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Old 04-26-2012, 11:09 AM   #16
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Everytime I see that name it makes me chuckle.....
How do you think we feel. Up until recently you walk into HD and there was a life size replica of him by the front doors.

I only watch his programs cause I like renovations and construction, but I don't listen to him talk. His mis-use of words and over complication of matters is frustrating to say the least.

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Old 04-26-2012, 11:50 AM   #17
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Everytime I see that name it makes me chuckle.....
I've probably made you chuckle quite a few times in recent months, then. Honestly, I didn't realize how much of a bad nerve he's hit with so many contractors. I'm a passionate DIYer; I don't work in the construction field and so this forum has been my only visibility into what real construction folks think of him.

I'm not too surprised industry people don't like him. Anyone who rises from the trenches, becomes a celebrity, claims to be an expert, badmouths the industry to no end, and wears overalls to boot...he's basically doomed to ridicule from his peers. Let's face it--he's this generation's Bob Villa.

That said, I pick up a lot of knowledge watching his shows. That might make some eyes roll, but be assured that very little of what I see on them do I blindly take as truth. I actually research a lot of it and most of it seems well grounded. Also, let's not forget that he has a lot of tradesmen (carpenters, electricians, plumber, roofers, HVAC, foundation pros) who also contribute to the educational aspect of the show. My point here is that I think it's unfortunate so many people in the industry dismiss him and his shows. I think he deserves credit on many fronts.

However, as the saying goes--it is what it is. One thing I've learned is that you probably lose credibility by mentioning his name, and so, frankly, I'll probably stop doing that after this post. Just thought I'd throw in my last two cents on someone I feel deserves to have someone stand up for him.
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:09 PM   #18
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The only structrual screws I would ever use would be Simpson.

I get my nails and screws from my local building hardware supply....they are actually a lot closer than HD....just not open late or weekends.

The structrual Simpson screws have hex heads on them that will stick out of the wood.....so you don't really want to use those on walking surfaces. But as noted above, they are more expensive....so I only use them in places where it's hard to swing a hammer.

Regarding Mr Holms.....sorry, but I can help but think that a majority of the dislike is really nothing more than professional jealousy. I'm sure all the actors out there are talking the same way about all the other actors.....

Yes, he gets carried away on the show....but is that not the norm for drama TV? And you have to admit....he really does work on some hack jobs....even I can tell it was not done right the first time.
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Old 04-26-2012, 09:43 PM   #19
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the hanger lag screws mentioned are kept right next to the joist hangers. regular wood scrws arent accepted by inspectors here because they dont have the same size shank

regarding palm nailers.. im a renovator doing large scale remodels and additions regularly and ive only needed a palm nailer maybe 3 times.. i cant imagine a homeowner using one on a regular basis. not to mention the amount of air required to use on.. the strap shot nailers work 10x better otherwise ill use a impact driver and screws or bolts whichever the engineer has spec'd on the a-9 forums

as for holmes... screws arent noted in the canadian code.. he gets away with it because 1) his engineer prob specs glue and screws other wise worthless in an inspection without a A-9 forum
2)hes on tv and hes allowed to get away with it because of his name.. bigger name builders can sometimes get away with murder
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Old 04-27-2012, 06:26 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by psilva8 View Post
How do you think we feel. Up until recently you walk into HD and there was a life size replica of him by the front doors.

I only watch his programs cause I like renovations and construction, but I don't listen to him talk. His mis-use of words and over complication of matters is frustrating to say the least.
Its all the dramatic-whining, self-glorification, and self-promotion = that sickens me.

Business wise, we run into problem-homes, and, problem-projects on 90% of the renovation jobs we do (pretty much, we could cry a dramatic and real story at least 2 or 3 times + = every week). But there is no film crew around to see what we see, and frankly, we don't want them around.

There's no "crying", "pouting", "constant sighing & whining", "chest thumping","bragging", or "ego-boosting", nor ......."we is gonna make dis ting rite..." speech (made every 5 minutes)....with full screen shots of tank-tops, gold chains, crew-cuts, and lots, and lots.....of screws.

On most real-world job sites, you just shake your head, fix the problems, and move on.....
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Old 04-30-2012, 10:59 PM   #21
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I will probably will go will nails for this project but have what may be a stupid question. Everything I have read has said to use 10d nails which according to my research are 3" long. So when I go to nail the joist hanger on the ledger, won't the nail only go in half way before hitting the cement wall, maybe I am missing something here.
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Old 05-01-2012, 08:17 AM   #22
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it would be a 10d joist hanger nail, 10d will be the diameter of the nail and the joist hanger nail length is 1 1/2". if it were a common nail or roofing nail then 10d would be indicative of diameter while length is determined by the type of nail.
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:35 PM   #23
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Ok that makes sense now.
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:02 PM   #24
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Just a word of caution. Simpson joist hangers typically require two different 10d nails, just to confuse the innocent. The diagonal nails that are used with many Simpson joist hangers must be the 3 inch long 10d nails. The face nails are 1-1/2 inches long. Curiously, the big box stores often have large tubs of joist hanger nails labeled "joist hanger nails" that are 10d 1-1/2 inches long, which are NOT suitable for half the holes in the average joist hanger. The joist hanger shorties are typically marked with a 10 in a circle on the head of the nail. I can't tell you how many decks I have looked at that were built entirely using the shorty nails, if you have an awake inspector they will FAIL you if you use them anywhere but on the face.
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Old 05-01-2012, 09:07 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Daniel Holzman View Post
Just a word of caution. Simpson joist hangers typically require two different 10d nails, just to confuse the innocent. The diagonal nails that are used with many Simpson joist hangers must be the 3 inch long 10d nails. The face nails are 1-1/2 inches long. Curiously, the big box stores often have large tubs of joist hanger nails labeled "joist hanger nails" that are 10d 1-1/2 inches long, which are NOT suitable for half the holes in the average joist hanger. The joist hanger shorties are typically marked with a 10 in a circle on the head of the nail. I can't tell you how many decks I have looked at that were built entirely using the shorty nails, if you have an awake inspector they will FAIL you if you use them anywhere but on the face.
we always used the shorty joist hangers on the flat and used electro galvanized gun framing nails on the angles. just rip off a nail from the nail strip when needed. probably better to but the loose galvanized 10d nails instead though...
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:43 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by darren View Post
I will probably will go will nails for this project but have what may be a stupid question. Everything I have read has said to use 10d nails which according to my research are 3" long. So when I go to nail the joist hanger on the ledger, won't the nail only go in half way before hitting the cement wall, maybe I am missing something here.
------

With a single header joist (1-1/2"), use the 1-1/2" 10d nails, be sure to use the proper shank thickness, as per hanger manufacturer. With a shear hanger of Simpson into a single header joist, you take a reduction= times 0.64 of the table value load: http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...rs/LUS-HUS.asp

All the shear hangers here would require a load reduction because they all list 10d x 3" in to header (LUS): x4, x6, x8, etc.; http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...ace_ss-df1.asp

Use hot-dipped as said earlier, electro-galvanized flake on hammer/gun pin impact as well as scaping the sides of the hanger hole when fastening. They look good for a few months. Still have a partial box I only use on interior framing.

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Old 05-06-2012, 07:37 PM   #27
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Thanks for all the help so far, one more quick question. On my ledger I will be using the 1.5" nails. Since my deck is low, I will be using a flush beam which will be 2-2x8, on this beam can I still use the 1.5" nails or should I use 2.5" or 3" nails.
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:22 AM   #28
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Thanks for all the help so far, one more quick question. On my ledger I will be using the 1.5" nails. Since my deck is low, I will be using a flush beam which will be 2-2x8, on this beam can I still use the 1.5" nails or should I use 2.5" or 3" nails.

as stated by another poster, 10d 1.5" hanger nails on the flat portion of the hanger and 10d 3" hanger nails on the angled portion.

a 2x8 joist hanger will typically have 4 - 1.5" nails on the flat per side totaling 8 nails, and 2 - 3" nails on the angle per side totaling 4 nails.

so to recap, you will need 4 - 3" hanger nails and 8 (average) 1.5" hanger nails per hanger.

In regards to your beam, as long as you build your beam to specifications and install hangers correctly as mentioned above you are good to go! there will be no need to use longer hanger nails on the flat portion of the hanger because your beam will have under bearing points ( posts) and by the time you get to the hanger hanging phase the beam should already be pre - spiked with a multitude of long framing nails when you built it
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Old 07-05-2012, 12:46 PM   #29
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Living in Alaska for 40 years as an engineer and journeyman carpenter, I have seen some tremendous leaps and bounds in bracket fastening. Several of the good bracket manufacturers provide or make "Teco" type screws that are about twice as fast to install. Filling brackets with teco nails can be tiring. We have what is refered to as "high wind warnings" which typically exceed 100 mph. Any other state would call it a hurricane. One of my homes I built up at tree-line on the mountain, had 4,000 sqft of deck. Money wasn't a huge concern, so we used the best exterior grade screws, best brackets, best wood, and, every single bracket hole had a screw in it. That was 1991 I believe. The home has gone through at least 15 "wind storms" of over 100 mph, with one over 180 mph (it toppled a nearby radio tower). If you got the bucks, and it's for your place, use bracket screws. You may choke at the price when you go to pick up a box, but, look at the price of lumber vs 20 years ago and it won't hurt so bad.

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