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Old 12-21-2010, 12:21 PM   #1
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Sheet rock ceiling in basement and Web Trusses


I want to finish my basement. Currently the it has block wall and web trusses. On these trusses sits my first floor plywood base. I have couple of questions regarding finishing.

1. Can I attach Sheet rock ceiling directly to the web trusses or should I put some kind of 1x3 perpendicular to the web trusses and install sheet rock ceiling on that. I don't to cause any sturctural problem and okay with buying extra wood.

2. Should I put Fiber Glass insulation in the space provided between the strusses (I want to make my basement quite and warmer). Will foam board work and how?

3. If the suggestion is to install some kind of stripping on the web trusses, do I still need 2x4 blocking to the support walls which are running parallel to the joists (web trusses).

4. Before putting the walls, I am attaching foam board to the block wall and than put a 2 x 4 frame. One forum suggested to put fiber glass insulation between 2x4 to increase insulation. Is that recommended or i cn put a higher quality foam board?

5. How to attach pressure treated 2x4 to the concrete floor. I have had bad experience with tapcon screws i.e. their heads break while tightning (I guess the hole was not made properly). I'm looking for some nut-bolt solution or some kind of solution similar to drywall anchors.

6. Lastly, I read that we should leave some gap (1/2 inch?) between the top of the 2x4 wall frame and anchoring joist (web trusses, 2x4 blocking, or 1x3 strips etc). Is there some kind of brace which supports this expansion without me explcitly leaving a gap.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Ali

Kind of Web Trussed which I have..picture

(like this http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.wisconsintruss.com/images/floortrusses.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.wisconsintruss.com/&h=272&w=375&sz=43&tbnid=DE5pFVxUL0MXTM:&tbnh=88&t bnw=122&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dweb%2Btrusses&zoom=1&q=web+trusses&hl =en&usg=__OvoBwzpHskIL-brH1hvocf3qw4g=&sa=X&ei=kOoQTfLxCoOClAf_kpzZCw&ved =0CCYQ9QEwAg)

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Old 12-21-2010, 05:59 PM   #2
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Sheet rock ceiling in basement and Web Trusses


Ali---You asked a boat load of questions here----All have been answered many times--use the search button.

I'll answer a couple---Drywall ceiling--go ahead and attach the drywall to the bottom of the trusses--

No need for furring strips unless there is pipe or conduit attached to the bottom of the truss.


To attach the bottom plates to the floor --most people use 22.cal,stud gun---cost $25--or less fast and effective---kind of fun,too.

I build my walls leaving about 1" of space between the studs and the foundation--no foam,just kraft faced insulation between the studs---

That's my contribution---Ask a few less questions all at once and I think you will get faster response.

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i_syed (12-21-2010)
Old 12-21-2010, 06:32 PM   #3
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Sheet rock ceiling in basement and Web Trusses


"6. Lastly, I read that we should leave some gap (1/2 inch?) between the top of the 2x4 wall frame and anchoring joist (web trusses, 2x4 blocking, or 1x3 strips etc). Is there some kind of brace which supports this expansion without me explcitly leaving a gap."
I wouldn't unless you live in an area with very active soils from season to season that would require some flexibility; I think I remember Denver having soil like that.
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Old 12-21-2010, 08:02 PM   #4
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Sheet rock ceiling in basement and Web Trusses


Oh'mike is correct with his advice. Drywall attached directly to the trusses. Leaving the 1" space between foundation wall and your framing allows you to plumb your walls even if the foundation walls are not. Adding insulation in the ceiling joit "bays" (fiberglass batts) will help to deaden sound transfer "somewhat", but don't expect your home theater in the basement to not rattle the glasses on the first floor. It will help lessen heat transfer between the two floors, so it might help your utility bill (depends on how you use the spaces and the HVAC system). #6, any gap you leave that allows movement in the framing will create issues with the drywall joints further down the road. Unless it's some sort of "seismic" thing in your area, I don't see it. And shooting the bottom plates with a powder actuated tool is the quickest and easiest route to go. Purchase as oh'mike said or rent from the local rental. Best of luck...
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