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Old 03-30-2013, 12:14 PM   #16
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rust on wood columns


Too bad, I was going to run over there and fix it for you. Tough Commute!

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Old 03-30-2013, 12:17 PM   #17
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Too bad, I was going to run over there and fix it for you. Tough Commute!
Oh well thanks anyways for the advice.
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Old 04-06-2013, 06:02 PM   #18
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Do they make columns that snap over the existing columns?
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Old 04-06-2013, 06:18 PM   #19
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Like this?
http://www.screentight.com/prod-wrapnsnap.shtml
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:24 AM   #20
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whoever said earlier that cpvc lumber is not advised has not worked with it... I've put up or down cpvc column base wraps that looked like they needed to be on the best million dollar homes they looked so good . after painted you cannot tell at all that they are not wood, it is 3/4 thick and shaped just like a 1x8... the gaudy woddgrain look of some of the cpvc leaves some to question but the better 18' cpvc available at lumber yards has a low profile wood grain texture that does not stand out and look totally fake.

Also, I always install column base wraps 1/4" up off of the concrete or 1/8" off of the high side of porch slope - pre-build 3 sides first and install the last fourth side as it sits on the column and use a torpedo level to get it all level. that is the problem with the base wraps in question- they are touching the concrete and wicking moisture directing that moisture to the surrounding nails which do not seem to be galvanized as apparent from the rust. those wraps could be cedar too and having an adverse effect on the nails. maybe an easy fix is to cut the bottoms of the wraps up 1/4" inch away from the concrete and stop the wicking from occurring and then sand and prime the rust spot, once the water stops wicking up the rust should stop as well if you can get rid of what is showing now....
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:34 AM   #21
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whoever said earlier that cpvc lumber is not advised has not worked with it... I've put up or down cpvc column base wraps that looked like they needed to be on the best million dollar homes they looked so good . after painted you cannot tell at all that they are not wood, it is 3/4 thick and shaped just like a 1x8... the gaudy woddgrain look of some of the cpvc leaves some to question but the better 18' cpvc available at lumber yards has a low profile wood grain texture that does not stand out and look totally fake.

Also, I always install column base wraps 1/4" up off of the concrete or 1/8" off of the high side of porch slope - pre-build 3 sides first and install the last fourth side as it sits on the column and use a torpedo level to get it all level. that is the problem with the base wraps in question- they are touching the concrete and wicking moisture directing that moisture to the surrounding nails which do not seem to be galvanized as apparent from the rust. those wraps could be cedar too and having an adverse effect on the nails. maybe an easy fix is to cut the bottoms of the wraps up 1/4" inch away from the concrete and stop the wicking from occurring and then sand and prime the rust spot, once the water stops wicking up the rust should stop as well if you can get rid of what is showing now....
The columns are 1/4 in off of the ground. Its the rain that hits it directly.

I believe this is latex paint on my columns with the bright finish finishing nails,the others have good suggestions,but if the nails are really corroded and swollen, I doubt if I will be able to countersink them,sand ,seal and repaint. Not sure what to do honestly.
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:05 AM   #22
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the first pic is not eye level but that is certainly not a full 1/4" off of the cement. there would be splash up but with a full 1/4" or even 3/8" there would be air space to dry the underside of the wrap before it soaks up through to reach the nails IMO. bright nails will certainly rust, do as others suggest and use a nail punch to get the nails deeper from the surface of the wrap and then putty the left over holes with painters putty.
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:09 AM   #23
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Here's a thought. I have a tube of Loctite epoxy putty. It states that it can adhere to wood, it turns off white and its paintable/sandable
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:12 AM   #24
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the first pic is not eye level but that is certainly not a full 1/4" off of the cement. there would be splash up but with a full 1/4" or even 3/8" there would be air space to dry the underside of the wrap before it soaks up through to reach the nails IMO. bright nails will certainly rust, do as others suggest and use a nail punch to get the nails deeper from the surface of the wrap and then putty the left over holes with painters putty.
I'm not comfortable with the nail punch because I'm not sure shat will happen afterwards if its done incorrectly or if something is loose. The epoxy putty seems like a good idea. It can just cover it up.
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:16 AM   #25
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I'm not comfortable with the nail punch because I'm not sure shat will happen afterwards if its done incorrectly or if something is loose. The epoxy putty seems like a good idea. It can just cover it up.

you want to dig into the nail insertion point with the tip of a knife or something similar to remove any filling that is there now and actually be able to see the nail head. after that you can punch the nail head to get it driven in deeper,(can even use another nail as a nail punch) not to much and then you are ready for new putty. you can find a small thing of painters putty at the hardware store( recommended tried and tru))
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:22 AM   #26
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you want to dig into the nail insertion point with the tip of a knife or something similar to remove any filling that is there now and actually be able to see the nail head. after that you can punch the nail head to get it driven in deeper,(can even use another nail as a nail punch) not to much and then you are ready for new putty. you can find a small thing of painters putty at the hardware store( recommended tried and tru))
Painters putty / epoxy putty. Any difference?
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:45 AM   #27
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Painters putty / epoxy putty. Any difference?

painters putty is the norm, that is the big difference- not sure if what you have is paintable,you would need to read the label. painters putty is 3 to 5$ at the hardware store, I've even used window glazing as putty
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:00 PM   #28
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painters putty is the norm, that is the big difference- not sure if what you have is paintable,you would need to read the label. painters putty is 3 to 5$ at the hardware store, I've even used window glazing as putty
Yes this stuff says its both sandable and paintable. What's the worst case if I add the putty and do nothing with the nails. I ask only because I don't want to mess anything up inside. Who knows what's inside and if I start pounding something in I may create another problem.
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:09 PM   #29
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you want the nail deeper into the wood to resist the rust better. if the nail is at the surface now then a few taps with the punch will not harm a thing-you've got 3/4" material to work with. it would be better to remove the bright nails and replace with an exterior nail but that is way more challenging than putty and paint though if the wood keeps wicking moisture then even down the road the rust will show back up from the nail rusting internally and bleeding outward through the putty and paint. hence the importance of rust resistance nails used outside...
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:17 PM   #30
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you want the nail deeper into the wood to resist the rust better. if the nail is at the surface now then a few taps with the punch will not harm a thing-you've got 3/4" material to work with. it would be better to remove the bright nails and replace with an exterior nail but that is way more challenging than putty and paint though if the wood keeps wicking moisture then even down the road the rust will show back up from the nail rusting internally and bleeding outward through the putty and paint. hence the importance of rust resistance nails used outside...
OK. So any way you look at it. Punching in the nails is a must. What if I can't see some of the nails?

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