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-   -   Rough opening for door only 80 1/2" (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/rough-opening-door-only-80-1-2-a-167873/)

TomU 12-31-2012 12:19 PM

Rough opening for door only 80 1/2"
 
I have a door underneath some duct work that I had to box in, but the height of the rough opening is only 80 1/2" high. I was planning on installing a prehung door (this design to match the rest of my home), but on the website it states that the rough opening should be 82" tall. Now I was thinking, maybe I can just trim off the frame on the bottom. Or can I not use pre-hung doors in this case? Or would I have to custom-order a 78" door instead?

mae-ling 12-31-2012 12:58 PM

You should be able to trim off the bottom, but the door will look a little different especially if it is near other doors.
Also depends how much is at the bottom before any designs start.

funfool 12-31-2012 01:06 PM

Yes
No
Maybe

You can use pre hung doors and cut them down, is done all the time. What matters is the style and quality of doors.
You are talking cutting 1 1/2" off bottom of door, some hollow core interior doors only have a 1 1/2" solid wood piece on the bottom. I recently seen one with only 3/4" on bottom.
When you cut this much out , now will need to rebuild and add some support into the bottom of the hollow core door. You basically destroyed the integrity of your new door, but can be repaired.

If you have a six panel door, order it in solid wood, you now have a choice to stain or paint to match your other doors ... could cut 3" off rhe bottom and not hurt it.

woodworkbykirk 12-31-2012 02:39 PM

your right.. almost all prehung and hollow core doors from bigbox stores now do only have a 3/4" filler strip on the bottom and at hte top.. not only are they more prone to being broken but theres less meat to pin to if you have to cut down the door... if you have baseboard door stops installed the stopper can easily punch through the door

for this reason i only install solid doors on the homes i trim unless the door is for a linen closet or a side room in a basement.. also with solid doors they dont warp as easily and the main reason, they help cut down on sound transfer

carpdad 12-31-2012 08:46 PM

If you cut too much from bottom, it changes door knob height..a small point.
Depends a lot on your finish floor. It changes available height. Recommended rough opening is for having plenty of room for adjusting to uneven floor, uneven framing, having to shim, etc. You don't actually need 82". Even 1/8 space from floor to door is fine as long as the door opens. You don't even need top jamb. You definitely do not need a header, even a 2x4 on its side. If your finish ceiling/duct cover does not call for a trim detail, I would think about getting rid of the top jamb. If you want a trim around the door, cut the door from both bottom and top-whatever you need, reposition the top jamb and use it to nail the strip of trim.
I would try to keep the finish door opening to 80".

mae-ling 12-31-2012 09:53 PM

Good point. YOu do not need a top header or even 2x4. Just use the top door jamb there.

Missouri Bound 12-31-2012 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk (Post 1083434)
your right.. almost all prehung and hollow core doors from bigbox stores now do only have a 3/4" filler strip on the bottom and at hte top.. not only are they more prone to being broken but theres less meat to pin to if you have to cut down the door... if you have baseboard door stops installed the stopper can easily punch through the door

I've cut down a lot of doors and merely ripped a piece of 2X to size and made a new strip at the bottom. A table saw is the only tool required.:yes:

woodworkbykirk 01-01-2013 12:16 AM

ive done this hundreds of times but the glue joint created doesnt hold for long due to how the veneer cant absorb the new glue due to the original glue filling its pores..

as for the lockset, your better off building your own jamb and using a blank door so you can set the door knob at the correct height

scottktmrider 01-01-2013 01:42 PM

I usually take the filler piece that i cut off the door and peal the venear off and glue and nail i back in ,no need to rip another piece.

Missouri Bound 01-01-2013 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk (Post 1083729)
ive done this hundreds of times but the glue joint created doesnt hold for long due to how the veneer cant absorb the new glue due to the original glue filling its pores..

:eek: That really doesn't make any sense, at least to me. Where you are putting the new filler is in an area that wasn't previously glued. Proper glue coverage and clamping and I can't see it going anywhere.:whistling2:

woodworkbykirk 01-01-2013 05:13 PM

how doesnt it make sense. the veneer of hollow core doors arent very thick when the door is made they load it with glue .. when you put in the filler strip the glue doesnt bond to the inside of the veneer as it would to fresh wood.. eventually the glue joint of the filler strip fails no matter how good a clamp job is done. there is a reason high end guys dont use hollow cores.. their junk and its just a call back waiting to happen.. same as installing bifold doors yer

TomU 01-01-2013 05:36 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Thanks for all the answers so far. Sounds like cutting off the door on the bottom might not be the best idea.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mae-ling (Post 1083684)
Good point. YOu do not need a top header or even 2x4. Just use the top door jamb there.

I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean. Take a look at the picture I took (excuse my artistic "skills"). Right now the rough opening is actually 82" inches, but once drywall is hung on the ceiling, the drywall will be 1/2" below the rough opening. I didn't actually think about this when I framed it. But even if I had thought about it, I would have not been able to frame the ceiling any higher. I assumed that I'll have to at least add a 2x4 to the top of the rough opening, so that it is lower than the drywall. Or am I wrong? Can you maybe elaborate?

Quote:

Originally Posted by carpdad (Post 1083654)
Depends a lot on your finish floor. It changes available height. Recommended rough opening is for having plenty of room for adjusting to uneven floor, uneven framing, having to shim, etc. You don't actually need 82". Even 1/8 space from floor to door is fine as long as the door opens.

It'll be carpet. I just checked the framing, it is quite precise. The opening on both sides is exactly 82" right now (or 80 1/2" if I add a 2x4 to the top). I checked the floor where the door is going to open to, and it is pretty much flat, maybe 1/16" less clearance when the door is all opened.

Quote:

Originally Posted by carpdad (Post 1083654)
You don't even need top jamb. You definitely do not need a header, even a 2x4 on its side.

I assume this is what mae-ling was referring to? I guess I don't quite understand what this means. Looking at the picture I took, do I have a header?

Quote:

Originally Posted by carpdad (Post 1083654)
If your finish ceiling/duct cover does not call for a trim detail, I would think about getting rid of the top jamb. If you want a trim around the door, cut the door from both bottom and top-whatever you need, reposition the top jamb and use it to nail the strip of trim.
I would try to keep the finish door opening to 80".

Only the door calls for a trim, but obviously I'll have to skip the one on the top, or at least it will be very minimal.

mae-ling 01-01-2013 05:53 PM

Do not add the 2x4 (red lines) to the top. Drywall through it then install door.

TomU 01-01-2013 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mae-ling (Post 1084133)
Do not add the 2x4 (red lines) to the top. Drywall through it then install door.

Oh ok, so the top jamb would then go directly onto the drywall, so i only lose 1/2" instead of 1 1/2". I guess, getting a regular cheap 80" hollow core door is going to work after all. With minimal or no cutting.

kwikfishron 01-01-2013 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomU (Post 1084125)
only the door calls for a trim, but obviously I'll have to skip the one on the top, or at least it will be very minimal.

Looks like it will work to me. Improvising in basements that weren't designed to be finished living space is pretty common.


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