Shed Floor Problem--new construction

MrUnderhill · 06-01-2012, 03:25 AM

I ordered my shed lumber back in October thinking I could get my shed done before the snows...bad move. Anyway, some of my pressure treated lumber warped pretty badly and I had to replace it with new lumber. The problem is that the old PT lumber shrunk while being stored. My new PT lumber is about 3/8" wider than the old stock. This means that 4 of my floor joists sit slightly higher than my band joists. This is going to be a problem when I try to nail the plywood floor on. I've already installed all of the joists (I know, bone head move). What should I do? I figured I could make a quick router jig and route the floor joists flush with the band joist. I could taper this over 12" which would mean the floor would have a high spot for while until the joists shrank. Is this a good idea? Any Suggestions? Thanks in advance.

a.j.

**oh'mike** · 06-01-2012, 06:08 AM

Is the shed built or just the floor framing?

Any possibility of pictures?

My first thought is to sister in some 2x4s to raise the low joists to the height of the higher ones--Mike--

P.S--Keep all your questions in one thread---most of the regulars use 'todays posts' to search--

dogris · 06-01-2012, 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike

Is the shed built or just the floor framing?
My first thought is to sister in some 2x4s to raise the low joists to the height of the higher ones

Won't the new lumber eventually shrink to the dimensions of the old boards? Then what?

hand drive · 06-01-2012, 08:21 AM

use a sawzall and cut the nails free for the larger sized joists and use a skil saw to rip a notch out of the underside of the joist to allow it to drop down to the height of the tops of the other joists. in your case it only matters about the top edge of the joist being flush, what happens on the underside of the framing does not matter. Also, use glue when putting down plywood, it will help to handle any excessive movement from the lumber

if you use a straight edge like an 8' 2x4 and lay it on top of the joists and move it around it will show how bad they are, it may not be as bad as you think and the plywood could float out any unevenness

joecaption · 06-01-2012, 08:29 AM

Leave them the way they are. Once it shrinks as it drys the floor will be level.

MrUnderhill · 06-01-2012, 01:57 PM

Thanks for all of the advice. Since someone requested it, I'm posting photos to see if that changes things. The 3 floor joists at the end are the problem. As suggested, I would like to leave it alone. But I was wondering how much of a problem will it be when I nail the flooring (3/4" ply) band joists? Will the plywood split? Will this be a problem when I set the walls? Thanks.

a.j.

MrUnderhill · 06-01-2012, 08:04 PM

Thanks for everyone's responses. Since I used screws to set the joists, I just backed out the screws and notched the bottom of the joists and then set them back in. At least it's even, for now. Thanks, again.

a.j.

hand drive · 06-01-2012, 10:57 PM

good job! when framing- joists are never 100% accurate so finding the important edge, ( in your case the top edge) and making them all line up with that edge works best. some vapor barrier put down over top of the dirt under the frame and you are ready for plywood.

MrUnderhill · 06-01-2012, 11:09 PM

I hadn't thought about a vapor barrier. I live in AZ and we only get about 15" or rain per year. In these conditions, do you consider a vapor barrier necessary? Thanks.

a.j.

hand drive · 06-02-2012, 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrUnderhill

I hadn't thought about a vapor barrier. I live in AZ and we only get about 15" or rain per year. In these conditions, do you consider a vapor barrier necessary? Thanks.

a.j.

I'm really not sure but a vapor barrier will most likely not benefit your situation. I tend to offer advice for where I am locally here in NC,forgetting other people have different conditions