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Old 11-23-2009, 01:40 PM   #31
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Page 229--- diagram 15-10: http://books.google.com/books?id=KKe...20roof&f=false Use ? or 3-2x6's may be wide enough on the garage roof to give full support to the valley jack rafters. These spans/wood will work, look for roof spans and the wood species: http://books.google.com/books?id=HMu...tables&f=false

Be safe, Gary

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Old 11-23-2009, 05:24 PM   #32
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Thanks again GBR, but I don't have valley jack rafters, those are used on the garage wall gable when they built it, but I am not doing anything to the garage reverse gable. The diagram you pointed me to has a blind valley board that lays flat on the roof. My valley board will need to follow the profile of the valley of the 2.25/12 pitch and will need to be beveled on one side to be able to support the new sheathing. I have used mono trusses sitting on the top plate of my wall for my 2.25/12 pitch, then attached 2x6 to the side of the mono trusses and then to a 2x6 ledger laying flat near the peak. I notched a "key" into the 2x6 rafters and nailed them near the new shed ridge.

I'm at the point now, where my mono-truss sitting next to the garage wall needs to continue on to the new valley. Anyone know how I can do this?
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Old 11-23-2009, 05:32 PM   #33
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lol, I think I got it GBR. I was just looking at the picture wrong. The pic in 15-10 that you pointed to IS actually what I am doing, I just have to look at it a different way, it is essentially a gable, and my ridge is just flat agains the roof...I'm just changing the pitch right? So my plans to do it this way were correct, I just need to make sure I am covering the span correctly.

Last edited by my5sons; 11-23-2009 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 11-23-2009, 05:51 PM   #34
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Wow, those tables are confusing as heck.

I used this with 16 feet span, Deflection L/360 and 20psf live load: Says I should use a 2x10

http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/...e+Span+Options

So, I'm wondering if I did this correct? My truss designs say:

DEFL
Vert(LL) 360
Vert (TL) 240
Horz (TL) n/a

What is the correct Deflection I should use?

TCLL: ASCE 7-05; Pr=20.0 psf (roof live load: Lumber DOL=1.15 Plate DOL=1.15); Pg=10.0 psf (ground snow); Pf=6.3 psf (flat roof snow: Lumber DOL=1.00 Plate DOL = 1.00)

This truss has been designed for a 10. psf bottom chord live load nonconcurrent with any other live loads.

* This truss has been designed for a live load of 20.0psf on the bottom chord in all areas where a rectangle 3-6-0 tall by 2-0-0 wide will fit between the bottom chord and any other members.

So what is my live load and dead load?
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Old 11-23-2009, 06:28 PM   #35
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This is easier: http://www.colonie.org/forms/building/bdspanab.pdf
Check inside under your old house rafters, there may be a purlin bearing on an inside wall.
Add a short leg or wall under each rafter to this roof area above the purlin to reduce the span/size of the new rafters. Page 39: http://books.google.com/books?id=iwS...joists&f=false

Easy way to get your angle: Fig. 2-62: http://books.google.com/books?id=-UC...raming&f=false

Be safe, Gary
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Old 11-23-2009, 07:11 PM   #36
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GBR,

My existing house roof is 2x4 manuf. trusses as well. I don't believe I will be able to do the knee wall. Believe it or not, there is no load bearing wall in this area of the house.

Lastly, that rafter table from colonie doesn't come close to the measurements I have. I'm spanning 9 ft 6 in with a 2x6 that the truss designer told me to use to tie in the mono trusses @ 24" on center.
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Old 11-23-2009, 08:34 PM   #37
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Wow, that table is wrong. Sorry.... Your trusses have 20# LL, 6.3 snow load, and 10 DL = 36.3# psf. This table, the third one down, is right close------- 20# LL, 15 DL = 35# psf: http://www.mcvicker.com/resguide/page013c.htm
(2x6- 24o.c. - 10'5"span)
Be safe, Gary
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Old 04-13-2010, 11:41 AM   #38
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Any pictures & update?


Curious how the project has been?

Any pictures you can post?
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Old 08-04-2015, 12:21 PM   #39
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I can't believe I never updated everyone. I received some good help from here and a couple of other forums. I sold the house in 2014 and moved to Colorado. Here are the photos of the finished product.
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Shed Style or Truss?-1009_hollow_oak1.jpg   Shed Style or Truss?-1009_hollowoak2.jpg   Shed Style or Truss?-1009_hollowoak3.jpg  
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Old 08-04-2015, 01:07 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my5sons View Post
I have a 4/12 pitch on my current roof, which really sucks because if I build the shed style roof, the most I can get out of it is 3/12. I plan on using architectural shingles.
4:12 is the min. pitch that will carry a warranty for an asphalt-shingle roof. (There may be code restrictions as well.)

My suggestion is to truss both, not just one. Get a pitch you can work with and then you have lots of options.
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Old 08-04-2015, 01:42 PM   #41
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I ended up with a 3/12 pitch and put down grace barrier on the first layer. Warranty on shingles is pretty much BS, but their minimum was 3/12, so I was fine with the underlayment and shingles.

Last edited by my5sons; 08-04-2015 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 08-04-2015, 02:20 PM   #42
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It looks like you made a substantial improvement, quite nice. Great looking porch. Warrranty doesn't matter if you are flipping, right? (We need a way to revive old threads that doesn't cause others to unwittingly answer.) When did you sell?
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Old 08-04-2015, 06:33 PM   #43
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Thanks, I actually didn't flip it, it was my personal residence for 10 years. I fired the contractor and built it myself. I ended up replacing the wooden railing a few months before I sold it.

What I mean by the warranty is that I have never seen a shingle manufacturer honor their warranty. Do they really do that? Usually (from my short experience) they find an excuse as to the smallest detail about whether or not they were installed to specs.

I did LOTS of research and found that GAF warrantied the shingles for a 3/12 pitch (low slope), but nothing less than that, so I was good. I believe the underlayment was required in the valleys and on the low slope, which is what I did. I sold the house in June of 2014.

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