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-   -   Shed floor - floorboards directly on support beams? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/shed-floor-floorboards-directly-support-beams-120297/)

ligyron 10-16-2011 02:38 PM

Shed floor - floorboards directly on support beams?
 
So I'm going to be building a shed that is 12' by 20'. My plan is to run 12' p.t. 4x4 or 6x6 spaced 16' o.c. which will run the length of the shed. these will lie directly on the shale rock. then i was going to run 3/4 thick floorboards perpendicular to the beams, to make up my entire floor. So, avoid joists all together, and let the beams act as joists.

crude 3d drawing: http://imgur.com/gffG3 (green is the p.t beams and brown is the floorboards)

Is there anything wrong with this design? we already have an old shed on our land that was built this way and it's still standing fine. is it still common practice? any suggestions on changing beam/floorboard sizes or spacing? or info on this design, as far as what it's called, or blueprints, or building code references?

thanks!

woodworkbykirk 10-16-2011 03:10 PM

if you dont build a actual floor frame theres no way of getting the floor dead level. you can do the 4x4 thing but use this as sleepers for the floor system. you can shim under the joists to creat level.. the other thing is you wont be able to keep your floor level.. any movement in the groun and the floor will shift which in turn will transfer to your walls

firehawkmph 10-16-2011 05:04 PM

Ligy,
I tend to overbuild rather than underbuild. Although I see the majority of sheds in my area built by the amish with a floor that is not as strong as what you propose, I wouldn't do it. Your floor plans are better, but I still like building a subfloor with joists, like a deck, then building the shed on top. I sink 4 x 4s in the ground just like you would do in building a deck. Then attach the subfloor to them. I have used 3/4" treated plywood for a floor and it worked well. On top of that, the shed is traditional stick built, 16" oc studs and rafters.
Mike Hawkins:)

icreate 10-20-2011 09:07 AM

1 Attachment(s)
It will be much cheaper, and easier to level the floor, if you put 3 PT rails on the ground in the 20' direction and then frame the floor using 2x6's at 16" o.c. This drawing shows what I am talking about. I got it at http://www.icreatables.com/sheds/shed-plans.html The floor shown does not go 20' but you can imagine it.

ligyron 10-20-2011 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by icreate (Post 752683)
It will be much cheaper, and easier to level the floor, if you put 3 PT rails on the ground in the 20' direction and then frame the floor using 2x6's at 16" o.c. This drawing shows what I am talking about. I got it at http://www.icreatables.com/sheds/shed-plans.html The floor shown does not go 20' but you can imagine it.

I kind of wanted to avoid butting beams together (which i'd have to do to get the full 24' span, with two 12' beams)

The reason i wanted to avoid framing a floor was so that i wouldn't need to have much of a ramp for vehicles driving into the shed. I thought about it some more and i think what i'm going to do is run 9 6x6 beams at 3' o.c. along the length of the shed, then frame a floor with 2x4's at 16" o.c (with the joists running perpendicular to the 6x6's). this will put me 9" off the ground.

ddawg16 10-20-2011 11:15 AM

I can see why you want to do it that way....but as noted above, getting it level/flat is going to be hard with it sitting on shale rock.

What you propose would work....but I would suggest pouring 3 or 4 footings and putting the PT lumber on it. Using icreate's drawing as an example, rotate the footings so that one is at the front...one in the rear and 1-2 in the middle. We don't know where you live so it's unknown if you have to deal with freezing ground.....but at a min, I would go about 18" deep....and about 8" wide at the bottom of the trench. Top only needs to be about 4" wide....would be easy to form in with 2x6's...and easy to get level. Toss in a couple of #3 rebars in each footing....pour the concrete....fill in between the footings with your shale rock.....

You might even consider putting in a couple of anchor bolts in case you have high winds....or use Simpson beam ties....

Which ever way you go.....I would suggest that you paint the bottom of your plywood before you put it down....lay out all the sheets....use a roller to put down a coat of primer....then follow up with a good coat of exterior paint....I would use some that was sitting on the "Ooops" shelf at HD...usually get it for $5/gal. No one can see underneath so you don't care what color...but the paint will extend the life quite a bit.

AndyGump 10-20-2011 11:47 AM

Quote:

that i wouldn't need to have much of a ramp for vehicles driving into the shed
Drive vehicles in there?

Concrete slab.

Andy.

lance32 10-09-2012 03:51 PM

You may be able to find the answers to your questions here: http://howtobuildashedi.org/

GBrackins 10-09-2012 04:26 PM

are you required to obtain a building permit? for a shed that size in my state you would be required to submit drawings to get your building permit. A shed that size would require a foundation, the depth of which is based upon the code required frost protection depth.

where are you located?


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