second story addition

JayG · 02-25-2010, 10:56 PM

I hope my pictures posted properly. Just wanted to share with you what a second story addition in the 1930's looks like. What these pictures show is the front outside wall framing. There is a ridge beam that runs the length of the second story to this wall. You can see diagonally the original roof line, the original roof line studs and then newer studs that appear to be notched and bearing on the original roof line. none of the measurements between studs are the same including the original studs.

I'm fairly new to all of this. And I tore out the plaster out of curiosity in the hopes that I could open it up to french doors and cut 2 new 2'6" x 4'6" windows. This looks nothing like any of the construction techniques I have seen and learned about. This is second story is post and beam construction. If I'm right about this, the wall studs between the load bearing beams should not be load bearing. Everything about what I see here leads me to believe that the original roof line is carrying an important load. If I'm right, I don't know how or why. Has anyone seen anything like this before?

Scuba_Dave · 02-25-2010, 11:14 PM

I'm thinking this is the gable end
Do you have a pic up near the peak ?
If there are rafters going to either side they should be carrying the load

JayG · 02-25-2010, 11:34 PM

Here is a pic of the peak. You can see the ridge beam and the header that is installed wrong. Also is a pic of the front of the house with the original roof line.

Scuba_Dave · 02-25-2010, 11:40 PM

Ah...that is a BEAM...no rafter ties
So it is needed to hold up the roof, keep walls from spreading
I hope that support goes all the way down to the foundation

The gable end should still not be load bearing
As long as they put new rafters from the outside wall to the ridge beam
The 2x's might be under some load due to settling, weight of the roof

JayG · 02-25-2010, 11:49 PM

My guess is that the support goes all the way to the foundation...it is sistered to the original single story wall studs. But the top plate looks like it is carrying a significant load I think because of the poorly installed header. I would love to know why they decided to keep the original roof line. If it was for decoration or for ease of construction.

Scuba_Dave · 02-25-2010, 11:57 PM

I've seen so many houses where they keep the original roof line
Sometimes its easier on siding the house
Maybe they liked the old roof style
I dormered the back of my Cape & ripped it right down to the floor to get rid of the old roof line

JayG · 02-26-2010, 01:08 AM

When you say you ripped it down to the floor to get rid of the roof line, do you mean that you took out the entire wall? I was wondering if that was even possible in my situation- with the loads. Seems like a huge project that I probably can't take on myself. It also seems like it is pretty difficult to obtain a general homeowners permit here in Denver without going through a certified contractor.

**Gary in WA** · 02-26-2010, 01:08 AM

The original studs were not on center layout because they didn't use even foot materials--- 4x8 ply or OSB, drywall 4x8 or other even number, not even wood lath-- 48" long. The addition looks to be on center for the drywall. The added gable studs bearing on the rafters and toe-nailed are scary. Only if the end rafter is just a 2x plate, not a rafter. The header appears to be under-sized if the house span is 20', and the length of the ridge beam is 20'. (The two, 2x4's sitting on the double top plates).

Be safe, Gary

JayG · 02-26-2010, 01:25 AM

Scary indeed. The smaller 1x below the rafter is just a plate, but I think that is a full on rafter that extends 12 inches into the wall and makes up the roof line that is protruding from the exterior!

Scuba_Dave · 02-26-2010, 09:35 AM

My front roof stayed intact, as did my ridge board (not a beam)
So I did rip the back wall down & rebuilt it to the new roof line/rafter

With a beam that would be harder
I would probably do 1/2 at a time if I were to do it