Scabbing on Eaves?

JeepNick

I'll be having the inspector out in the next week or two for our structural inspection (among others) on our bathroom addition.

We had trusses designed and built by a local company. When I ordered them, they suggested that they end the truss at the wall and have no overhang for an eave so that we could match up the eaves with the existing house. They said I could "scab on" board for the eaves and suggested I use screws.

I did as they said and scabbed/sistered 2x6 boards to the trusses to create eaves to match the existing house. I used 6 3" deck screws to attach each board.

Now that the inspection is getting close, I'm worrying about every little thing. Should I go back and put carriage bolts through each one, or will the screws work?

__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

mae-ling

Is this eave just a single 2x6? Sounds like it is, here that would be Ok with Just screws. Nor sure about AZ.

woodworkbykirk

where your simply talking about the eaves and not the actual roof structure screws should suffice, the only consideration i would make is to use scab material that is roughly 4' long so that the fascia board will not sag once gutters go on. if the fascia sags theres a good chance the gutters will lose the correct pitch for rain water to be properly directed to the downspout

JeepNick

Yes its 2x6 scabbed on to the trusses (2x4 trusses which are nailed to the top plate of the wall and have hurricane ties). The overhang is about 18" and the scabbed on 2x6s are 4' long total for leverage.

__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Gary in WA

Let us know the outcome of the inspection.

Screws are used in some of Simpson hangers, though are rated for use there. Nails/staples are in all the structural framing codes, few -if any screws, find Waldo: http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...002_par005.htm

Gary

__________________

mae-ling

For us 12" is the furthest we can go with this, we make a little ladder type structure and nail it on to the gable truss. More then that and you have to tie back one rafter. And the gable is made 3.5" lower than the truss rafters.

One inspector let us notch 2x4's into the top of the gable end sticking them out 2', we put them on every 4'. On the inside under the notched in 2x4's we ran a 2x6 up the entire length of the top chord.

Gary in WA

I think we're talking about eaves, bottom of truss tails- not gable over-hangs.... That is SOP here also, good for others to know when you chop-up the gable truss for lookouts. We would side, sheath, add barge and rake to both sides while fanned and nailed bottom chord 1-1/2" (or ?) inset, then raise the gables and attach the free end of lookouts to the on-layout next truss. Fast.

Gary

__________________