Shed Style or Truss?

my5sons · 09-09-2009, 09:23 PM

I just realized something. If I put a beam on the top plate of my existing wall to tie the gable trusses into, that beam will be way above the double 2x10. How on earth would I tie the 2 gables together? hmmm, maybe I'm not understanding this????

Are you saying I could put the beam on the garage side and have the bottom chord of the trusses extend to the top plate of the garage wall?

oldfrt · 09-09-2009, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by my5sons

I just realized something. If I put a beam on the top plate of my existing wall to tie the gable trusses into, that beam will be way above the double 2x10. How on earth would I tie the 2 gables together? hmmm, maybe I'm not understanding this????

Are you saying I could put the beam on the garage side and have the bottom chord of the trusses extend to the top plate of the garage wall?

I was referring to putting a beam above the first post from the existing beam to the house and having the trusses butt against it at ceiling height.The left side would extend past the beam you have there with an overhang.Then build the shed style roof over the remaining open spot above the door and form a valley into the garage roof.

**Gary in WA** · 09-09-2009, 11:21 PM

Look for Willie's post, click on his name, let him look at it, he might draw you both views. His sketch-up's are great! Your trusses say 32', may want to change that, even for a quote. (That's how mistakes happen to start out). And 24" on center rather than 16", quite unnecessary. Be safe, G

my5sons · 09-10-2009, 03:27 PM

I have truss manuf working on it now, and this is what he says when asked about building mono-trusses. FYI, He talks about the 48' length, and he's right, my house is only approx 33 feet deep (I'll have to measure again to be sure, but I'm at work right now.)

8' - 0 monos at 3/12 pitch will not work for this house. If I assume that the heel heights match on the monos and the existing house, then the monos will be 24" higher at the heel of the house than the house itself. Since the main house is a 4/12 pitch and the monos are a 3/12 pitch that leaves a 1/12 pitch difference between them. That means
the main house would have to be 48' - 0 deep in order for the monos to intersect the main roof. I can't tell from the pictures but I don't believe that is the case. As a result, the 3/12 mono roof plane would overshoot the main house ridge. Please look at the pitches involved. To better help I attached a form to fill out on your existing truss and send back to me. Let me know.

my5sons · 09-11-2009, 11:48 AM

Here are my measurements: according to my calculations, the garage roof is actually a 4 1/4 pitch, and the Main House is 4 3/16 pitch. I guess I could be a little off, I'm measuring, trying to push my tape measure through blown in insulation in the attic spaces. Otherwise, you would think with Manufactured trusses, they would be dead on with 4/12.

A. Main House:

1. Overall Truss Height: 67 inches to 67 1/4 inches depending on which Truss I measure (there was a roof fire from what I was told prior to us purchasing this house, so it is re-built with manuf 2x4 trusses. I wish they would have gone with a 5/12 pitch or something better than this 4/12 crap.

2. Overall Heel Height: 3-3/4 inches

3. Overall Span: 32 ft.

4. Overhang: 16 in.

5. Ridge to Outside Face of Bearing: 16 ft.

B. Garage:

1. Overall Truss Height: 44.5 inches (manuf 2x4 trusses again)

2. Overall Heel Height: 3-3/4 inches

3. Overall Span: 21 ft.

4. Overhang: 16 in.

5. Ridge to Outside Face of Bearing: 10 ft. 6 in.

Willie T · 09-14-2009, 12:53 PM

A few views................. Only two, the shed and the large gable flowing into the garage roofline seem workable.

my5sons · 09-14-2009, 08:17 PM

Willie, that definitely helps me understand this better. I agree, and will probably end up with the shed style roof. Any recommendations on a DIY modified roof to help with the 2.25/12 pitch?

I received the quote for mono trusses. This is what he says.

Quote:

The best we could get on the pitch is 2.25/12. Anything higher than that
will put you over the garage ridge ( see layout ). You will need to
attach a ledger to the exterior wall to provide support at the high end
of the monos.

So my questions:

1. 2.25/12 pitch. Can I still use Architectural Shingles? What about a modified roof? What system is best?

2. I looked at the mono-truss drawings, and see that the top chord doesn't extend to my existing roof. I'm assuming I need to add this, will a 2x6 work? Do I need any other legs when I add this top chord attachment to my 4/12 roof?

3. Why do I need to install a ledger for support on my outside wall? Can't I just cut the overhang from my existing roof and use the top plate of my outside wall? If I have to install a Ledger, what size is needed? 2x6, 2x8 or 2x10?

Willie T · 09-14-2009, 08:59 PM

A few rough views of the shed type. No details, you can work that out.

oldfrt · 09-14-2009, 09:19 PM

First off,
Excuse me Wille for butchering your drawing.

I think the OP had mentioned this possibility at one point.
Shorten front gable to first post.
Head off from first post to house for truss.
Build (black area) cricket/shed roof between new and existing garage roof.
Definately not to scale,but the smaller front gable may fit better and alleviate the two valleys dumping into one another.
You nay be able to get that 41/2 pitch to work here.

my5sons · 09-14-2009, 09:25 PM

Thanks again Willie, I would rather have a gable, but the shed style is looking better. Thank you VERY much for the drawing samples. Easier at least to see what it will look like.

Any suggestions on the modified bitumen roof or something that will help me with a 2.25/12 pitch?

my5sons · 09-14-2009, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldfrt

First off,
Excuse me Wille for butchering your drawing.

I think the OP had mentioned this possibility at one point.
Shorten front gable to first post.
Head off from first post to house for truss.
Build (black area) cricket/shed roof between new and existing garage roof.
Definately not to scale,but the smaller front gable may fit better and alleviate the two valleys dumping into one another.
You nay be able to get that 41/2 pitch to work here.

Thanks oldfrt. I do like the drawing you butchered!

The problem is, I will have to add another beam coming off that post, and there are 2x4's for my existing outside wall that are in the way. I will need to cut these to notch the beam. I guess I could hang them off the face of the 2x4's, but the other issue is I won't have a consistent ceiling height. hmmmm, decisions, decisions.

I think I've stated this earlier, but I could easily add a "fake gable" like a dormer later if I decide on something to make it look more appealing.

Willie T · 09-14-2009, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by my5sons

Thanks again Willie, I would rather have a gable, but the shed style is looking better. Thank you VERY much for the drawing samples. Easier at least to see what it will look like.

Any suggestions on the modified bitumen roof or something that will help me with a 2.25/12 pitch?

Nope. I live in a low pitch house, and I've just given up on ever using shingles.

my5sons · 11-22-2009, 09:40 PM

Believe it or not, I'm still working this roof. I need to know the easiest way to calculate and make the new valley. Do I use a level from the closest truss to the garage and mark a line? Do I just use a valley board nailed to the side of my garage gable? If so, what size 2x6 2x8?. I have my trusses in place and I'm trying to figure out how to continue from the garage wall and into the existing valley. It looks like my Rafter connecting from the peak to this rafter will be about 18 feet long. I don't even know at this point if that is possible.

Any recommendations or help?

**Gary in WA** · 11-22-2009, 10:32 PM

Start a reading a few pages back: http://books.google.com/books?id=vTV...raming&f=false
Be safe, Gary

my5sons · 11-23-2009, 09:56 AM

Thanks GBR, but those pages, and everything I have searched online are really talking about valley framing for gable roofs. I'm concerned with a creating a new pitch over an existing pitch. My roof is a 4/12 pitch, and I am just tryng to frame a new pitch over top of it and extending it out to cover a porch. Obviously, this creates a new valley...

Here is the drawing of the roof I am putting up over my porch (2.25/12 pitch): (yes, I know the pitch is low slope, but the project is nearly done. I live in South Carolina - no snow loads etc.)

I need to frame the new valley so that I can put sheathing on it before the next rain. I'm kind of lost. I know I could use a valley board and then bevel it to the angle that the sheathing can attach to it, but what do I do with the space in between the last truss (next to the garage wall, and the valley? I need rafters or something to fill the space right? Approx 16 feet. I don't have a knee wall to support rafters that long. What size rafters do I need 2x10? 2x8? It sounds easy, but I want to make sure I am doing this right. I am re-shingling with approx. $3,000 in shingles and materials. Don't want to see my roof sag in the vaelly in 2 years or less!