floor mud from home depot is best to use,mud is mixed to resemble wet sand not poured like concrete,it is packed in good then screated to the drain, a 2ft level is used to judge pitch to drain, almost any pitch will drain water, but must be done evenly no dips or waves,the person you got didnt know what he was doing, one shouldnt practice in someone elses house.Get it redone ,paint a bonding agent over rubber pan before floormud goes in...suggest a 2x2 tile for floor,installer should pay for his shoddy work...good luck


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