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Old 08-17-2012, 07:33 AM   #16
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Sealing siding gap


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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
You have a brake, why are you not fixing this yourself.
To make this a whole lot simpler to fix can you check to see if that install kit is avalible to do a wall mount. It's nothing but a sheet metal 4 sided boxwith no front or back. Then you would have nice flat straight edges to work with all the way around. It would be bigger and may even fill in those gaps so you could just use caulking.
Unfortunately the unit I have is supposed to be used for through wall installation. Even on the last unit, the bottom pan that would make the "bottom" of the AC box was part of the insert, not a four-sided box itself. Only difference is that the old one was fully flat, so it shrunk the gap at the bottom to be smaller and consistent across the bottom, fwiw.

I do have a brake which is about a foot long. My main issue is I don't exactly know what I would make with flashing.

Of course that's why I came to this site to learn from folks with a lot more knowledge than I have. So if you could recommend how to best create the right means of closing this with flashing I would sure appreciate it.

Thank you very much for taking time to respond in my thread and discuss this, I really appreciate it!


Last edited by JHZR2; 08-17-2012 at 07:47 AM.
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:35 PM   #17
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Sealing siding gap


Well, I've found that 5/8" vinyl j channel fits over my siding, so that can work..

So the main question now is - am I better doing this job with flashing and my brake, and if so, how do I want to construct parts?

Otherwise if using the 5/8" J, I get how to tab it and fold it over into the vertical j to let water run away right on the top part. But what do I do at the bottom to keep the water out of the siding? Just end it in a miter that looks good and caulk behind it a LOT? Or is there another/ better way?
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Old 08-18-2012, 12:14 AM   #18
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Sealing siding gap


Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
You have a brake, why are you not fixing this yourself.
To make this a whole lot simpler to fix can you check to see if that install kit is avalible to do a wall mount. It's nothing but a sheet metal 4 sided boxwith no front or back. Then you would have nice flat straight edges to work with all the way around. It would be bigger and may even fill in those gaps so you could just use caulking.
I may have to put a window unit through my garage wall (hardiplank). I could get one with a case. Then should I cut through the hardilank so the case fits in tightly all around and gob caulk along the edges? No Z channels or trim boards?
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Old 08-19-2012, 08:58 PM   #19
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Sealing siding gap


This is getting worse. Got the 5/8" j, cut it as one should so the water follows the tabs in the horizontal piece down the vertical.

I just can't get anything straight. Realize that I was stupidly trying and hoping to get this all to fit just by sliding the J under the existing siding. Of course it doesn't sit flat or even, so I can't get my mitre joints to sit properly or the thing to look right.

Maybe when I use sealant it would, but I don't want to take that chance as I doubt that sealant has much holding power, and I'm not going to be able to hold all the parts in place where I want them even if it does. I want to see it right on the dry fit and then be better when I put sealant on it. Not sure I'll have luck with that.

It's looking more and more like the entire side of the house has to be de-sided. Unfortunately no siding guys that I've contacted are willing to do that. Too small a job, even from the guys who say that no job is too small. I guess the economy isn't as bad as they say it is.

Very frustrating. Any other advice?
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:05 AM   #20
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Sealing siding gap


Well I tried most every j channel, tried braking my own aluminum, etc. nothing worked. I needed at least 5/8" j and the vinyl didn't install well, the 3/4" aluminum (nobody around carried 5/8 Al at any supply house) was too short on the outer side to adequately cover and hide the gap.

So I used duct seal, PVC "wood" and aluminum flashing that I braked myself, then masked and applied white OSI Quad to the gap.
There was no way to apply backer rod, since it was siding and a hole in the wall, so I had to apply it pretty heavy. I got plenty in, tooled it a bit (though it says self tooling), then when it started to get stiffer, smoothed it real good with mineral spirits.



Not sure if you are supposed to tool self tooling sealants, or if you are supposed to use a solvent to smooth the work, but it came out looking fairly good considering it was a BIG gap, I don't usually caulk stuff and are not very good at it, plus I was working off a ladder.
We will see when it fully cures, and the worst tat can happen is that I pull it all and redo it... But some flexible sealant was how the old unit was in there, and it worked fine and was bone dry in there, so it must work well enough.
I'm planning on painting the AC and sealant (it's urethane and can take latex paint) when I have a chance.
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Old 09-17-2012, 07:13 AM   #21
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Sealing siding gap


give all of the sealant a chance to cure out before painting, if it shrinks a considerable amount you might have to apply a little more after it fully cures...
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Old 09-17-2012, 09:17 AM   #22
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Sealing siding gap


Yeah it says that it cures to paintable state in 7-10 days, and since it has been cool and dry, Ill wait the 10. Though the white stands out a bit, its not like a dark black stripe or anything like that... so Im not in a rush. It can have all the time in the world to cure.

If I do need to add some more, should I first wet the existing sealant with solvent (mineral spirits) to soften it up a bit and promote bonding of the new stuff?

Thanks!

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