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Old 04-28-2013, 08:35 PM   #16
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Screwing steel studs the hard way


You are doing all this to gain less than 1 square foot of space in a closet? There must be a really good reason?

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Old 04-28-2013, 08:39 PM   #17
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Screwing steel studs the hard way


This is for an apartment that I own in a co-op and there are rules and inspections by the manager who doesn't know the building code. I was afraid of her seeing that I added a wooden extension to the existing plaster and mesh wall. Steel is the rule for commercial buildings for a reason, and it's good for residential apartments for the same reason. It resists fire better than wood. It's a "fireproof" building built in the 1960s.

Last edited by Dorado; 04-28-2013 at 08:52 PM.
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:48 PM   #18
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Screwing steel studs the hard way


Quote:
Originally Posted by jagans View Post
You are doing all this to gain less than 1 square foot of space in a closet? There must be a really good reason?
All of the closets in the apartment, including the hall closet, are slightly under 22" deep. The extra 8" of depth in this bedroom closet will increase the floor space by about 500 sq. in. and make this the only decent sized closet in the apartment. I wish there was room to extend the others. The reason I started this wall was so I'd have a hollow wall for phone and coax jacks, then I figured I should build one on the other side of the closet to extend the closet.
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:39 PM   #19
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Screwing steel studs the hard way


we almost always use a 1/2 inch modified truss head screw.
as far as removing screws it does happen mostly at deflection points where slotted track can not be used.
as far as welding studs never seen it done to track but years ago we would have to weld stiffeners in place or use a special screw clip "which was a pain on heavy gauge studs" to studs to create a shear wall when adding a mezzanine

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