DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

Shed foundation question

6K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  concretemasonry 
#1 ·
Hi there, considering building a shed about 10x10 to store a lawn tractor and other small equipment. In my planning I have seen conversation using pavers or setting beams in gravel for a foundation. I haven't seen any discussion beyond that for securing to the ground. Am I missing something or is that enough to keep the shed from blowing over?

Insight is appreciated. I'm sure I will have many more questions as I go through this looking at DIY vs prebuilt and pricing and all that but for now that's where I'm stuck.

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#2 ·
Setting beams in gravel is usually not a good idea, unless you are using precast concrete beams, or special pressure treated beams rated for ground contact. Even then, I suggest you put your beams on top of concrete blocks. Many sheds are built this way, as it increases life span versus embedding wood in soil or gravel.

As for your shed falling over in a windstorm, the best way to prevent that is to anchor the shed to the foundation. This typically requires a concrete or block foundation around the entire perimeter, which is perhaps a bit expensive for a small shed. My shed is built on concrete blocks which are spaced about 6 feet on center, and are simply embedded about 6 inches into the soil. The shed has been there for over 50 years, kept in place mostly by the weight of the shed and contents. Of course it could blow over in a hurricane, but the folks who built it were not too concerned, and here it stands over 50 years later. You may want to talk to your building inspector about requirements for foundations for sheds, but usually they are much less rigorous than for an occupied structure.
 
#6 ·
You do not attach the subfloor to the concrete blocks, you attach the sill beams. The joists are attached to the sill beams, and the subfloor attaches to the joists. If you use hollow block, which is pretty common, you fill the block with concrete, and embed a J bolt, just as you would if you used a concrete foundation. If you use solid concrete block, you need to drill and insert an anchor like a Phillips redhead or similar expansion anchor. But I would use hollow block, so easy to fill with concrete and embed the J bolt.
 
#7 ·
Hi there. Want to get a little more info please. When I do the shed base and use concrete blocks, and I build a floor frame using pressure treated 2x6 or 2x8, they won't rest on the concrete blocks?


What would I use for sills? And if I'm looking at an 8x10 shed, how would the sills and concrete blocks be arranged?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#12 ·
It is certainly common practice not to secure the base to the ground, simply rely on the dead weight of the shed to keep it in place. However, your local building code may require some means of securing the base, of course your local building inspector will know this and will no doubt be happy to discuss the local regulations with you when you pull your permit.

I can tell you that my shed foundation consists of concrete blocks spaced about six feet apart, much like in the Fine Homebuilding link you looked at, and the shed has been just fine for over 50 years. However, it certainly could blow over in a hurricane, so you may not want to take the chance, in which case the simplest option is to substitute a relatively deep concrete pier for the concrete block, with an embedded J bolt to hold down the sill. That is how my deck is built, and it would likely survive a small tornado (the shed would be destroyed by a small tornado).
 
#13 ·
Whenever I have built a shed I have built a foundation out of treated lumber, similar to a deck, with posts sunk like you would for a deck. Then the she'd gets built on top of it. Walls are fastened to it, so unless a hurricane blows through, they don't go anywhere. Common practice around here is to put down a small layer of gravel. Patio stones in the four corners, treated 4 x 4's for runners are placed on the patio stones. Then some kind of osb or plywood if your lucky for the floor, and then the rest of the shed. Neighbor next door's shed built this way is sinking to the point he can't hardly open the doors.
Mike Hawkins:)
 
#14 ·
considering building a shed about 10x10...
I have seen conversation using pavers or setting beams in gravel...
Am I missing something...
Yeah... that these approaches are based in a desire to save a few pennies on taxes in areas with issues about permanent foundations. feh.

Form for concrete, set a course of block and have something that will last.
10'x10' x 3" = just under a yard of concrete.

If you don't live in this black hole...
you could get that yard in a buggy all for about $150.
 

Attachments

#15 ·
Couple more questions. Probably leaning to a skid base just for ease. Never worked with concrete and don't want to mess it up.

Looking around I am looking at this shed: http://m.homedepot.com/p/Rubbermaid...=RV-_-wstestscheme2_rr-1-_-NA-_-204721823-_-N

I will probably still build out an 8x8 floor base for ease of putting together. This means I will have a couple inches of overhang on all sides. Will regular deck flashing work here to cover the exposed wood? How would I seal around the shed since I probably don't want to put screws into the resin shed.

One other question, the shed is intended to store a riding mower and with skids and base will be 10-12" off the ground. I can build a ramp but is using plywood ok for the ramp that is going to be permanent outside? Any other suggestions for materials?

Thanks for all the help so far. Mower is ordered so shed is going up in the next couple weeks!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#17 ·
I have seen a number if somewhat different sheds in my area.

Most areas have a requirement for a permit if over a specific area - 80 sf, 100 sf or 120sf as examples. The people got around the inspection and permitting delays and built shed with 10' high walls, tucked in close to the house (10' away commonly).

This type of shed allows a concrete slab for ease of cleaning and stability, but still get a door for tractor and have a lot of wall storage for light, tall items. Since they are not to in the system, they eventually acquired underground power for lights as long as it done to pass any electrical inspection and the power allowed recharging all of the batteries and toys.

Dick
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top