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Old 04-10-2011, 11:16 PM   #1
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Sheathing below grade. What to do?


Hi guys. I have a little dilemma here. I have part of my house framing sill pates sitting on a concrete foundation above the grade (section A in the attached picture). Stucco is terminated at weep screed 2" above the concrete walkway--so everything is good there. But, I also have parts of the house where the framing sill plates sit below the concrete or at the same level as concrete (ex. section B in the attached pictures). Sure enough, when I removed stucco from section B, the OSB sheathing and the sill plate were showing signs of moisture.

Taking into consideration, that I can't lift the house framing above the concrete grade , I am considering cutting the concrete about 2-3" away from the house wall and 4"-6" down below the sill plate. This should separate the concrete walkway surface away from the house stucco wall far enough to prevent water transfer from concrete onto the wall. Then, maybe, I can insert a J channel to collect drainage water and guide it away from the house. Does this sound like a right approach in this case? Thank you very much in advance.
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Sheathing below grade. What to do?-below-grade-1.jpg   Sheathing below grade. What to do?-below-grade-2.jpg   Sheathing below grade. What to do?-below-grade-3.jpg   Sheathing below grade. What to do?-below-grade-4.jpg  

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Old 04-11-2011, 09:10 AM   #2
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Sheathing below grade. What to do?


What would stop you from cutting out the soggy OSB, replacing, and slide flashing down where it should have been in the first place?

This approach would save an awful lot of time and aggravation in cutting out the concrete.

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Old 04-11-2011, 07:17 PM   #3
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Sheathing below grade. What to do?


Thank you for your reply, RickyBooby. Replacing OSB and installing flashings is part of the plan, of course. I just don't think it is a good idea to have steps touching the stucco like it is now. That's why I want to move the concrete away from the stucco and insert a flashing with some sort of U channel at the bottom end of it to collect and guide water away from the house. And the only way I see to do this is to make the current gap wider by cutting some of the concrete off. Not sure if the words are clearly communicating my intentions. Let me know if I should mock it up.
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:38 PM   #4
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Sheathing below grade. What to do?


I think your greater problem is with the moisture in the sill plate.
To repair this properly, you may have to move the steps and break out the sidewalk.

Then install a pressure treated sill plate, that won't rot. It would require a moisture barrier to keep it away from the concrete.
Replace the damaged OSB with PT plywood.
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:59 AM   #5
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Sheathing below grade. What to do?


Even PT its going to rot over time.
Solution would be to build a cinder block knee wall.
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Old 04-12-2011, 01:41 PM   #6
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Sheathing below grade. What to do?


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Even PT its going to rot over time.
.
Not for a long time! Ther're building whole foundations from PT lumber and expect them to last scores of years.
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Old 04-12-2011, 03:10 PM   #7
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Sheathing below grade. What to do?


Long time...
or a lifetime?

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distrib...ng/dk0897.html

Something like this although its a different story...

And BTW Wilde that is a PT plate pictured above
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Old 04-12-2011, 03:31 PM   #8
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Sheathing below grade. What to do?


It's not just the plate, the sheathing is going to fall apart if continually wet. I agree with SteelToes. Build a block knee wall.
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Old 04-12-2011, 05:27 PM   #9
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Sheathing below grade. What to do?


nice place for a cleanout.
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:28 PM   #10
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Sheathing below grade. What to do?


Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelToes View Post
Long time...
or a lifetime?

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distrib...ng/dk0897.html

Something like this although its a different story...

And BTW Wilde that is a PT plate pictured above
How can you tell? We are talking about the OP's photo of the plate, are we not?
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Old 04-13-2011, 12:38 AM   #11
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Sheathing below grade. What to do?


Either p.t. or not, is irrelevant, could be cedar or other naturally decay resistant wood locally approved. P.t. is treated against rot from fungus and insects, not water; http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...-building-code

The walkway should have been poured a distance from the stucco. This siding weep screed requires 2" minimum splash from slabs; http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...003_par016.htm

Move the walkway, especially if that is a clean-out, as noted. Poor location for a dryer hood and a TPR valve also. Did you have any builders paper on there?

Gary
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Old 04-15-2011, 11:44 AM   #12
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Sheathing below grade. What to do?


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Either p.t. or not, is irrelevant, could be cedar or other naturally decay resistant wood locally approved. P.t. is treated against rot from fungus and insects, not water; http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...-building-code

The walkway should have been poured a distance from the stucco. This siding weep screed requires 2" minimum splash from slabs; http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...003_par016.htm

Move the walkway, especially if that is a clean-out, as noted. Poor location for a dryer hood and a TPR valve also. Did you have any builders paper on there?

Gary
Thank you very much, Gary and everyone for your input. I definitely agree with you guys that letting PT stay wet is not the right solution. I do want to move the walkway further away from the house, just not sure exactly how to do this right. I've looked up knee walls online, but still have hard time picturing it here. Any help would be highly appreciated.

Also, please keep in mind that there is a concrete fence wall running along that side of the house. The width of the walkway is a little over 3'. How far away from the house framing should I cut this walkway in the area B (see the pictures in the original post)? My understanding the walkway in area A is OK since it connects to the foundation and there is 2" weep screed clearance above the concrete. Whatever concrete I need to cut will narrow the walkway by that much.

P.S. I am getting the building plans from the city next week. If there is anything you want me to scan and post, please let me know. I can also take additional pictures, if needed.
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Old 04-15-2011, 11:54 AM   #13
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Sheathing below grade. What to do?


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Move the walkway, especially if that is a clean-out, as noted. Poor location for a dryer hood and a TPR valve also. Did you have any builders paper on there?

Gary
As far as the dryer good and TPR valve release pipe goes, what do you think would be a better location for them? Should move them higher? The house is being stripped down to the frame, so this is the right time to do it.
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Old 04-15-2011, 11:55 PM   #14
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Sheathing below grade. What to do?


A new picture of the steps from 15-20' away may help....

My dryer drops lint around the area, can't move my walk due to side yard width. I'd line the dryer up for a direct straight run, no elbows to catch lint. If it's like that now, fine, move the walk. The valve is fine, just add a pipe to extend closer to ground. I wouldn't want to be near it activated (very hot water) where it is now.

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Old 04-18-2011, 12:25 PM   #15
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Sheathing below grade. What to do?


Quote:
Originally Posted by deeonline View Post
As far as the dryer good and TPR valve release pipe goes, what do you think would be a better location for them? Should move them higher? The house is being stripped down to the frame, so this is the right time to do it.
504.6 Requirements for discharge piping.
The discharge
piping serving a pressure relief valve, temperature relief valve
or combination thereof shall:
1. Not be directly connected to the drainage system.
2. Discharge through an air gap located in the same room
as the water heater.
3. Not be smaller than the diameter of the outlet of the
valve served and shall discharge full size to the air gap.
4. Serve a single relief device and shall not connect to piping
serving any other relief device or equipment.
5. Discharge to the floor, to an indirect waste receptor or
to the outdoors. Where discharging to the outdoors in
areas subject to freezing, discharge piping shall be first
piped to an indirect waste receptor through an air gap
located in a conditioned area.
6. Discharge in a manner that does not cause personal
injury or structural damage.
7. Discharge to a termination point that is readily observable
by the building occupants.
8. Not be trapped.
9. Be installed so as to flow by gravity.
10. Not terminate more than 6 inches (152 mm) above the
floor or waste receptor.
11. Not have a threaded connection at the end of such piping.


Something else ;
Once extended, do not leave threads exposed on the terminated end of the pipe ,cut them off so that TPR cant be capped off.

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