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Old 09-28-2009, 11:07 AM   #1
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Shoring Up Exterior Wall Framing Questions


Hello,

I have made a few posts on this forum regarding some remodeling that my wife and I are doing on our cabin. The responses have been extremely helpful and I have learned a lot. I would probably classify us as experienced DIYers. Not pros by any means but we have tackled a lot.

This question has to do with exterior wall framing. This cabin is old. Built probably in the early to mid 70s. The bones are pretty good for the most part but the guy who originally built it cut corners and we are trying to fix as many of those as possible as we move ahead.

One thing that drives me crazy is that when you close the exterior doors, the walls adjacent to those doors vibrate/shake. We are going to be ripping off the current paneling to install new windows, spray foam insulation and install tongue and groove knotty pine. My question is, what can I do to shore up the framing to try to eliminate this shaking/rattling/vibration, every time the door closes? I want the walls to be solid as a rock. I like overkill. Will cross bracing between studs help? It’s typical 2X4 framing. Bottom plates and top plates. No balloon framing. What should I be looking for to “shore up? Add more studs maybe?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thank you.
Tom

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Old 09-28-2009, 11:39 AM   #2
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Shoring Up Exterior Wall Framing Questions


that's what my garage does but I thought that was cuz of no jack studs under the door header..just top plate, header, and then king stud..

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Old 09-28-2009, 03:31 PM   #3
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Shoring Up Exterior Wall Framing Questions


I presume the exterior wall has plywood or let-in 1x4 or 2x4 diagonal bracing every corner and every 25', if a one story. Then the shaking is from the wall studs needing more/better fasteners to the top and bottom plates. If excessive, and you want overkill, add some 4x6's as studs next to the king studs of the door jambs, or close to them. Or maybe it's a door problem in disguise... Add better weather-stripping to the door (test with a dollar bill as a refer or freezer) to cushion the closing. Replace/adjust the threshold weather-stripping rubber. OR, possibly it is too tight and needs the opposite.
Once the wall is exposed you will see the problem better. Mid-height solid blocking will help.
Be safe, Gary
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Old 09-28-2009, 03:44 PM   #4
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Shoring Up Exterior Wall Framing Questions


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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
I presume the exterior wall has plywood or let-in 1x4 or 2x4 diagonal bracing every corner and every 25', if a one story. Then the shaking is from the wall studs needing more/better fasteners to the top and bottom plates. If excessive, and you want overkill, add some 4x6's as studs next to the king studs of the door jambs, or close to them. Or maybe it's a door problem in disguise... Add better weather-stripping to the door (test with a dollar bill as a refer or freezer) to cushion the closing. Replace/adjust the threshold weather-stripping rubber. OR, possibly it is too tight and needs the opposite.
Once the wall is exposed you will see the problem better. Mid-height solid blocking will help.
Be safe, Gary
Thank you....

Unfortunately I am not experineced enough to answer all of your questions. It's 2X4 framing; no diagonal framing at all. Just top and bottom plates and studs 16 O.C. It was shaking and vibrating before we started any work. Now all of the entry doors have been fully replaced and framing re-supported by our contractor and the problem got a little better but i want it rock solid. The outside walls are just T-111 paneling. There is no sheathing at all. Just the outside T-111 paneling and studs. So adding cross bracing will help? Would it help to add some type of construction adhesive to the outside edge of the cross bracing that comes in contact with the T-111 in additon to screwing it to the existing studs horizontally?

Not exactly sure i follow what you mean about a 4X6 next to the door jamb king studs. Dumb questioin but where woud i get a 4X6 and what does it get attached to?
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Old 09-30-2009, 12:57 PM   #5
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Shoring Up Exterior Wall Framing Questions


The T-1-11 siding on your house is rated as the sheathing also. It is plenty strong, no worries there. Adding cross bracing will not help as that would be against end racking of the wall.
I understand your problem to be vibration and shake when the door is closed. This means the studs near the door are weak, loose, or flexing. You need to strengthen the studs from side push. Close the door, watching the top plate for movement. It should not move. You need stronger studs, either with more cross section resistance (2x6) or thicker (4x6), installed the 2x way like the rest. Nail them right next to the old ones (sistering) and securely top and bottom. You could use 4x4's but they are lighter and would not give the same heaviness to the wall.

The close cell sprayed foam will stiffen the wall incredibly, and give more rigidity to the door sections. Check outside for nails every 8" on center in the studs and plates, both vertically and horizontally. Add 8d hot dipped galvanized nails if needed. If accessible inside, push sideways on the studs for movement, there should be none. Look inside, next to the studs for air-nails (missed stud) that you see most of the nail inside the bay. Re-nail these.
Be safe, Gary
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Old 09-30-2009, 01:20 PM   #6
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Shoring Up Exterior Wall Framing Questions


Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
The T-1-11 siding on your house is rated as the sheathing also. It is plenty strong, no worries there. Adding cross bracing will not help as that would be against end racking of the wall.
I understand your problem to be vibration and shake when the door is closed. This means the studs near the door are weak, loose, or flexing. You need to strengthen the studs from side push. Close the door, watching the top plate for movement. It should not move. You need stronger studs, either with more cross section resistance (2x6) or thicker (4x6), installed the 2x way like the rest. Nail them right next to the old ones (sistering) and securely top and bottom. You could use 4x4's but they are lighter and would not give the same heaviness to the wall.

The close cell sprayed foam will stiffen the wall incredibly, and give more rigidity to the door sections. Check outside for nails every 8" on center in the studs and plates, both vertically and horizontally. Add 8d hot dipped galvanized nails if needed. If accessible inside, push sideways on the studs for movement, there should be none. Look inside, next to the studs for air-nails (missed stud) that you see most of the nail inside the bay. Re-nail these.
Be safe, Gary
Hi Gary,

Thank you so much. That is incredibly helpful and makes complete sense. I can defintiely do that.

So the 4X6 is essentially just four 2X4s sistered together? I was just wondering. That would take up a lot of space in one stud/wall cavity. Would i lose much there in R-value just having wood and no insulation? I know this would be basically solid wood for 6 inches but I just wondered if it makes a difference in R-value.

One other question I had. Someone told me once that when I add studs that i should put a bead of construction adhesive on the outside egde of the stud that will come in contact with the inside surface of the T-111. Would you recommend that in additon to nailing or should I just nail?

Thank you again for your help. I can't wait to do this and get those walls rock solid.

Tom.
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Old 09-30-2009, 05:55 PM   #7
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Shoring Up Exterior Wall Framing Questions


I was thinking more of a solid wood 4x6, nailed alongside an existing stud. Make sure the existing stud is toe-nailed as well as the new wood, top and bottom. This is your vibration problem--- stud to plate connections. The siding holds the studs together laterally (sideways) but only the connections (fasteners) hold the stud securely in the wall plane. Three more studs might do it, if each was toe-nailed as they were installed.
I have never heard of gluing T1-11 siding along with nailing (which is only required per code). One sheet of T1-11 on each corner and one every 25' is all required per wall to code. (on a single story house) All the rest between only make the wall that much stronger against high winds and seismic activity. You could solid (2x4) block the area, two rows, 2' apart-high and low, ONLY if you don't cc foam.
Be safe, Gary

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